please help...ac problems
please help...ac problems no not on my car but the gf's truck..her ac clutch is shot.. its on a 93 chevy pickup fullsize..it is grinding severly and to the point where the bearing is coming apart..is this diffiicult to replace? i have never done it before..if there is any type of special tool i will need or any certain ways i need to set up the clutch or adjust it i would appreciate it.. i need to get it going tmomorrow...i work tonite so i cant really even look at it..i just popped the hood and saw what the problem was..i really dont want to replace the whole thing due to it still has the old r12 and dont want to switch it over yet..still blows damn cold...
thanks a lot guys
matt
thanks a lot guys
matt
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 315
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From: Baton Rouge,LA
You will need a puller/press , and a feeler gauge.
Its easy to change, but you better make sure the compressor didnt lock up and cause the clutch to go out.
Its easy to change, but you better make sure the compressor didnt lock up and cause the clutch to go out.
that link is for a seal service kit..i wonder if oreillys rents the puller..someone told me it is similar to pulling a power steering pump pulley removal.Where could i get teh specs for the air gap for the clutch? would the shaft be able to be turned with your hand to test to see if its locked up? it will still turn if you start the truck but you can tell its fixing to lock up..i can see the bearing coming apart...i have been having a few issues with blower motor and electrical system..i think the coil might have shorted out...is the clutch and coil a seperate piece or one unit? sorry ive never had to mess with one before..ive never had one go out before. 
an a/c compressor is a funny thing, if it's making alot of noise, you can usually just put a bit more freon in it and it will stop. we usually just run them untill they completly die. if it's making noise and still cooling well, the compressor can still be fried. when the one in my car went, it cooled less and less, but when we hooked the guages to it, it had PERFECT pressures with a full charge! turned out there was about 2 lbs of aluminum shavings in the liquidline screen at the firewall 
does it stop making noise when you turn the a/c on?
does it stop making noise when you turn the a/c on?
10 Second Club
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 315
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From: Baton Rouge,LA
Originally Posted by redbandit98
that link is for a seal service kit..
The clutch assembly is 3 pieces, the coil, pully w/bearing, and hub. If its grinding, its not the coil. The coil acts as a magnet to pull the hub in to the pully.
You need to make sure the compressor is not locked up, see if you can turn the hub by hand, it should turn fairly easy. If is doesnt you will be wasting your time and money on a clutch and coil, because the compressor is bad.
If the compressor went out, it could cause the clutch to tear up.
Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
an a/c compressor is a funny thing, if it's making alot of noise, you can usually just put a bit more freon in it and it will stop. we usually just run them untill they completly die. if it's making noise and still cooling well, the compressor can still be fried. when the one in my car went, it cooled less and less, but when we hooked the guages to it, it had PERFECT pressures with a full charge! turned out there was about 2 lbs of aluminum shavings in the liquidline screen at the firewall
does it stop making noise when you turn the a/c on?
does it stop making noise when you turn the a/c on?
no i dont think you fully understand what is going on
you dont have to turn on the ac.. when you start the truck it sounds like someone has a 600lb box of marbles and is shaking the crap out of it!! the hub looks to be stuck out or something..i can turn the pulley with my hand..granted its not like i can just whir it around..but it does not require a whole lot of force..here are a few pics ...the last one is the compressor in my truck that is still working.. ..i got to get a few hours of sleep then i will get up and start working on it..thanks again guys
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alright bought me a puller/installer from the auto store..got the hub and clutch off.. used the puller to get the hub off..3 jaw for the clutch..now the only thing left is the coil..does this baby come off the shaft as well? i had to use a 3 jaw puller to get the clutch assembly off after i took the snap ring out..just seems like the coil doesnt want to budge...didnt know if it was somehow bolted to the housing...any help..
matt
matt
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sorry been away for a while..i got everything back together but have yet to engange the clutch..i wanted to make sure of the clutch gap before i engaged it..should it be .030? i had to go buy some feeler guauges since i seemed to have missplaced mine 
...upon removal i found that the coil had shorted out and thats what caused my problems....
matt
...upon removal i found that the coil had shorted out and thats what caused my problems....matt
Those old A-4 compressors are prolly goin for pretty cheap now-a -days at the junk yard. That's would have been the easy route & prlly cheaper than a hub/pulley kit.
Another is motormite/dormain is making A/C idler pullies to take place of failed compressors on certain popular aplications.
Another is motormite/dormain is making A/C idler pullies to take place of failed compressors on certain popular aplications.
i dont know after you have someone take the old stuff out and recover it..(if they even would) r12 is high as hell these days..always say its a crap shoot as to whether the compressor and rest of the system would take to the new stuff.. which is probably what they would want to do..if not then they might still charge me for r12 since its outrageoulsy high..this way i didnt have to break the seal i just repalaced the hub/coil/pulley... the other way i would have had to limp it to the shop for them to change it..(or illegally emptied it myself then had to pay $$$$ for new r12..) or find a shop that would recover what i had for me,but still $$$$ and pain..plus the truck wouldnt make it down the block withought locking up..i thought to myseflf i wonder if there is someone who makes a makeshfift pulley incase of emercencies..this is a good idea. still looking for the correct air gap to set on the clutch...i searched online and didnt come up with anything...might have to run to oreillys and see if it says it in a chilton..
thanks
matt
thanks
matt
10 Second Club
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 315
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From: Baton Rouge,LA
The clutch gap should be between .015 and .025. I looked it up in one of my old service manuals, I incorrectly stated .030. That is for the Ford compressors.
BTW, if you are looking for a replacement for R12, you can use Freeze 12, which is a direct replacement. It costs about $6-$8 a can, and is compatable with the same mineral oil used in R12 systems.
Or you could always retrofit it to R134, but you will have to flush the entire system and use PAG oil or Ester oil.
BTW, if you are looking for a replacement for R12, you can use Freeze 12, which is a direct replacement. It costs about $6-$8 a can, and is compatable with the same mineral oil used in R12 systems.
Or you could always retrofit it to R134, but you will have to flush the entire system and use PAG oil or Ester oil.