I have a 99 TA and I just jacked my car up for the winter. While under it, I noticed that one pipe is flattened. What is this from? Did it come factory like this? Also, What does this pipe do?

Thanks,
Chris

 

all stock y pipe on the drivers side is flatten from factory.I guess its for more clearance even though it hangs way down.I am assuming you havent changed y pipe

 

yea the stockers are like that..

some aftermarket ones like the Hooker Y pipe have some of that too

 

To answer your question, no that shouldn't be flat, but, that's how GM made them. It's for ground/floor board clearance.

 

 

That flat pipe doesn't flow nearly as bad as some people beleive. Most that change only the Y-pipe with something like the SLP fully round replacement see almost no gains at all.

 

kooks ORY has a little flattened area as well. not real worried about it....thats a pretty big pipe anyhow.

 

NO YOU GUYS ARE WRONG!!! You must have crushed it somehow...

 

i read a post somewhere that a guy put on an aftermarket y pipe with cats and didnt gain any hp and lost torque. i also read somewhere that someone did a test on the stock -driverside oval- gm y pipe vs. an aftermarket y pipe that wasnt oval and that believe it or not gm designed it so it would flow the same amount of air through the pipe. although they did flatten the pipe out they sized it correctly to match the passenger side pipe

 

After owning 3 LS1 F-bodies (two I bought brand new), I am 1000% sure that it came that way (flat/oval) stock. All mine did.

 

I beleive that. I've seen many people post no gains at all just changing the Y-pipe with something like the SLP unit.....

 

Lol I was kidding...

 

LOL, Sorry, I had just woke up. It was too early for humor to even occur to me.

 

RPM, how do you like your SLP sfc's? I've been thinkin about gettin a set since my plans warrant that kind of bracing. LMK!

 

I love 'em!! The difference is night & day, IMO, most noticeably when going over bumps or imperfections in the road. The car handles the contours of the road as one solid unit rather than flexing so much. Also, drastically reduced body flex going into corners/curves at speed. Not to mention the more solid feel to launching.

This is the second set I've owned. I had them for 4 years on my WS6 and now I've got them on my Z28. The older units were powdercoated in gloss black and the new ones are a more heavy duty coating in a dull black. The new ones don't scratch as easy.

They are pretty heavy, but the extra bracing is worth it IMO. I use to have the standard 2-point weld in units on my old Formula and I didn't notice nearly as much improvement with those as with these SLP 3-point bolt-ins.

Simple install, sometimes you have to play with them to get all the bolt holes lined up though. I've never had them come loose or require any sort of re-tightening. What I did was use extra washers starting with a larger size than SLP provided (on the SFC mounting plate side) and worked down to a size just a tad larger than the bolt head (on the bolt side) making a pyramid that allowed for much tigher torquing of the bolts without the washers giving in. I was able to torque them enough using a massive breaker bar that the mounting plates actually compressed and matted to the contours of the car's subframe. Basically, they are one with the car. This over-torquing meathod is ONLY for the front and rear mounting points though, do NOT try it with the center tunnel brace bolts, you will strip the stock threads easially. Only re-tighten the center brace bolts as tight as they were stock.

Hope that helps.

 

Hmm, I have a Spohn chassis mounted tq arm I'm gonna install this week that will need to utilize those tunnel brace mount spots as well. Looks like it will be quite a well braced system if it works out. Will probably require a longer bolt tho. Thanks RPM!! I think I've made up my mind

 

Yeah you will most likely need longer bolts then. Just adding the SFCs is about all those bolts can take before being too short to grab the threads.

Glad I could help.