Rear end or headers?
#1
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Rear end or headers?
So correct me if I am wrong, but I need to do headers before I do H/C and blower right? So if that is true, I am deciding between headers and a rear. Most of my races are from a roll so I want some more top end. I know I could get a rear w/3.73's but I would like the added power of the headers and a H/C package. Please help!!
#2
Full exhaust is a must before h/c and definately a blower. Stock exhaust is crappy. Without headers it'll be a huge chokehold on your power. Typically it's gears, full bolt ons, tires, then major stuff.
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I am at the same point also. But im kinda stuck now. I bought tires first thing and now i am addicted to them. There is no way ill give them up. So i have to do a rear-end before i do anymore power mods. I think i am also gonna be going with the 3.73's. I will probably do cammed and a 150 shot. But for now i have to save up for the rear-end. I also have to save up for a better tranny. I need one that can take the pounding im gonna be putting on it. But to answer your question. If its not your daily driver, i would do as i did and get tires, then do a rear-end after that. The tires are so much fun.
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Headers a must !!
Listen my car an 02 T/A had just a lid and loudmouth and dynoed 317 at the rear then Hooker L/T,s and ORY and bam !!! 342 at the rear with 362 TQ I would never mess with the stock rear end it is a waste of time the rear is the weakest point in our cars any way. I now have a cam and the next big purchase for me is a 12 bolt 10 times stronger. trust me the power you pick up from headers will chane your car forever...
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Actualy you'll notice the headers more since you have a 6-speed car with 3.42 ratio and 3.73 gears are only a slight increase but If you went with 4.10's you would really feel the differance but you sacrifice top end. Oh and traction will be an issue...
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#9
i would get headers for myself, just to open up that v8, then worry about the rear end. i'll be getting either 3.73's or 4.10's, as i am not TOO concernced for top end, because i won't be doing over 130 mph. how much faster does a 4.10 accelerate than a 3.73?
i will be getting headers, y pipe, gears, then new k member, strut bar, sway bar, wheels/tires, hood, and hatch.
i will be getting headers, y pipe, gears, then new k member, strut bar, sway bar, wheels/tires, hood, and hatch.
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I vote for the rear. There's no use in making any power if the rear can't handle what your giving it. I know its hard to save $2000-2800 for a rear ,when you can get more things buying other stuff with that money. You'll see what I'm taking about after you start making some real power.You'll eat up the 10bolt up with that H/C & blower.
#11
i don't think gears are 2000?
if he wants a FULL rear end, yeah, but i think he just wants gears? i'll probably get a FULL rear end when i get mine, including axls etc.
if he wants a FULL rear end, yeah, but i think he just wants gears? i'll probably get a FULL rear end when i get mine, including axls etc.
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Trust me, as you can tell by my mods DO NOT WASTE MONEY ON THE STOCK REAR. Seriously, if you want to make your car faster don't waste money on the stock one, it is up to you about the rear or go fast mods, if you don't go to the track and don't put slicks on it you should be fine, but if you are considering going to the track after you are faster save up and get a 12bolt,9-inch, or 8.8 conversion. You can find some great deals on here for used rears, my first one was 1300 and I picked it up, second was 1600 and I picked it up, the reason I got two is I sold the first for 1600.....
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Originally Posted by Blue02Ws6
Trust me, as you can tell by my mods DO NOT WASTE MONEY ON THE STOCK REAR. Seriously, if you want to make your car faster don't waste money on the stock one, it is up to you about the rear or go fast mods, if you don't go to the track and don't put slicks on it you should be fine, but if you are considering going to the track after you are faster save up and get a 12bolt,9-inch, or 8.8 conversion. You can find some great deals on here for used rears, my first one was 1300 and I picked it up, second was 1600 and I picked it up, the reason I got two is I sold the first for 1600.....
mine went with headers he averages like 12.8 with headers while
I only average 13.2 with 3.73 gears.
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I asked basically this same question a few weeks ago. The general consensus was to get at least all the boltons done before getting a new rearend. Of course, you would be taking a chance of the rear breaking, but as long as you don't race it much, it will probably be fine.
I'm getting QTP headers, Lane's duals (I'll take them under the axle), probably some Koni SA shocks, Ported TB, HPTuners and Wideband, and a few appearance things. The total for all of this is a little more than what a new rearend runs, but I think I'll enjoy it a lot more. Then I'll save up some more and get the rearend next year probably.
Unless you drag race the car on at least drag radials somewhat frequently, I would just get the headers and the rest of the boltons. JMO and of others that posted in my thread.
I'm getting QTP headers, Lane's duals (I'll take them under the axle), probably some Koni SA shocks, Ported TB, HPTuners and Wideband, and a few appearance things. The total for all of this is a little more than what a new rearend runs, but I think I'll enjoy it a lot more. Then I'll save up some more and get the rearend next year probably.
Unless you drag race the car on at least drag radials somewhat frequently, I would just get the headers and the rest of the boltons. JMO and of others that posted in my thread.
#15
a safe way but timely process... build your car from the back to the front... rearend/suspension/tranny/motor... just a suggestion. I am going from one end to the other and the middle and then the front and then the back... im all over the place, but a safe way to build a car is from the back to the front!
Goodluck and keep us updated!
Goodluck and keep us updated!