Post header install blues...lend me your brains!
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 274
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From: Hilton Head. SC
Post header install blues...lend me your brains! So the story goes as this...New Kooks LT and a catted Y with a Corsa Cat back...installed, 1st trip up, the Y pipe was rattling, well the guy fixed that. Now the Y ipe is banging hard on hard acceleration and the SES light came on. So I've read about these problems...common I guess. HE said that installing a Solid Transmission mount would cure the hard accel bang. Anybody try this yet? What is this thing supposed to do....is it like a bracket that supports the pipe? And am I going to need to replace to new O2 sims to get rid of the SES light, aor are there other reasons that it may be tripping codes. So do I buy a hypertech to fix this, or just yank some fuses and rese the computer, or delete some codes.....Confused...but if someone has the answers, please advise me in the right direction. Need that clank fixed and the SES to just go away!
Thanks
Thanks
Well, the SES light is cause your y-pipe is banging. Your computer thinks the engine is knocking and pulls timing causing you to misfire. That is why your ses light is on. The best way to fix the y-pipe banging is to replace it with true duals 
Seriously though, I had the Kooks ORY and I couldn't get rid of the banging if my life depended on it. I just replaced the whole setup with TSP true duals and now I have no banging at all.
Solid trans mount won't solve anything. You'll need solid motor mounts to HELP out. You see, a torque is applied at the motor mounts every time you go WOT and it pulls the y-pipe up against the floor board. The solid motor mount will absorb the torque on the motor and your banging will be reduced/go away.
The only problem with solid motor mounts is: If you think you have rattles now, just wait till your teeth chatter with solid mounts.
Some people have had limited success with the mufflex y-pipe hanger also. Do a search for that.
One guy on here also welded an old comp valve spring between the y-pipe and the floor board and that cured his banging.
Good luck
Seriously though, I had the Kooks ORY and I couldn't get rid of the banging if my life depended on it. I just replaced the whole setup with TSP true duals and now I have no banging at all.
Solid trans mount won't solve anything. You'll need solid motor mounts to HELP out. You see, a torque is applied at the motor mounts every time you go WOT and it pulls the y-pipe up against the floor board. The solid motor mount will absorb the torque on the motor and your banging will be reduced/go away.
The only problem with solid motor mounts is: If you think you have rattles now, just wait till your teeth chatter with solid mounts.
Some people have had limited success with the mufflex y-pipe hanger also. Do a search for that.
One guy on here also welded an old comp valve spring between the y-pipe and the floor board and that cured his banging.
Good luck
Originally Posted by kpowr82
Well, the SES light is cause your y-pipe is banging. Your computer thinks the engine is knocking and pulls timing causing you to misfire. That is why your ses light is on. The best way to fix the y-pipe banging is to replace it with true duals
Seriously though, I had the Kooks ORY and I couldn't get rid of the banging if my life depended on it. I just replaced the whole setup with TSP true duals and now I have no banging at all.
Solid trans mount won't solve anything. You'll need solid motor mounts to HELP out. You see, a torque is applied at the motor mounts every time you go WOT and it pulls the y-pipe up against the floor board. The solid motor mount will absorb the torque on the motor and your banging will be reduced/go away.
The only problem with solid motor mounts is: If you think you have rattles now, just wait till your teeth chatter with solid mounts.
Some people have had limited success with the mufflex y-pipe hanger also. Do a search for that.
One guy on here also welded an old comp valve spring between the y-pipe and the floor board and that cured his banging.
Good luck
Seriously though, I had the Kooks ORY and I couldn't get rid of the banging if my life depended on it. I just replaced the whole setup with TSP true duals and now I have no banging at all.
Solid trans mount won't solve anything. You'll need solid motor mounts to HELP out. You see, a torque is applied at the motor mounts every time you go WOT and it pulls the y-pipe up against the floor board. The solid motor mount will absorb the torque on the motor and your banging will be reduced/go away.
The only problem with solid motor mounts is: If you think you have rattles now, just wait till your teeth chatter with solid mounts.
Some people have had limited success with the mufflex y-pipe hanger also. Do a search for that.
One guy on here also welded an old comp valve spring between the y-pipe and the floor board and that cured his banging.
Good luck
Solid mounts-for racing, not the street. It puts more stress in the frame and body. In the chevelle, I broke a TH350 trans almost in half, and the frame is cracking.
And the valve spring- I was told by Tyson of Performance Auto Fabrication, that that is not a good fix. He says the heat going into the spring will make the spring brittle and break.
I would go with a hanger, that looks like this ( Check attachment)
Find the spot that is banging the bottom of the car. Probably the area of y-pipe right under the driver. Loosen all the clamps a little bit, get a buddy to pry the hell out of the y-pipe down or hang from it while you tighten all the clamps back up. If you need to and can use a screw jack on one side and a pry bar on the other to tweak it. You can fix it without getting new mounts or whatever. I've done a few like this. Also had one that sort of fixed itself like someone mentioned above.
