rattling
Thread Starter
10 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,762
Likes: 0
From: Chicago SW Burbs
rattling and another question Hey guys. After I put on my LTs and ORY I hear a little rattle from under the car. I believe it might be the heat shields getting vibration from the headers. Has anyone else had this problem? If so did you guys take teh heat shields off to make it stop?
Also I took off the A.I.R. tubes and have the plates blocked off on my headers. Is this going to have any effects that I should know about? I read the sticky and the links do not work now. Can I delete the A.I.R. with a baisc PCM tune. I am getting that done on the 23rd.
Thanks.
Also I took off the A.I.R. tubes and have the plates blocked off on my headers. Is this going to have any effects that I should know about? I read the sticky and the links do not work now. Can I delete the A.I.R. with a baisc PCM tune. I am getting that done on the 23rd.
Thanks.
Last edited by SgtB; Mar 13, 2005 at 03:08 PM.
Thread Starter
10 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,762
Likes: 0
From: Chicago SW Burbs
Originally Posted by NviouSS
i had a rattle where my merge collector met with the I-pipe. i had it welded to fix the problem.
basic tune should take care of the AIR codes.
basic tune should take care of the AIR codes.
Trending Topics
yea.....no **** you're havin rattin problems bud!! 
you need to yank that air pump and the associated tubing out of the car, and then plug off the little vacuum line connection on to top right hand side of the intake. i forget where to find the best how-to to do this process, check out the how-to collection thread in the enthusiasts section.
you need to yank that air pump and the associated tubing out of the car, and then plug off the little vacuum line connection on to top right hand side of the intake. i forget where to find the best how-to to do this process, check out the how-to collection thread in the enthusiasts section.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
Thread Starter
10 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,762
Likes: 0
From: Chicago SW Burbs
Originally Posted by cyphur_traq
yea.....no **** you're havin rattin problems bud!!
you need to yank that air pump and the associated tubing out of the car, and then plug off the little vacuum line connection on to top right hand side of the intake. i forget where to find the best how-to to do this process, check out the how-to collection thread in the enthusiasts section.
you need to yank that air pump and the associated tubing out of the car, and then plug off the little vacuum line connection on to top right hand side of the intake. i forget where to find the best how-to to do this process, check out the how-to collection thread in the enthusiasts section.
Where is the AIR pump?
why would you want to leave 15lbs of dead weight on your car? 
yank it. it cleans up your engine bay and is weight savings. its easy to do, GM even designed an access panel right under the AIR pump to service it.....makes for easy removal. tuning it will turn it off yea....but won't stop it from flopping around in the engine bay.
BUT, since you said its under your car, try re-working how your y-pipe fits together and see what happens. many people have to fiddle with their setup before they finally get it where they need it to not rattle/bang. remove all the heat shields you can, they really don't serve a purpose other than to collect heat instead of the bottom of your car.
yank it. it cleans up your engine bay and is weight savings. its easy to do, GM even designed an access panel right under the AIR pump to service it.....makes for easy removal. tuning it will turn it off yea....but won't stop it from flopping around in the engine bay.
BUT, since you said its under your car, try re-working how your y-pipe fits together and see what happens. many people have to fiddle with their setup before they finally get it where they need it to not rattle/bang. remove all the heat shields you can, they really don't serve a purpose other than to collect heat instead of the bottom of your car.
Thread Starter
10 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,762
Likes: 0
From: Chicago SW Burbs
The AIR fitting on the passenger side header is 90 degrees off thats why I took them off. So I can take it off or leave it on and just plug it up with bolts. OK.
Most likely I will remove it then if its that easy to get off.
Most likely I will remove it then if its that easy to get off.
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 120
Likes: 1
From: SW MI
I had a rattling problem when I installed my SLP y-pipe and Hooker Catback. The source of the rattle turned out to be the connection between the y-pipe and I-pipe. I was still using the stock band clamp and I realized that even though it seemed tight, it wasn't crushing the I-pipe enough(probably because the stock one was slotted and the Hooker is solid). I resorted to tightening the clamp with a breaker bar and hoping I wouln't strip it out. That did the trick. I plan on replacing the stock clamp, but it hasn't loosened up yet. You can try this, but be prepared to buy a new/different clamp, that stock one sucks.
As for the AIR system, why would you want to leave it on
It's just excess weight, drag on the engine, and clutter in the engine compartment. You should be able to just unplug any electrical connections and block off any possible sources of vacuum leaks and have it removed in the tune. You probably need a smaller belt too - this may be a good time to do underdrive pulleys while you're at it! Lots of people have removed their AIR system, so there should be some good instructions/tips/parts list on the web somewhere. Good Luck.
As for the AIR system, why would you want to leave it on
It's just excess weight, drag on the engine, and clutter in the engine compartment. You should be able to just unplug any electrical connections and block off any possible sources of vacuum leaks and have it removed in the tune. You probably need a smaller belt too - this may be a good time to do underdrive pulleys while you're at it! Lots of people have removed their AIR system, so there should be some good instructions/tips/parts list on the web somewhere. Good Luck. Thread Starter
10 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,762
Likes: 0
From: Chicago SW Burbs
Originally Posted by peteZ
I had a rattling problem when I installed my SLP y-pipe and Hooker Catback. The source of the rattle turned out to be the connection between the y-pipe and I-pipe. I was still using the stock band clamp and I realized that even though it seemed tight, it wasn't crushing the I-pipe enough(probably because the stock one was slotted and the Hooker is solid). I resorted to tightening the clamp with a breaker bar and hoping I wouln't strip it out. That did the trick. I plan on replacing the stock clamp, but it hasn't loosened up yet. You can try this, but be prepared to buy a new/different clamp, that stock one sucks.
As for the AIR system, why would you want to leave it on It's just excess weight, drag on the engine, and clutter in the engine compartment. You should be able to just unplug any electrical connections and block off any possible sources of vacuum leaks and have it removed in the tune. You probably need a smaller belt too - this may be a good time to do underdrive pulleys while you're at it! Lots of people have removed their AIR system, so there should be some good instructions/tips/parts list on the web somewhere. Good Luck.
As for the AIR system, why would you want to leave it on
It's just excess weight, drag on the engine, and clutter in the engine compartment. You should be able to just unplug any electrical connections and block off any possible sources of vacuum leaks and have it removed in the tune. You probably need a smaller belt too - this may be a good time to do underdrive pulleys while you're at it! Lots of people have removed their AIR system, so there should be some good instructions/tips/parts list on the web somewhere. Good Luck.
Originally Posted by peteZ
You probably need a smaller belt too - this may be a good time to do underdrive pulleys while you're at it! Lots of people have removed their AIR system, so there should be some good instructions/tips/parts list on the web somewhere. Good Luck.
Thread Starter
10 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,762
Likes: 0
From: Chicago SW Burbs
Originally Posted by Keenov
You do not need a new belt after taking the AIR system out.