My header install experiance
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 318
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From: Orance County, CA
My header install experiance Well, the headers are finally done!
The install wasnt too bad, with the only REALLY hard part being getting the edelbrock shorties/cat off the drivers side. THe rest really was easy. The pacesetters slipped in with almost NO problem at all.
The key really was to get the car as high as possible. My jack had a max lift of 19" and that was enough, no need for 4x4 or 2x4, the jack was enough (barely...if the jack had jacked to say....18.5" it wouldnt be enough, but at 19" it was exactly right).
We even had time to do a plug swap (i killed all 4 spark plugs from the drivers side while trying to get the old header out). All theres left to do now is to get my stock Y and magnaflow off, and bolt on my TSP TDs!!
The install wasnt too bad, with the only REALLY hard part being getting the edelbrock shorties/cat off the drivers side. THe rest really was easy. The pacesetters slipped in with almost NO problem at all.
The key really was to get the car as high as possible. My jack had a max lift of 19" and that was enough, no need for 4x4 or 2x4, the jack was enough (barely...if the jack had jacked to say....18.5" it wouldnt be enough, but at 19" it was exactly right).
We even had time to do a plug swap (i killed all 4 spark plugs from the drivers side while trying to get the old header out). All theres left to do now is to get my stock Y and magnaflow off, and bolt on my TSP TDs!!
Header installs are not that bad. TSP install is not bad either. Be sure you have enough jacks to get the whole car up high enough to wiggle around under the car. Placing a jack under the xpipe helps to get the system up high. You are not lowered so you should have good clearance. I drilled through the area under the passenger seat and used big bolts from sears to attach the bullets to the rear frame. I needed an assistant to help me keep the bolt in the car from moving when I tightened the screw from under the car. I used locking washers on the screw and locking bolts. Use high temp. RTV sealant to help seal the pipes at each connection and then clamp down. I placed RTV around the circumference of male end of each pipe and them inserted it in the female end of the other pipe.
Get a cam and you will really hear some sound coming from those duals.
Get a cam and you will really hear some sound coming from those duals.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 318
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From: Orance County, CA
Originally Posted by shep28
Header installs are not that bad. TSP install is not bad either. Be sure you have enough jacks to get the whole car up high enough to wiggle around under the car. Placing a jack under the xpipe helps to get the system up high. You are not lowered so you should have good clearance.
Originally Posted by shep28
I drilled through the area under the passenger seat and used big bolts from sears to attach the bullets to the rear frame. I needed an assistant to help me keep the bolt in the car from moving when I tightened the screw from under the car. I used locking washers on the screw and locking bolts. Use high temp. RTV sealant to help seal the pipes at each connection and then clamp down. I placed RTV around the circumference of male end of each pipe and them inserted it in the female end of the other pipe.
Get a cam and you will really hear some sound coming from those duals.
Get a cam and you will really hear some sound coming from those duals.
I am lowered with a pro-kit and have tsp duals. The lowest part of the duals is the section behind the driver side header collector- duals meet the ridge below the top of a beer can when placed on the ground at this point.. I also bought an after market torque arm from summit racing equipment. I can't remember the brand. With my stock torque arm the duals hanged pretty low. I have good clearance now.
Drilling the bolt hole is no big deal. Some people use small screws. These will work their way out for sure. You could weld the hanger. I am always adding parts under the car, so I wanted to be able to take off the bullets in the future if need be.
Look, I was like you. First headers, then I installed intake, and then pulley. Then a cam!, and then the duals. I had no experiance. Just have the right tools and ask lots of questions on this site. I have saved thousands in labor costs doing all this myself.
just do it
Drilling the bolt hole is no big deal. Some people use small screws. These will work their way out for sure. You could weld the hanger. I am always adding parts under the car, so I wanted to be able to take off the bullets in the future if need be.
Look, I was like you. First headers, then I installed intake, and then pulley. Then a cam!, and then the duals. I had no experiance. Just have the right tools and ask lots of questions on this site. I have saved thousands in labor costs doing all this myself.
just do it
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
From: Orance County, CA
Originally Posted by shep28
Look, I was like you. First headers, then I installed intake, and then pulley. Then a cam!, and then the duals. I had no experiance. Just have the right tools and ask lots of questions on this site. I have saved thousands in labor costs doing all this myself.
just do it
just do it
But with the help from u guys and from one of my friends from this site, this job turned out to just be more tedious than difficult (we even knocked out a plug chage while we were at it).
Now Im sure I can do most any job that CAN BE DONE in a house garage!
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 318
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From: Orance County, CA
Originally Posted by macool68
how'd you go about clearing the shorty and cat? top? bottom? did you jack the motor?
