Overheating! HELP needed ASAP
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Overheating! HELP needed ASAP
Hey guys. The car is overheating. I pulled over to check it out and the radiator was bone dry while the reservoir is full to the top. Is this the t-stat not funtioning properly?
We refilled the radiator and started the car and the overflow bottle would just overflow. All the lines including the one from the reservoir to the radiator are completely dry inside.
After we filled it I limped it home since it was only a couple blocks away and now the coolant looks to be normal levels in the reservoir and the temps stayed fine.
The fans were and are working properly. Even after I shut the car down the fans remained on for a few minutes.
Help is greatly appreciated.
Brandon
We refilled the radiator and started the car and the overflow bottle would just overflow. All the lines including the one from the reservoir to the radiator are completely dry inside.
After we filled it I limped it home since it was only a couple blocks away and now the coolant looks to be normal levels in the reservoir and the temps stayed fine.
The fans were and are working properly. Even after I shut the car down the fans remained on for a few minutes.
Help is greatly appreciated.
Brandon
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Oh and there are no leaks to be found aroudn the water pump. Only place where i am losing coolant is where it is overflowing the reservoir. Also when I pulled the car over the cap on the radiator was very loose. I am 99% sure it wasnt like this before the temps got up.
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Radiator cap isnt going to cause the reservoir to fill up while the car is running. Its not leaking from there either.
I just ran to Honda central(Pep-Boys) and bought a new stat. Hopefully this is the solution.
I just ran to Honda central(Pep-Boys) and bought a new stat. Hopefully this is the solution.
Last edited by BrandonSS; 04-18-2005 at 09:22 PM.
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Pulled the old stat and the gasket up inside is torn(not the one between the pump and stat). Half remains on the inside(motor side), half is on the outside(inside the spout... radiator side). I think this was causing a binding/failure problem that was sort of intermittent depending on where everything was sitting at the time of it trying to open. At least I hope.
Thanks for the help.... Glad to see the forum flooded with "what is the best ____?____" questions that are getting a thousand views and replies while a real problem isnt viewed near as much and only one person makes an attempt to help. Not directed at anyone that wasnt online. Just sucks and of course, some of the evenings frustration coming out.
Thanks Grimes.
Thanks for the help.... Glad to see the forum flooded with "what is the best ____?____" questions that are getting a thousand views and replies while a real problem isnt viewed near as much and only one person makes an attempt to help. Not directed at anyone that wasnt online. Just sucks and of course, some of the evenings frustration coming out.
Thanks Grimes.
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Did you remove that little vent hose? There is a real small pipe that goes from head to head in front of motor behind TB. You have to remove (pull the rubber hose off at one end) it to let out any air pockets as you fill radiator. Or it will do just what it is doing now. Good luck. As you fill watch that little hose and when you see the water come out your OK.
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Yup. I bled the system by pulling the coolant line off of the driver side TB where it goes into the metal line. Filled until a drop into the radiator would make a drop at the line that was off which is the highest point in the system.
As per InstallUniveristy.com instructions
As per InstallUniveristy.com instructions
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So it's figured out then ?
I was going to guess that possibly the hoses at the pass top of the rad are swapped ? TB line goes under overflow line... Overflow line should be closest to rad cap.
A stuck (closed) thermo would just keep the same coolant flowing inside the block and not let it pass into the rad.
Cheers,
Bad30th
I was going to guess that possibly the hoses at the pass top of the rad are swapped ? TB line goes under overflow line... Overflow line should be closest to rad cap.
A stuck (closed) thermo would just keep the same coolant flowing inside the block and not let it pass into the rad.
Cheers,
Bad30th