pulley problem
pulley problem I have had a problem with my Crank pully backing out. It has destroyed my belts 2 times now. I've impacted the bolt down and torqued it down multiple times now. This all started after my last cam swap. Yesterday it happened again, so i started calling around and trying to figure out what the deal is. I finally got an answer from HPE, that the bolt is supposed to be replaced after each removal. (I didnt know this). So that should be an ez fix then. My car is in my apartment parking lot, so i have to do the best i can right here for now. I tried tightening the old bolt and it wont move the pully in at all. I cant move it for some reason... I have moved my hand everytime before. So I installed the new bolt and tried it. I was able to move this one. The pully pushed its way further back in to the crank. The only thing I'm not sure on now is if the pully went far enough. Every time before it seems like i was able to go further, but maybe it wasnt out as far this time. I never actually looked to find out. So my question is how far does the pully go it. If you are looking from under the car, how much of the pulley's shaft can you still see. I think it's about a 1/4 of an inch that I can still see. Does anyone have any under car pics, so i can check? I just want to make sure its ok.. Then I'll drive it somewhere to have any slack impacted.
botton out pulley flush with end of crank with old bolt or pull to 240#,install new bolt torque to 37 lb then pull another 120 degrees if you do not have a compass to get the right degrees ( stop and think ) mark the bolt at 180 degrees and at 90 degrees then mark 1/2 between the two marks which i think will be about 135 degrees so you may go eather 140 degrees or 120 degrees from there ,also i do not like to pull much on the inside threads of the crank I get two bolts with same thread as crank weld them head to head screw it tight into crank then slide a socket over then ( one that just go inside of pulley to align pulley) then use a big washer and nut on the free end of welded unit to pull pulley onto crank this way is easy on the inside threads of crank I also like to change the front seal while pulley is off , to stop crank from turning, if m/6 put in 4-5 gear. if a/4 make a "tool" to insert in the 2-3 in hole in bottom of bellhouseing, insert into teeth on flywheel
make tool from 1/4 x 2 x 12 flat bar notch in side of tool will hold tool in hole
ps drawing do not show up correct > should be about 2in wide over all 12 ins , sorry I will learn how to draw it correct when I have time , Johnny
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make tool from 1/4 x 2 x 12 flat bar notch in side of tool will hold tool in hole
ps drawing do not show up correct > should be about 2in wide over all 12 ins , sorry I will learn how to draw it correct when I have time , Johnny
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Last edited by SS SLP2; Apr 22, 2005 at 03:10 PM.
Use an ARP bolt, and you wont need torque yield, I dont have the part # handy, its specifcally for the ls1 crank though.
Here's a good site for the pulley install procedure, and other stuff too. The longer crank bolt is worth the money getting that sucker on. Go to step four of cam install page.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?ar...23&printable=y
Here's a good site for the pulley install procedure, and other stuff too. The longer crank bolt is worth the money getting that sucker on. Go to step four of cam install page.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?ar...23&printable=y
