magnanpi

So i had somebody who i think knows about f-bodys look at my car. (owns a 89 Z28 with a 400 small block.)

My car has been running like **** lately....it threw 9 codes. 3 im not worried about but the others i am. i got a one for the EGR but i dont remember the exact code. it was at autozone. the other 5 were for running lean. But why did i get 5 different codes? Does that mean 5 cylinders are running lean?? (thats what he says) He says i need new coil packs since im having trouble starting as well (idles shitty sometimes also). He says if i run lean for two long i will burn the rings or something in my pistons and bye bye engine.

Also he says i need a new EGR valve. Went i went to the dealer when i first bought it, they said whoever last messed with it installed it wrong. They said they fixed it and it ran better....and it did....for about 30 minutes after i left the dealership, then it idled like **** again. But if you listen its hissing from the top of the EGR valve/hose meets the MAF area. Sounds like a hose sprating water in the garden. HISSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS. Do i really need a new valve? EGR sucks anyways.

Btw i have a vaacum leak. Im missing one of the intake manifold plenum bolts (came that way) . On the passenger side, closest to the front of the engine. (dont know what cylinder that is.)

Cliff Notes- Starts most of the time; says i need tune up/ coil packs
- 5 codes for running lean, EGR code, EGR hisses like no tommorow.

P.S. Anyone know anywhere in the Northshore of MA know somewhere to fix my car or take it if i have any problems. Dealerships suck and i dont want to get ripped off. (I originally took it to Frasier Pontiac-GMC in Salisbury. Thanks...

Greg

DWillTA

iTrader: (3)

Well the first thing you should do is get the vacuum leak fixed. That would mean fix the leak at the egr and the intake. Any fresh air that gets into the engine past the MAF is not metered and therefore will cause a lean condition, erratic idle, and numerous other problems.

I would either get rid of the EGR or find out what is leaking (ie tube gasket). The intake leak I would get a new bolt and make sure the rubber gaskets that seal it are ok before installing the bolt.

Then have all the old codes deleted and see if that helps your situation. I have no EGR and used a 1 1/4" rubber expansion plug to fill the hole. I have no issues but I also have no vacuum leaks. Hope that helps.

Y2KSLPSS

I have the same problem, Pull the tube on top of the intake from the EGR. I'll bet the gasket is pulled down. Mine keeps sucking it in. I'll fix it, It will drive good for 50-100 miles, then it does it again. Good luck......

Redneck Z

iTrader: (3)

This would be a great time to upgrade to an LS6 intake manifold. If you don't want to do that, you will at least have to buy a new bolt, egr gasket and intake port gaskets. The intake gaskets from GM are like $90, so I've heard. Your stock gaskets are probable flattened and not sealing like they could be. Mine is a 98 also and when I took off my manifold, the gaskets were all flat and worn looking. They new gaskets on my LS6 manifold are fresh and look much thicker. If you have the money, and have to spend $120 in gaskets/bolts and take off your manifold anyways, might as well do an LS6.

Y2KSLPSS

I've been having the same problems almost to the "T". Today I finally fixed it after months of 4 letter words...... First of all, I think the single bolt hold down for the egr tube is bull s@$#!!!! The brass insert in the intake was the problem with my car. When tightening the bolt, the insert was pulling out. It sat about 1/8-1/4" up from flush. So, it was sucking the o-ring in after 50 miles or so. I got it back in & drove about 250 miles today, no stumbling or SES light. Problem solved, thank god it's over...... Check that o-ring & brass insert.......

Coy

iTrader: (4)

Take out the EGR.