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Pics of header/intake install

Old Jul 16, 2005 | 12:15 AM
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Default Pics of header/intake install

First of all - THANKS to everyone here who answered all my questions and threads. It all really helped. Especially the rapid responses when I broke my oil pressure sensor while installing the intake!

List of parts:
Hooker coated headers
Mufflex 4" Y-pipe
Dynomax 4" bullet muffler
16" length of scrap 4" exhaust pipe
GM header gaskets
Stage 8 locking header bolts
LS6 intake manifold
20lbs elbow grease

First is the passenger headers - can't get a much better angle, so I only took one pic


Driver headers



Closeup of the Stage 8 locking header bolts. Not necessary - but if you have a few extra bucks, it's great to never have to worry about them again.


Driver side collectors and part of the Mufflex 4" Y-pipe


Passenger side collector and part of Y-pipe


Here's the actual Flowmaster 2-into-1 merge. I was able to get that crossmember to bolt up by using a small jack to raise the assembly up a bit. I have absolutely ZERO rattles - the entire exhaust is as rigid as if it were welded to the body!


The end of the Y-pipe and the Dynomax 4" bullet muffler. I got about 16" of 4" exhaust pipe from an 18 wheeler exhaust shop (cost? - $5) and welded 8" in front and 8" behind the muffler. The hanger is hidden - it's on the very back of the end pipe, is a simple 6" long strip of steel, and bolts directly to the sheet metal that forms the rear passenger bucket seat. Also, I painted everything with VHT red brake caliper paint to inhibit rust as much as possible. As you can see, the muffler is still nice and red, while the piping is turning a blood red color (heat, I guess - though my brakes are still nice and red).


Here is how much ground clearance I actually have. Exactly 3"! Not much, but I must admit that I haven't grounded on anything yet. As you can see (hopefully you can see it), I can't raise the pipe up any further. It is already 1/4" from the floorpan. Any closer and I'm afraid of rattling.


Another picture with the car resting normally (all the others, except the above measurement, had the front raised about 16"). Not much clearance, but not bad.


View from the rear. About the only downside is that my swaybar gets D-I-R-T-Y where the exhaist hits it. But, it doesn't get hot, thank God.


It all makes it worthwhile when your exhaust, which is nice and quiet (enough to not get pulled over, at least), is this open! This is from the rear, through the muffler. Yes, that is the Flowmaster merge you're seeing. Oh, and you can see the hanger welded to the side, also.


And, finally, the new intake. Since it looks JUST like the old one, I just took a general picture of the engine with a lot less clutter.


Hope you enjoy these pictures as much as I'm enjoying the real thing. I was making 322rwhp before, I'm hoping to break the 350 mark. But, honestly, even if I was told it was 325, it still feels amazing!

Again, thanks to everyone who helped!!

Last edited by 00 Trans Ram; Jul 18, 2005 at 10:05 AM.
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Old Jul 18, 2005 | 10:07 AM
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Finally, I fixed all the little red X's that were showing up. Hope you enjoy!!
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Old Jul 18, 2005 | 10:30 AM
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Are you going to finish out the exhaust or is that as far as she goes? Thats got to be loud as hell.
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Old Jul 18, 2005 | 10:37 AM
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niiice, i have been wanting to put just a bullet instead of my catback for a while, i cannot stand the rattles and drone and everything with the cutout and catback. how does it sound? do you know how it compares to a cutout? you got a 4" do i need a 4"? i have a pacesetter ypipe.
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Old Jul 18, 2005 | 11:29 AM
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3inches of clearance? yikes!!!! Are you at stock ride height?
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Old Jul 18, 2005 | 11:31 AM
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Conan - That's the entire thing. I don't want to add any more pipe further back, as it would also add weight. About the only thing that I may have to do in the future is put a 90* bend and have it exit out the passenger side before the wheel (some racing bodies require the exhaust NOT exit under the car). As for the sound, it's not that loud during normal driving. I mean, just lazy accelleration around town should not garner any looks or police attention. However, when you give it full throttle, it gets VERY loud above 3000RPM.

Hourang - Yes, the sound is much better with the muffler. I drove for a while with just the headers and y-pipe. It was loud and somewhat raspy. The muffler cut the sound roughly in half, and made it much deeper during normal driving. Plus, I can't imagine that there would be ANY additional restriction because of the muffler. As you can see, there is nothing in the way of the air flow. But, you probably do not need 4". In fact, I don't even need that. I got it for a couple of reasons. First, I did not have a y-pipe, so I had to get something. The Hooker ones that they had were not of the best quality (some questionable welds, and the "y" merge was not optimal). Second, if I ever decide to do heads/cam, FI, or increased displacement, I will want the additional capaicty that the 4" provides. But, for a normal engine with bolt-ons, a regular 3" would be just fine.
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Old Jul 18, 2005 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by SporkLover
3inches of clearance? yikes!!!! Are you at stock ride height?
Not quite. My front is lowered roughly 1" or so. I've got 550lb springs, with Koni SA's, though. When I go over a bump (like a speed bump), my car does one bounce when it comes back down, and then rides level. I still haven't driven it that much. If it was a daily driver, I may be worried about it. But, I only drive the car a few times per month (mostly to and from races).
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Old Jul 18, 2005 | 01:05 PM
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nice pics
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Old Jul 19, 2005 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 00 Trans Ram
Hourang - Yes, the sound is much better with the muffler. I drove for a while with just the headers and y-pipe. It was loud and somewhat raspy. The muffler cut the sound roughly in half, and made it much deeper during normal driving. Plus, I can't imagine that there would be ANY additional restriction because of the muffler. As you can see, there is nothing in the way of the air flow. But, you probably do not need 4". In fact, I don't even need that. I got it for a couple of reasons. First, I did not have a y-pipe, so I had to get something. The Hooker ones that they had were not of the best quality (some questionable welds, and the "y" merge was not optimal). Second, if I ever decide to do heads/cam, FI, or increased displacement, I will want the additional capaicty that the 4" provides. But, for a normal engine with bolt-ons, a regular 3" would be just fine.
Awesome man thanks a lot, thats exactly the type of answer i have been looking for. since i am not just boltons, i might just go with a 4". im just getting so sick of the rattles and the damn rasp is driving me crazy, plus the 50lbs of stock catback would be nice to drop. i hope i dont draw more attention by cops with the no tail pipes, :crossesfingers: i would LOVE to hear a sound clip if you get some time and have the resources,
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Old Jul 19, 2005 | 02:14 PM
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I may be able to post some video of it next week. I've got a race this Sunday, and a guy is supposed to bring a digital camcorder. That way, you'll get to hear it under strain (while driving). I've noticed that engines sound completely different when revving in the driveway as compared to accellerating under load on the road.
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Old Jul 19, 2005 | 08:53 PM
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why did u go with a Y pipe over a X pipe?
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Old Jul 20, 2005 | 02:43 AM
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damn...3 inches isnt very much, get used to crawling over speed bumps and angling out of almost every parking lot. but go out and have some fun with your new mods! im sure it sounds great
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Old Jul 20, 2005 | 11:38 AM
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you should post some sound clips
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Old Jul 20, 2005 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by greatskiiiier
you should post some sound clips
I should have some video of me racing after this weekend. A friend is bring a digital camcorder to the race. I'll let you know!
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