installing headers
installing headers I ordered some headers and I was wondering if I needed to use my factory exhaust manifold gaskets or should my headers have come with some header gaskets?? I know you can buy some "awesome no leak gaskets", but I was just wondering if I need aftermarket gaskets or are the factory ones ok?
The company I bought them from said it would include all NECESSARY gaskets and hardware to install these. since I did not get any header gaskets, then are they not necessary I assume??
The company I bought them from said it would include all NECESSARY gaskets and hardware to install these. since I did not get any header gaskets, then are they not necessary I assume??
http://www.ls1speed.com/catagory.cfm?catagory=Exhaust
its towards the bottom its called perceys seal 4 good
98 camaro z 28
its towards the bottom its called perceys seal 4 good
98 camaro z 28
Last edited by SouthernSilverSpeed; Dec 19, 2005 at 11:58 PM. Reason: for got this
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Originally Posted by SouthernSilverSpeed
needless to say I can use factory exhaust manifold gaskets and i do not have to get after market ones
But those you showed me look pretty damn good to me, it will do just fine.
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Verdad Gallardo i apreciate all of the help...Now all I have to do is wait for the rear o2 sims and the front o2 extensions and then the hours of cussing then I will be happy. P.S. I just created another thread about the air and egr got any comments??
Deleting AIR/EGR will set off the SES light. I think the AIR code takes a few days to go off. Either way you have an SES light. There will be no loss in performance etc...just some codes.
You can delete the codes via LS1edit or HPtuners. Or you could just lean to live with them.
You can delete the codes via LS1edit or HPtuners. Or you could just lean to live with them.
Originally Posted by SouthernSilverSpeed
i apreciate all of the help...Now all I have to do is wait for the rear o2 sims and the front o2 extensions and then the hours of cussing then I will be happy. P.S. I just created another thread about the air and egr got any comments??
Its a good experiance installing headers. Be prepared for a lot of cussing and blood and beer
Its a good experiance installing headers. Be prepared for a lot of cussing and blood and beer [/QUOTE]
My headers only took about an hour to install. Now the TD exhaust was another story.
[/QUOTE]My headers only took about an hour to install. Now the TD exhaust was another story.
Originally Posted by SouthernSilverSpeed
so these $36.99 6 piece gasket set is a waist????
I used the gaskets that came with the headers but kept my old one just in case, but have not had a problem.
The duals just took a lot of adjusting over and over again to get them right.
The duals just took a lot of adjusting over and over again to get them right.
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From: Statesville NC
just to let everyone know we are now offering a new gasket to replace the old paper. They are a 2000 degre gasket you can hold a lighter to them and it does not effect the gasket at all. They are awsome to say the least. Call 631 586 9002 Ext 308 if you need a set. George R.
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From: Las Vegas, from Crystal Lake IL
I just installed HOOKER lts and ORY.
I reused the factory steel gaskets and bolts, also since I went catless I removed the air pump system and bolted block off plates on the AIR extensions off the headers.
oh yeah ratcheting wrenches are you best friends!!!
To save your knuckles on future engine work:
when you remove the passenger side coil pack, you will discover that the rear stud is a bitch to get to and remove. So once the stud and coil pack is removed, trim the rear mounting hole on the coil pack into a "U" shape.
This way you can fasten the stud back into the valve cover and slide the coil pack mounting hole into the stud. Now for furture removal you will only have back the stud off alittle bit or tighten it a little bit.
This is the where I cut my hands up and it really slowed down the process trying to lossen that stud!!!
I reused the factory steel gaskets and bolts, also since I went catless I removed the air pump system and bolted block off plates on the AIR extensions off the headers.
oh yeah ratcheting wrenches are you best friends!!!
To save your knuckles on future engine work:
when you remove the passenger side coil pack, you will discover that the rear stud is a bitch to get to and remove. So once the stud and coil pack is removed, trim the rear mounting hole on the coil pack into a "U" shape.
This way you can fasten the stud back into the valve cover and slide the coil pack mounting hole into the stud. Now for furture removal you will only have back the stud off alittle bit or tighten it a little bit.
This is the where I cut my hands up and it really slowed down the process trying to lossen that stud!!!
Last edited by ibanez7; Dec 21, 2005 at 11:21 AM.