Overdrive pulley
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From: Northern Kentucky
Overdrive pulley ok well im looking into a ASP underdrive pulley or Powerbond 25% underdrive pulley, which one is better?? also what is the difference between the overdrive alt pulley and underdrive alt pulley and what does it do to help with voltage?? it says to get a overdrive pulley if you have a system and other electronic stuff aswell.
Yes, the underdrive pulley is worthwile. I have a decent stereo & amps, but I don't have the alt overdrive. (my car is an m6 however). Get the alt overdrive only if you have crazy audio - it will bring the alternator back to stock speeds. Otherwise, have fun with the 25% underdrive pulley!
Originally Posted by Grimes
Yes, the underdrive pulley is worthwile. I have a decent stereo & amps, but I don't have the alt overdrive. (my car is an m6 however). Get the alt overdrive only if you have crazy audio - it will bring the alternator back to stock speeds. Otherwise, have fun with the 25% underdrive pulley!
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Great mod, i got my ASP from Futral with belts. Thunder also carries them.
If you buy one from the sponsers, i'm almost positive it will be a "new style".
I think the "old style" ones were too long and people had trouble getting them to clear when they had a double roller timing chain or somthing.
You are going to need a NEW BOLT for the pulley (gm crank bolt = about 5$), a 24mm deep socket, and a BREAKER BAR to remove it. You can rent a 3-jaw puller from autozone or somewhere to do the job. Ask for a harmonic balancer, 3 jaw puller. You get ALL your money back if you diddnt know
When you re-install, you will be using the bolt to pull the pulley into place. To get it started, most people like to buy a longer bolt as to not try pulling it on only using a few threads because of the stock length bolt (see pic). Most hardware stores sell them, might also want to get some washers like me to make it fit the pulley better. After it pulls on and the bolt is about to bottom out, remove the long bolt and put the OLD BOLT in. Tighten it the rest of the way down, and tq to (or close to) 240ft/lbs. Remove that bolt, put the new bolt in, tq to 37 ft/lbs, mark a line on the pulley, and try to get an additional 140 degrees of turn out of it.
If you buy one from the sponsers, i'm almost positive it will be a "new style".
I think the "old style" ones were too long and people had trouble getting them to clear when they had a double roller timing chain or somthing.
You are going to need a NEW BOLT for the pulley (gm crank bolt = about 5$), a 24mm deep socket, and a BREAKER BAR to remove it. You can rent a 3-jaw puller from autozone or somewhere to do the job. Ask for a harmonic balancer, 3 jaw puller. You get ALL your money back if you diddnt know
When you re-install, you will be using the bolt to pull the pulley into place. To get it started, most people like to buy a longer bolt as to not try pulling it on only using a few threads because of the stock length bolt (see pic). Most hardware stores sell them, might also want to get some washers like me to make it fit the pulley better. After it pulls on and the bolt is about to bottom out, remove the long bolt and put the OLD BOLT in. Tighten it the rest of the way down, and tq to (or close to) 240ft/lbs. Remove that bolt, put the new bolt in, tq to 37 ft/lbs, mark a line on the pulley, and try to get an additional 140 degrees of turn out of it.
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Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
Great mod, i got my ASP from Futral with belts. Thunder also carries them.
If you buy one from the sponsers, i'm almost positive it will be a "new style".
I think the "old style" ones were too long and people had trouble getting them to clear when they had a double roller timing chain or somthing.
You are going to need a NEW BOLT for the pulley (gm crank bolt = about 5$), a 24mm deep socket, and a BREAKER BAR to remove it.
If you buy one from the sponsers, i'm almost positive it will be a "new style".
I think the "old style" ones were too long and people had trouble getting them to clear when they had a double roller timing chain or somthing.
You are going to need a NEW BOLT for the pulley (gm crank bolt = about 5$), a 24mm deep socket, and a BREAKER BAR to remove it.
1 more thing you should get: a 3 foot piece of pipe that fits over the breaker bar. It took me <5 minutes to get the crank bolt off with the bar from the top of the engine bay.
BTW, you will need a flywheel locking tool to hold the crank still because you have an auto....
PS. Blur.....Windex = your keyboards best friend, lol
I used to be one of the people saying " yeah, yeah, yeah!" get the pulley it works!!!
Now I hate my pulley. Power steering at near idle going through parking lots- tough as crap to turn the wheel unless you blip the throttle. In the winter now I've got ZERO traction in 1st & 2nd gear and 3rd breaks loose if you floor it above 4,000rpm.
If I raced a 170 hp Hyundai Tiburon from a stop light he'd smoke my 470 hp Firehawk. No ****. **** this pulley! And about the last 40 horsepower I've added.
Save your $220 and buy some candy.
Now I hate my pulley. Power steering at near idle going through parking lots- tough as crap to turn the wheel unless you blip the throttle. In the winter now I've got ZERO traction in 1st & 2nd gear and 3rd breaks loose if you floor it above 4,000rpm.
If I raced a 170 hp Hyundai Tiburon from a stop light he'd smoke my 470 hp Firehawk. No ****. **** this pulley! And about the last 40 horsepower I've added.
Save your $220 and buy some candy.
Thread Starter
TECH Addict
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Northern Kentucky
i dont think a pulley would add that much and cause you to lose traction and power steering, i thought i just freed up some horses by not putting so much stress on the engine and letting the pulley rotate better or something like that. also how much horse power did u gain from adding the ASP pulley and should i get the overdrive pulley since my car doesnt seem to have charging problems but the voltmeter gauge goes to 13 at idle when fully warmed up and then when i drive it goes up to about 14.5-15 volts, what could cause that problem. i do have a system and some electronics hooked up so i think that and the bigger plug wires possibly but i dont know.
the alternator's output is just less at idle, and then is more when driving around increases. mine does the same thing b/c of the pulley, but it's nothing to worry about. still charging the battery at 13 volts
My car came with an underdrive pully installed. I raced a 98 WS6 a4 also, same gears everything, he had loudmouth, i had borla. he jumped early at jumped 1 1/2 cars ahead of me, this was at 55 ish, at 120 ish i had over a car on him. really pulls well
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