sounds bad ***...might have to get a couple cutouts and then the controller...is it already available?

 

i did call and you said it would be $30 plus shipping for a rebuild and you so i am rebuilding it myself for the second time in a year

how about a discount on the new controller

besides that it is awesome and the best $180 i have ever spent

 

and i think the 2 1/16 gauge idea is great too i will buy one

 

oorrrrr how about just one button or 2 with the controller box that you mount remotely. so you can mount one little button aqnywhere and mount controller box under the seat

 

The 06 Z06 has vacuum opperated valve.

http://www.exoticcarsite.com/pages/chevrolet_c6_zo6.htm

If you wanted it to open really fast, an RC motor would do the trick.

 

HMMM??? seems a little overkill to me... I have dual cutouts tied into the one switch that seems to work just fine. i can tell when they are fully open and closed just fine. The only problem i keep having is the set screws keep backing out on the butterflys.. causing the rod to keep spinning when closed. then when given hard throttle will cause them to open up and have a lil exhaust leak sputter. They are a blast and get lots of good comments, but if i did it over again id go with true duals to make tranny/clutch work much easier. I hate pulling all that pipework down!! Oh yeah, better have welding skills if you have subframe connectors!! I had to make a pipe extension to get away from them. last lil thing is ground clearance.. my driver side cutout sits about 1 1/2" off the ground.. i wouldnt recomend them on a lowered car unless the pipe was bent differently. I scrape most every bump if not crawling over them.

 

I had that problem with a home-made cutout. The fix was to use longer, Allen head screws, which can be torqued tighter and also fitted with lock nuts. Make sure you jiggle the butterflies around for the best seal as you tighten the screws.

 

If someone has a problem with our unit feel free to call us. The purpose of this thread was to show you guys a new product for our electric cutout. We are always are looking ways to improve and make better products. That is why the controller is coming to life

 

hopefully this will fix the problem with the cut out and hopef ully it will not cost another $100 on top of the $180 cut out

maybe it will be cheaper

when are you looking to release the controller ?

 

when will this be out???

 

that is pretty tight

 

why not just do a wireless one also HAHAH

it definitly looks cool, and im sure its worth the 100bucks. But ill stick with the cheap toggle switch that works fine.

If those units were more around 50bucks then it would be something I would consider. Definitly looks good though, but for us that are broke its alot HAHAH

 

true $100 is too much and $180 is to much for the cutout but its fun

 

Has this been released yet? And from what I'm reading you'd be able to just hook up an on off type switch to open and close it automatically?

 

We are working on them now. Should be ready shortly. Making the handheld ones first. The ones pictured in this thread. it is a fun toy. I have a prototype electric muffler system on my truck and rarely open it up. But since i put the prototype controller on it, let me say its been opening and closing alot more now

 

I think its great. I'm tiered of guessing if its opened all the way. I'm scared I'm going to burn up the motor.

 

I think it is pretty sweet, especially being able to set it up to open at WOT. For those of us with a 2-step or t-brake I would think it would almost be all the way open by the time you launch after getting up on the brake for a second or two.

I also like the idea of making one fit into a gauge hole

 

Is this going to help with over torqing the motor and help keep the motor from coming loose?Dont get me wrong the controller is nice.It just seems like a $100 bandaid for those that do have problems with there motors coming loose/screws falling out.You said most problems are from the cutouts being installed wrong.I dont see how thats possible,its plug/bolt and play.The most important thing with most of the cutouts is people not knowing that over opening/closing them puts alot of stress on the motors and eventually the motor comes loose/fails.Due to the thinness of the motor where the screws go in.

I'm just a little bitter because I have had 2 fail now.So now its $280 for something that might still fail.Please dont take this the wrong way.You have good products and customer support.Ive said that in other threads!But I dont feel that after spending $400 on 2 failed motors/screws falling out that I should have to pay shipping and then only the cost of a new motor to get a known problem fixed.I've already went to another cutout that could possably fail as well!If most of the cutout makers could figure out a way to stop the motors from coming loose/failing there wouldnt be alot of problems anyway.

You could have the motor mounted the way it is and then have a brace with a hole in it that goes over the top of the motor where the wires are and have it come back down and screw in to the cut out to give the motor more strength.So basically it would be screwed in to the cut out into the top and the bottom.

I'm not the greatest artist,but something like below,the top dashes would screw to the wire end of the motor and the bottom lines would screw into the cutout.Then still use the screws like thery're mounted originally.

When I post this the lines dont come out right.The up and down lines should be vertical with each other.

|-- --|
| M |
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Sweet, I called you guys earlier about my passenger side cutout, got it closed and tightened the set screw so it wouldn't rattle. at least. Didn't have the time after work to pull it off and recheck everything, but will saturday. Thanks for all the help and I will be buyin one of these when they're released.