why are catch cans expensive? what about this one?
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From: Tree-Hugging, Bug eating CALI'
I have a cheap one, like those, and it works good. I get a few tea spoons of oil in there every oil change. The baffled ones are a good idea too, but, a little expensive.
Originally Posted by Quickin
So what do you do with the oil in the can, pour it back into the engine every fvew days?
.
.
Remove the oil from teh catchcan and pour it into an old oil container. Most autoparts stores have a big *** tank in the back they will let you dump old oil into.
Oil going through the PCV system in excess is caused by higher crankcase pressures. This is caused by blowby, which is when your piston rings aren't sealing with the cylinder walls.
What size fittings on those 2 e-bay catch cans at the top?? I don't see any info on the fittings in the description.
OK I just saw that the top one (blue) has 1/2" fittings. What about the second one??
OK I just saw that the top one (blue) has 1/2" fittings. What about the second one??
I've only driven a few miles so far and havn't opened it up to see. It won't show on the external tube until about 1/2 inch of oil accumulates.
The fittings are Metric but are very close to a 3/8 inch US. A 3/8 hose fits nicely!
Also, I removed the bottom drain fitting, tapped the hole to US NPT and installed a Drain valve. (see photo above)
The fittings are Metric but are very close to a 3/8 inch US. A 3/8 hose fits nicely!
Also, I removed the bottom drain fitting, tapped the hole to US NPT and installed a Drain valve. (see photo above)
Originally Posted by BudH
I've only driven a few miles so far and havn't opened it up to see. It won't show on the external tube until about 1/2 inch of oil accumulates.
The fittings are Metric but are very close to a 3/8 inch US. A 3/8 hose fits nicely!
Also, I removed the bottom drain fitting, tapped the hole to US NPT and installed a Drain valve. (see photo above)
The fittings are Metric but are very close to a 3/8 inch US. A 3/8 hose fits nicely!
Also, I removed the bottom drain fitting, tapped the hole to US NPT and installed a Drain valve. (see photo above)
Tahnks.
edit: I guess it would be the one in the link in your first post here wouldn't it
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ooh I'm glad you chimed in on those fittings. I was wondering about that.
These look real nice, but can't tell what the actual price is :/
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ABCA%3AUS%3A11
These look real nice, but can't tell what the actual price is :/
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ABCA%3AUS%3A11
Originally Posted by 6spd
ooh I'm glad you chimed in on those fittings. I was wondering about that.
These look real nice, but can't tell what the actual price is :/
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ABCA%3AUS%3A11
These look real nice, but can't tell what the actual price is :/
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ABCA%3AUS%3A11
. 
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,080
Likes: 17
From: So.Cal.
Some problems with sucking oil into intake:
a. may cause knock;
b. contaminates O2 sensors and catalyst;
c. wastes oil (expensive if you use synth.).
Can plumb in a catch can, but you have to empty it regularly.
I drilled a 3/4" hole thru my oil cap, installed rubber grommet, pushed PCV into grommet, reversed flow thru PCV plastic tubes, plugged air nub near front of RHS valve cover;
when accelerating, alot of oil is pumped up pushrods into valve cover and g-force pushes it to rear of valve cover; oil cap is highest position on engine, so no liquid oil will be sucked (I peek past TB blade into manifold using flashlight, and no oil present).
I had to buy a rubber grommet.
a. may cause knock;
b. contaminates O2 sensors and catalyst;
c. wastes oil (expensive if you use synth.).
Can plumb in a catch can, but you have to empty it regularly.
I drilled a 3/4" hole thru my oil cap, installed rubber grommet, pushed PCV into grommet, reversed flow thru PCV plastic tubes, plugged air nub near front of RHS valve cover;
when accelerating, alot of oil is pumped up pushrods into valve cover and g-force pushes it to rear of valve cover; oil cap is highest position on engine, so no liquid oil will be sucked (I peek past TB blade into manifold using flashlight, and no oil present).
I had to buy a rubber grommet.
Last edited by joecar; Jan 25, 2006 at 04:36 PM.
Originally Posted by 6spd
ooh I'm glad you chimed in on those fittings. I was wondering about that.
These look real nice, but can't tell what the actual price is :/
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ABCA%3AUS%3A11
These look real nice, but can't tell what the actual price is :/
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ABCA%3AUS%3A11
TECH Addict
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,003
Likes: 0
From: Live Oak, FL - in the woods where the creatures lurk.
Originally Posted by 300bhp/ton
Unless there is excessive oil I can't see any problem with a little oil making it's way into the intake (although it is far from idea). It won't cause any real harm (to my knowledge anyhow).
chamber contributes to knock retard, which pulls timing
and inhibits performance. It can also contribute to
deposits in the combustion chambers, and on
the piston. From what I've seen, at least in my case,
a catch can routed in line between the pcv & TB have
(so far) reduced KR.
BTW, I've had an on/off KR problem for 10s of 1000s
of miles, which I always used GM top engine cleaner to
clear up.
Best,
gwj
Originally Posted by Frosty
Aside from the silver Greddy one posted has anyone used one of the red or blue ones from ebay(the links that were posted)? I'm temped to pick one up.
I am running a one from Ebay. Got it cheap seems to work good better then nothing. I think the other ones are way too over priced.
TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,660
Likes: 14
From: England
Originally Posted by gwj
Well, the problem is that oil entering the combustion
chamber contributes to knock retard, which pulls timing
and inhibits performance. It can also contribute to
deposits in the combustion chambers, and on
the piston. From what I've seen, at least in my case,
a catch can routed in line between the pcv & TB have
(so far) reduced KR.
BTW, I've had an on/off KR problem for 10s of 1000s
of miles, which I always used GM top engine cleaner to
clear up.
Best,
gwj
chamber contributes to knock retard, which pulls timing
and inhibits performance. It can also contribute to
deposits in the combustion chambers, and on
the piston. From what I've seen, at least in my case,
a catch can routed in line between the pcv & TB have
(so far) reduced KR.
BTW, I've had an on/off KR problem for 10s of 1000s
of miles, which I always used GM top engine cleaner to
clear up.
Best,
gwj
But yes deposits I can see as being an issue, but still not major. Most engines, espcially older ones (design) all tend to burn a bit of oil in one way or another and it never harmed them at all. Even areo engines do and there's no way they would be allowed to if it wasn't safe.
I decided to put the catch can on after I saw the oil buildup in the exhaust ports (intake off). I also did some mods inside the can before install, since it's just an open can inside.
1. On the incoming side, I pressed a hose fitting in and dropped a hose 2/3 of the way to the bottom of the can so the vapors have to go to the bottom of the can and then back up.
2. I then made a metal platform about 2 inches from the bottom and stuffed the top 2/3 of the can with stainless steel mesh like used in the high dollar AMW can.
Time will tell how effective it will be!
1. On the incoming side, I pressed a hose fitting in and dropped a hose 2/3 of the way to the bottom of the can so the vapors have to go to the bottom of the can and then back up.
2. I then made a metal platform about 2 inches from the bottom and stuffed the top 2/3 of the can with stainless steel mesh like used in the high dollar AMW can.
Time will tell how effective it will be!
Originally Posted by LS1FIRE
I am running a one from Ebay. Got it cheap seems to work good better then nothing. I think the other ones are way too over priced.
Cool, maybe I'll pick one up, thanks!
Originally Posted by 4thGenCamaro
What oil are you using? Try 5w40 synthetic. It should help. I run Mobil 1 5w40 in my car, and had a catch can installed for a little over 5,000 miles. When I checked the catch can, it was bone dry.
