Preparing for header install, some questions...
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TECH Junkie
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From: Highland, Indiana
Preparing for header install, some questions... Ok I have some headers on the way, probably going on friday night...
Just wondering a few things:
First , can I paint the y-pipe and catback with some hi-temp paint so it wont rust? If so what temp should I look for?
Assuming I put some penetrating oil on the manifold bolts will i probably still break them ? and assuming I dont is it not a good idea to reuse them?
Do you need to notch the k-member for all pacesetter installs or just sometimes?
Any kind of general tips for installing headers would be great too, and yes I know there are stickies and stuff, these are just some questions I didnt really find anywhere
Thanks guys
Just wondering a few things:
First , can I paint the y-pipe and catback with some hi-temp paint so it wont rust? If so what temp should I look for?
Assuming I put some penetrating oil on the manifold bolts will i probably still break them ? and assuming I dont is it not a good idea to reuse them?
Do you need to notch the k-member for all pacesetter installs or just sometimes?
Any kind of general tips for installing headers would be great too, and yes I know there are stickies and stuff, these are just some questions I didnt really find anywhere
Thanks guys
My stock manifold bolts looked pretty rusty, but it's just the head of the bolt that is rusty. Use plenty of penetrating oil and wait until the engine has cooled down before removing the bolts. The bolts should come out pretty easy due to the heads and the bolts being made from two different materials. I have heard of a couple cases of bolts breaking off in heads though.
You can reuse the stock bolts aor get new stock bolts if the threads look messed up.
It seems that just sometimes that k-members need to be notched. I myself have never installed any pacesetters though.
I guess you could paint the exhaust. I don't know about what temperature to get. The higher the better. The paint will probably eventually chip off.
You can reuse the stock bolts aor get new stock bolts if the threads look messed up.
It seems that just sometimes that k-members need to be notched. I myself have never installed any pacesetters though.
I guess you could paint the exhaust. I don't know about what temperature to get. The higher the better. The paint will probably eventually chip off.
The paint might survive the y pipe and catback temps, I'd look for the highest advertised temp paint (VHT goes to like 1200* IIRC) or look at eastwoods high temp coatings (I've had good luck with eastwoods products before, but haven't used the hi temp paint tho)
The bolts, I sprayed the crap out of them the night before, then before I started, I started the car and let it get to op temp, then sprayed them again, then let the car cool off (yes it smokes and smells bad)
I didn't have to notch the K member at all (IIRC that was the early pacesetters that had that problem they redesigned them to eliminate the need for k member notching)
Good luck with the install
The bolts, I sprayed the crap out of them the night before, then before I started, I started the car and let it get to op temp, then sprayed them again, then let the car cool off (yes it smokes and smells bad)
I didn't have to notch the K member at all (IIRC that was the early pacesetters that had that problem they redesigned them to eliminate the need for k member notching)
Good luck with the install
Paint: I've had great luck with Duplicolor High Temp "Ceramic" Exhaust paint. It's supposed to withstand up to 1200 degrees. I painted my old mac's and ypipe with it and it looked damn good 2 yrs later. Also just painted my duals with it and it seems to be holding just as good. I usually get it at autozone.
I've re-used the stock manifold/header bolts for both sets of headers I've had on my car. Just make sure you put some anti-seize on them before you stick them back in. When removing them for the first time, I hit mine with PB Blaster and let it sit for an hour, didn't have any troubles breaking them loose.
Install: This is how I did mine.....Get the car up as high as you safely can. Remove the steering shaft, sparkplugs. You may have to saw off the casting tabs on each side of the block (I cut both of mine off). The pacesetters will slide right in from the bottom. Mine fit so good they would actually fall out the bottom without someone holding them in place underneath the car! Good luck and have fun!!
I've re-used the stock manifold/header bolts for both sets of headers I've had on my car. Just make sure you put some anti-seize on them before you stick them back in. When removing them for the first time, I hit mine with PB Blaster and let it sit for an hour, didn't have any troubles breaking them loose.
Install: This is how I did mine.....Get the car up as high as you safely can. Remove the steering shaft, sparkplugs. You may have to saw off the casting tabs on each side of the block (I cut both of mine off). The pacesetters will slide right in from the bottom. Mine fit so good they would actually fall out the bottom without someone holding them in place underneath the car! Good luck and have fun!!
Staging Lane
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From: Arizona Two blocks north of Hell
I didn't need to remove the steering shaft, but did have to cut off the block tab on the drivers side. No way in hell it will go in with out. I used anti seize and ran every stock manifold bolt back into the head far enough so I knew I could run the bolt in by hand and not cross thread. If you are doing this install on jack stands, HIGH is all I can say. Good luck...
Originally Posted by DVSWS6
I didn't need to remove the steering shaft, but did have to cut off the block tab on the drivers side. No way in hell it will go in with out. I used anti seize and ran every stock manifold bolt back into the head far enough so I knew I could run the bolt in by hand and not cross thread. If you are doing this install on jack stands, HIGH is all I can say. Good luck...
Do what he said. EASY install. I wish I had changed my motor mounts when my headers were off. Repeat. Hint..... "change mounts when the headers are off" I also wrapped some header tape from summit racing equipment around the collectors only. Helps keep the o2 sensors warm. I spliced some wire into my upper o2 sensor wires and rerouted the sensors to the back off the engine and down to the bungs. Has a wire melt due to header heat before I did this. MaY want to change spark plugs while headers are off- why not!!!
all high temp pain on headers that I have seen is chipping or looks like ****. I say its not worth it unless you have no coating on them what so ever. I would just use some arp bolts, they don't cost too much and are better. and like said above change your spark plugs out while you are in there.
Also make sure it is a dry day when you are putting your o2 extensions on as if its humid you can get some moisture in the connector and keep blowing o2's and can't figure out why like I did.
When you put the y-pipe in you may want to use a muflex hanger on there to keep the y-pipe from banging the floorboard, or throw in a couple of new motor mounts.
have fun
Also make sure it is a dry day when you are putting your o2 extensions on as if its humid you can get some moisture in the connector and keep blowing o2's and can't figure out why like I did.
When you put the y-pipe in you may want to use a muflex hanger on there to keep the y-pipe from banging the floorboard, or throw in a couple of new motor mounts.
have fun
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I didn't have to remove the steering shaft or notch anything but that was on a lift so I don't know if the added height helped. The swap is really simple once you get started. It helps to have company around to help also.
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Originally Posted by Luna
Am I probably OK using the original gasket? I have read alot of people have no problems just reusing them
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
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From: Highland, Indiana
Well , I reused the stock gaskets, didnt need to notch anything, didnt need to remove the steering shaft, the damn headers fit better than the stock manifolds.
This install went so smoothly I couldnt believe it, it took 8 hours but thats not too bad for a first time not knowing what the hell is goin on, and WOW it sounds INCREDIBLE!!
The extra power is definetely noticable as well, the only problem is the notorious banging y-pipe, I guess I will scour LS1tech in the morning for a solution
This install went so smoothly I couldnt believe it, it took 8 hours but thats not too bad for a first time not knowing what the hell is goin on, and WOW it sounds INCREDIBLE!!
The extra power is definetely noticable as well, the only problem is the notorious banging y-pipe, I guess I will scour LS1tech in the morning for a solution
After all the research, you diddnt read any posts of mine (or many others) advocating the poly motor mounts? This would have solved your problem before it started 
Unfortunatly, installing motor mounts with the exhaust in place, is a major PITA.
You could look to see where it's hitting and do some bashing action if you'd like. I've also seen where someone welded a valvespring between the contact points
Unfortunatly, installing motor mounts with the exhaust in place, is a major PITA.
You could look to see where it's hitting and do some bashing action if you'd like. I've also seen where someone welded a valvespring between the contact points
Couldn't agree more. 
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
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From: Highland, Indiana
Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
After all the research, you diddnt read any posts of mine (or many others) advocating the poly motor mounts? This would have solved your problem before it started
Unfortunatly, installing motor mounts with the exhaust in place, is a major PITA.
You could look to see where it's hitting and do some bashing action if you'd like. I've also seen where someone welded a valvespring between the contact points
Unfortunatly, installing motor mounts with the exhaust in place, is a major PITA.
You could look to see where it's hitting and do some bashing action if you'd like. I've also seen where someone welded a valvespring between the contact points
I think I can see where it is happening at... but then again I'm not even sure if its banging, what would it sound like? cuz something is making a funny noise, thats for sure
Originally Posted by Luna
Well I had a hell of a time finding all the parts I needed to get this done in the first place, it was just too late to throw poly motor mounts into the mix... are those mufflex bump stop hanger things that thunder racing has any good to fix the banging ?
I think I can see where it is happening at... but then again I'm not even sure if its banging, what would it sound like? cuz something is making a funny noise, thats for sure
I think I can see where it is happening at... but then again I'm not even sure if its banging, what would it sound like? cuz something is making a funny noise, thats for sure
It usually does it on startup, and when you are accelerating, especially in 1st gear.
99% of the time, it is banging under the driverside floorboard. The pipe leaves the header, then takes a dip to clear a support brace, right by the fuel line heat shield. You should be able to rotate that piece in such a way that it won't hit.
You can also take it off and beat in pipe a little with a hammer, or beat in the car, or both.
