Need help with long tubes.....
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 34
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From: Fairless Hills, PA
Need help with long tubes..... Ok, I want to get SLP long Tube headers. I was going to buy the kit from lmperformance.com but I dont wan tthe catalytic converters. What do i need to buy (Y Pipe, o2 sensors, etc.) to set up slp long tubes without catalytic converters and what do i need to do to teh car after i install them to make it work correctly. Thanks 
If your car is lowered( looks like it is) you would be making a big mistake in buying the SLP headers....they hang way to low and will drag on anything and everything...speed bumps, curbs, dyno's, flatbed, etc.etc. I originally had them and now have Hooker headers...the SLP's hung a pipe and a half lower than the Hooker's do. Good luck if you choose SLP . SLP headers are going to be nothing but problems for you. They were great before other people got into the game, now they are obsolete and only making money off of people who don't know any better.
Check out Pacesetter headers ( -------> TSP ) for a great deal on a great header. For the price, these headers are just like sore dicks........you just can't beat 'em.
If you're a baller, go with stainless. QTP (my favorite), Kooks, Stainless Works are some of the brands.
You can buy any of these with an ORY (off-road y-pipe) which is just lingo for no cats. You will need 2 24" O2 extensions so your stock wiring harness on each side will reach the new locations where the O2 sensors are plugged in at. You will also need to either 1) have the rear O2 sensor codes deleted to prevent service engine soon light, or 2) buy O2 sims to plug into the rear O2 harness to fool the computer into thinking you have working cats.
The best choice is 1). O2 sims have been known to throw the SES light anyway, computer tuning eliminates it, and usually is less expensive than O2 sims. You will have to find a sponser close to you to do the tuning, or mail in your PCM somewhere and have it done. I would also suggest having the codes for AIR and EGR deleted at the same time. It will not affect the performance, but it will let you junk some of that **** if you wish to do so.
I would also look into the "race" headers and get rid of the aforementioned BS.
Check out Pacesetter headers ( -------> TSP ) for a great deal on a great header. For the price, these headers are just like sore dicks........you just can't beat 'em.
If you're a baller, go with stainless. QTP (my favorite), Kooks, Stainless Works are some of the brands.
You can buy any of these with an ORY (off-road y-pipe) which is just lingo for no cats. You will need 2 24" O2 extensions so your stock wiring harness on each side will reach the new locations where the O2 sensors are plugged in at. You will also need to either 1) have the rear O2 sensor codes deleted to prevent service engine soon light, or 2) buy O2 sims to plug into the rear O2 harness to fool the computer into thinking you have working cats.
The best choice is 1). O2 sims have been known to throw the SES light anyway, computer tuning eliminates it, and usually is less expensive than O2 sims. You will have to find a sponser close to you to do the tuning, or mail in your PCM somewhere and have it done. I would also suggest having the codes for AIR and EGR deleted at the same time. It will not affect the performance, but it will let you junk some of that **** if you wish to do so.
I would also look into the "race" headers and get rid of the aforementioned BS.
Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
SLP headers are going to be nothing but problems for you. They were great before other people got into the game, now they are obsolete and only making money off of people who don't know any better.
Check out Pacesetter headers ( -------> TSP ) for a great deal on a great header. For the price, these headers are just like sore dicks........you just can't beat 'em.
If you're a baller, go with stainless. QTP (my favorite), Kooks, Stainless Works are some of the brands.
You can buy any of these with an ORY (off-road y-pipe) which is just lingo for no cats. You will need 2 24" O2 extensions so your stock wiring harness on each side will reach the new locations where the O2 sensors are plugged in at. You will also need to either 1) have the rear O2 sensor codes deleted to prevent service engine soon light, or 2) buy O2 sims to plug into the rear O2 harness to fool the computer into thinking you have working cats.
The best choice is 1). O2 sims have been known to throw the SES light anyway, computer tuning eliminates it, and usually is less expensive than O2 sims. You will have to find a sponser close to you to do the tuning, or mail in your PCM somewhere and have it done. I would also suggest having the codes for AIR and EGR deleted at the same time. It will not affect the performance, but it will let you junk some of that **** if you wish to do so.
I would also look into the "race" headers and get rid of the aforementioned BS.
Check out Pacesetter headers ( -------> TSP ) for a great deal on a great header. For the price, these headers are just like sore dicks........you just can't beat 'em.
If you're a baller, go with stainless. QTP (my favorite), Kooks, Stainless Works are some of the brands.
You can buy any of these with an ORY (off-road y-pipe) which is just lingo for no cats. You will need 2 24" O2 extensions so your stock wiring harness on each side will reach the new locations where the O2 sensors are plugged in at. You will also need to either 1) have the rear O2 sensor codes deleted to prevent service engine soon light, or 2) buy O2 sims to plug into the rear O2 harness to fool the computer into thinking you have working cats.
The best choice is 1). O2 sims have been known to throw the SES light anyway, computer tuning eliminates it, and usually is less expensive than O2 sims. You will have to find a sponser close to you to do the tuning, or mail in your PCM somewhere and have it done. I would also suggest having the codes for AIR and EGR deleted at the same time. It will not affect the performance, but it will let you junk some of that **** if you wish to do so.
I would also look into the "race" headers and get rid of the aforementioned BS.
Hillarious.....and couldn't have said it better myself!
TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,660
Likes: 14
From: England
Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
SLP headers are going to be nothing but problems for you. They were great before other people got into the game, now they are obsolete and only making money off of people who don't know any better.
Check out Pacesetter headers ( -------> TSP ) for a great deal on a great header. For the price, these headers are just like sore dicks........you just can't beat 'em.
If you're a baller, go with stainless. QTP (my favorite), Kooks, Stainless Works are some of the brands.
You can buy any of these with an ORY (off-road y-pipe) which is just lingo for no cats. You will need 2 24" O2 extensions so your stock wiring harness on each side will reach the new locations where the O2 sensors are plugged in at. You will also need to either 1) have the rear O2 sensor codes deleted to prevent service engine soon light, or 2) buy O2 sims to plug into the rear O2 harness to fool the computer into thinking you have working cats.
The best choice is 1). O2 sims have been known to throw the SES light anyway, computer tuning eliminates it, and usually is less expensive than O2 sims. You will have to find a sponser close to you to do the tuning, or mail in your PCM somewhere and have it done. I would also suggest having the codes for AIR and EGR deleted at the same time. It will not affect the performance, but it will let you junk some of that **** if you wish to do so.
I would also look into the "race" headers and get rid of the aforementioned BS.
Check out Pacesetter headers ( -------> TSP ) for a great deal on a great header. For the price, these headers are just like sore dicks........you just can't beat 'em.
If you're a baller, go with stainless. QTP (my favorite), Kooks, Stainless Works are some of the brands.
You can buy any of these with an ORY (off-road y-pipe) which is just lingo for no cats. You will need 2 24" O2 extensions so your stock wiring harness on each side will reach the new locations where the O2 sensors are plugged in at. You will also need to either 1) have the rear O2 sensor codes deleted to prevent service engine soon light, or 2) buy O2 sims to plug into the rear O2 harness to fool the computer into thinking you have working cats.
The best choice is 1). O2 sims have been known to throw the SES light anyway, computer tuning eliminates it, and usually is less expensive than O2 sims. You will have to find a sponser close to you to do the tuning, or mail in your PCM somewhere and have it done. I would also suggest having the codes for AIR and EGR deleted at the same time. It will not affect the performance, but it will let you junk some of that **** if you wish to do so.
I would also look into the "race" headers and get rid of the aforementioned BS.
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