View Poll Results: Volant CAI or SLP lid with new filter?
Voland cold air intake
50
21.93%
SLP lid with a new airfilter
178
78.07%
Voters: 228. You may not vote on this poll
best intake......
03-22-2006, 11:09 PM
#62
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I'm running the SLP lid and free ram air mod. Eventually when I can save some money I'm gonna go with the Super Sucker Ram Air (SSRA) that has a scoop underneath the front bumper. I believe its called the Austin Green Ram Air now though.
Food for thought
Food for thought
03-23-2006, 08:18 AM
#64
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Originally Posted by Madmax054
what about a voland and a ram air box thing to go under the front to collect air? wouldnt that work great or what?
It will be about 3 weeks or so until I get my car up and running.
03-23-2006, 10:37 AM
#65
Originally Posted by Madmax054
what about a voland and a ram air box thing to go under the front to collect air? wouldnt that work great or what?
BTW, I haven't rerouted my coolant lines passing through the TB either... yet.
Marc
04-19-2006, 02:08 PM
#67
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i just installed the FIPK on my SS and pulled the SLP cai off of it and installed it on my stock TA and i was impressed with the jump in performance. at the time i installed the FIPK i also put in another new cam (f14) pulley meizer pump so i couldn't tell if their was an increase or decrease in performance but the next mod is going to be to cut out an opening in the sheet metal under the k&n filter.
i hear what some of you guys are sayin about how some of these intakes are sucking in hot underhood air but im not sure if that is such an issue since the vehicle is in forward motion there would be alot of cooler fresh air coming into the path of the intake and engine compartment and that is where i got the idea of cutting an opening in the sheat metal under the filter on the FIPK where the slp cai used to be.
i hear what some of you guys are sayin about how some of these intakes are sucking in hot underhood air but im not sure if that is such an issue since the vehicle is in forward motion there would be alot of cooler fresh air coming into the path of the intake and engine compartment and that is where i got the idea of cutting an opening in the sheat metal under the filter on the FIPK where the slp cai used to be.
04-22-2006, 01:41 PM
#69
Originally Posted by boone94
hey nytmare1 and chaman, please post pics of your T/A with the ws6 hood closed and then open! Thanks Mike
Marc
05-09-2006, 03:43 AM
#71
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Hey I just installed a magnaflow catback on my 00 t/a and wanted to ask you guys what would be the best setup for me? I was thinking of getting a ram air box, because my t/a isn't ram air right now, slp air lid, then a 85mm slp MAF, a smooth bellow, and I have my 85mm bbk tb, and and just got my slp ram air hood. With the 85mm tb and ram air hood, what should I get for the money I would be spending on the lid, MAF sensor, bellow, and air box? one more thing, should I take out the baffle if I do a lot of highway driving? thanks and hope to get some info!
05-09-2006, 11:20 AM
#72
If you want to see if a particular setup is working, look at your IAT temps. In our testing, any system that relied on underhood air had a significant increase in temperature compared to ambient.
Check out www.installuniversity.com for their testing on the FTRA. They had an 11 degree drop in IAT temps with the FTRA installed. Ignoring the other benefits of the FTRA, an 11 degree F drop in intake temps results in 1 % more power. Now add is the increase in VE and fuel economy and I think you will see why the system is so popular
It's on sale for 159.99 right now by the way
For the best performance, you do need an aftermarket lid. A smooth bellows and ported TB will work well with the system as well.
Make SURE you have a positive seal for the best performance. Most people forget this step and they are leaving a lot of HP on the table.
Check out www.installuniversity.com for their testing on the FTRA. They had an 11 degree drop in IAT temps with the FTRA installed. Ignoring the other benefits of the FTRA, an 11 degree F drop in intake temps results in 1 % more power. Now add is the increase in VE and fuel economy and I think you will see why the system is so popular
It's on sale for 159.99 right now by the way
For the best performance, you do need an aftermarket lid. A smooth bellows and ported TB will work well with the system as well.
Make SURE you have a positive seal for the best performance. Most people forget this step and they are leaving a lot of HP on the table.
05-09-2006, 05:32 PM
#73
Originally Posted by Fast Toys Performance Parts
If you want to see if a particular setup is working, look at your IAT temps. In our testing, any system that relied on underhood air had a significant increase in temperature compared to ambient.
Check out www.installuniversity.com for their testing on the FTRA. They had an 11 degree drop in IAT temps with the FTRA installed. Ignoring the other benefits of the FTRA, an 11 degree F drop in intake temps results in 1 % more power. Now add is the increase in VE and fuel economy and I think you will see why the system is so popular
It's on sale for 159.99 right now by the way
For the best performance, you do need an aftermarket lid. A smooth bellows and ported TB will work well with the system as well.
Make SURE you have a positive seal for the best performance. Most people forget this step and they are leaving a lot of HP on the table.
Check out www.installuniversity.com for their testing on the FTRA. They had an 11 degree drop in IAT temps with the FTRA installed. Ignoring the other benefits of the FTRA, an 11 degree F drop in intake temps results in 1 % more power. Now add is the increase in VE and fuel economy and I think you will see why the system is so popular
It's on sale for 159.99 right now by the way
For the best performance, you do need an aftermarket lid. A smooth bellows and ported TB will work well with the system as well.
Make SURE you have a positive seal for the best performance. Most people forget this step and they are leaving a lot of HP on the table.
Edit: Nevermind. I see that the tests were done with the car moving. Pretty cool (no pun intended).
05-09-2006, 05:41 PM
#74
Originally Posted by ShevrolayZ28
Hey that's good to know but were the IAT readings taken with the car moving?
Edit: Nevermind. I see that the tests were done with the car moving. Pretty cool (no pun intended).
Edit: Nevermind. I see that the tests were done with the car moving. Pretty cool (no pun intended).
On a side note, the ram air kit also cools off the IAT temps faster when the car goes from sitting to moving than the factory set up, free cold air mod and SLP set up.
05-09-2006, 05:44 PM
#75
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Originally Posted by Fast Toys Performance Parts
If you want to see if a particular setup is working, look at your IAT temps.
Great point. My IAT's are +- 2*F of ambeint at speeds > 30mph with the Volant (dual cone w/ gutted WS6 hood). Somehow I missed the FTRA when I was looking for an intake. Would have given it a shot had I found it then.
05-10-2006, 01:57 AM
#76
Originally Posted by TAQuickness
Great point. My IAT's are +- 2*F of ambeint at speeds > 30mph with the Volant (dual cone w/ gutted WS6 hood). Somehow I missed the FTRA when I was looking for an intake. Would have given it a shot had I found it then.
06-16-2006, 05:28 PM
#77
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Originally Posted by Fast Toys Performance Parts
Make SURE you have a positive seal for the best performance. Most people forget this step and they are leaving a lot of HP on the table.
How do you go about thoroughly testing for a positve seal?
k&N FIPK all the way!!!! 
my lil' LT1
07-12-2006, 07:32 AM
#79
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I have the FIPK. The rumor/myth that it sucks in too much hot air...IMO, is true. My car just flat out runs hotter since I put it on. For comparison, in the summer, the car feels alot more sluggish than when I had the stock lid on it.
The car does not pull nearly as hard in 3rd or 4th. I have an SS, so what little ram air I had is completely gone and I could tell right away. The car used to be a beast in 3rd and 4th...not anymore.
The only advantages I can say about it are it feels a little stronger in 1st and 2nd (which usually go up in smoke anyways) and you get the cool open intake sound.
If I could do it over, I would have just gotten a lid.
Like somone mentioned before, I plan on cutting out a big chunk of the metal panel under the filter, that might help a little, maybe even see if I can rig some type of ram air into it.
But like others have said, the fact that it is not sealed, I think is a problem.
The car does not pull nearly as hard in 3rd or 4th. I have an SS, so what little ram air I had is completely gone and I could tell right away. The car used to be a beast in 3rd and 4th...not anymore.
The only advantages I can say about it are it feels a little stronger in 1st and 2nd (which usually go up in smoke anyways) and you get the cool open intake sound.
If I could do it over, I would have just gotten a lid.
Like somone mentioned before, I plan on cutting out a big chunk of the metal panel under the filter, that might help a little, maybe even see if I can rig some type of ram air into it.
But like others have said, the fact that it is not sealed, I think is a problem.
