Newbie here, a few dumb Qs
I got it on the dyno the other day and it put down 315 hp and 324 tq. bone stock w/ 9500 miles on it. I'm happy w/ those #s but I'm ready for the bolt-ons to commence.
Anyways I have a few questions:
-Intakes; I think I've narrowed it down to either the Volant or BMR fabrication (bmrfabrication.com) Is there any real power differences b/w the open filter type and the lid type?
-Mass air meters; I heard the Granatelli sucks and to go w/ the LS6 screenless. Any suggestions?
-Gears; I plan on installing 4.10s very soon. They have always been the best bang-for the-buck w/ mustangs and I figure this applies here as well (?). Is the HPP3 worth it from a h.p standpoint or should I just get the SLP reaclibrator? And also, what is this "paddle" stuff? No idea there.
-Spring; I plan on getting the Eibach pro-kit. Are the relocation brackets really necessary? Weld in or bolt in?
Sorry so long and so many questions but I'm a little new to this chevy stuff <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />
I heard as far as LS-1s go this is by far the best site. Any help would be greatly appreciated. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />
Al
Here's a pic of yer diff: http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...&SHOWEMAIL=Off
Note the big@*** hole where the thrustblock goes in the center of the diff. That's the thrust block sitting at the bottom of the pic. With the fatter ring gear, the stock block don't fit, so SLP sells the "paddle kit" (2 pieces "paddle" past each other? Or maybe it's 'cause they look like paddles?) http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...&SHOWEMAIL=Off
Grinding the stock block (only enough to clear the fat 4.10 ring gear) is fine. Get GM Motive gears. They're about the best (and least hassle).
Yer in the wrong forum for suspension Q's, but I can reiterate what Dark said. I have the SLP LT's and can't hardly make it over the painted lines in the road with them...




