Shopping for some AN fittings to mount my new fuel pressure guage I went to a local speed shop. As I talked to the owner (a Camaro guy) he showed me all the goodies he had for the LS1 around the store. When he pulled out the ASP pully I about S**t! I figured I would be waiting for months til all you guys got yours and stock became plentiful...so I bought it. I think I paid a little more than mailorder and it came with no belts (another $50) but what the !@#$*...

I searched here and elsewhere for install tips and was concerned as some people seem to have all kinds of trouble with this. I also followed Ebbsnflows web site install (www.ebbsnflows.cz28.com) great install info!!! Thanks Ebbs!

My son and I went to it this evening. We put the car up on Rino Ramps and I was concerned with the limited room under the front ....especially since my car is lowered. I got the Sears pully puller (#00946906000) and a 20 inch breakerbar from a friend at work. Pep Boys had a 250 ftlb torque wrench for loan so I was all set!
After removing the belts I slid the breakerbar over my socket wrench and, lying on my back, pushed on the breaker with steady pressure and to my suprise the bolt moved! My bolt came out like the factory forgot to torque it!!?? It was pretty tight but I expected more trouble. The next challenge was the puller as I have never used one let alone put one together (the sears model is unassembled and can be used as a 2 or 3 jaw puller) Once I got it together (I printed out the Sears catalog entry for it so I had a photo of how it should look) I had trouble with the air conditioner hard-line to the compressor and the hose attached to it as it runs right in front of the pulley between the fans. Some gentle pulling moved it far enough to orient the puller on the pulley. I threaded the old pulley bolt about 1 1/2 turns and then figured this would be where the wailing and nashing of teeth and beer guzzling would start....After getting the puller in position and preloaded with tension on the bolt I decided to put my fingers between the pulley and the block to see if I could fel any movement as I tightened the puller. At first I felt nothing but after 3 1/4 turns the pulley moved! I'm sorry for those who have had a hard time with this but I found it to be one of the easiest mods so far! When I got the pulley out to the bolt washer and could go no further I found a socket that was about the same size as the crank and put it in the hole in place of the bolt...but the puller tip might have ruined the socket so I used a cheap 1/2 inch extension in the socket and put the puller tip in the extender. The thought of hitting the pulley with a hammer was not appealing to me and this worked like a charm! A couple more turns of the puller and the pulley fell right off! I greased the ASP and expected it to be a tight fit but it slid on about 1/2 to 3/4 inch right off! Self aligning! I used the old crank bolt to rachet the pulley on and this is probably the part that was the hardest! I could not get 240 lbs. ft. onto that bolt! I finally got it by lying on my back and proping my feet on the inside of the tires/rims and pulling like hell! And getting it back off was more difficult than the initial pulley removal too. One thing that was unexpected...when I removed the bolt to put the new one on there were metal shavings on the pulley middle...! I guess from the pressfit of the pulley. There were no shavings from the removal so I figue it is just part of the install process and the new puley gets "shaved" as it is torqued on. Also there was a film of motor oil in the hole left after I removed the stock pulley...I did not expect to see that.. I hope I do not have a leaking front seal?? The 120 degrees was hard too since I had little movement of the rachet under there so I eyeballed 90 degrees (after the 37 lbs. ft. on first tightening) and then added a couple clicks of the rachet to the 90.
I should also mention the car was warm since it had only been about 1 1/2 hours since I drove it...the heated block/crank/etc. might have helped!?? I could touch it and hold my hand on the block so I did not worry about working on it....I figure this is probably what I shop would do.....they don't have the time to make sure your engine is cold before getting into it (for the most part) so I figured I was safe.

Took a short drive and SOTP tells me the motor is more responsive and seemed to be working less and getting up to revs a bit sooner...but this could have been the weather since it was in the 90's again here today and now the eve is cooler...I'll check tomorrow...

Hope this info helps someone!

Jeff

 

I just did mine but wussed out and did it at my local midas where I know the guys and they do all sorts of custom stuff on my cars for me.It of course was super easy on the drive on hoist and much easier maybe as I just took off and reninstalled the factory pulley as no asp's were on planet earth when I did my cam this spring.It went fine..three jaw puller and just wiretied the hose in the way or whatever it was..it came off fine..went back on fine..not sure why they have that stupid 37 foot pounds with the new bolt and then 120 or whatever degrees..we just made sure the darn thing was good and tight and used loctite and new bolt of course..actually 120 degrees will make it way tighter than 37 ft pounds so not sure why they didn't just measure the ft pounds at 120 degrees or whatever..gm??
I didn't notice much from this mod but maybe my tazzo vpc will show an improvement..I can't really tell if the car is revving faster..it revved pretty darn fast before.I think its a very easy mod.Of course I just sat and watched..LOL