Problem installing new idler pulley
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 254
Likes: 1
From: Rice Lake, WI
Problem installing new idler pulley I bought a replacement idler pulley from napa but had a problem installing it using the existing front and back plates ... the dome on the front of the pulley was different, and front plate didn't fit correctly. I managed to screw up the back plate putting the original back one back on. Hopefully they sell plates that work with it ... has anyone else run into this?
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...rtNum=12564401
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...rtNum=12564401
All I can say is check to make sure they gave you the right Idler Pulley. There are (2) on the car that look alike. When I went to replace my tensioner pulley (I am assuming this is the one you are replacing) I bought what they ststed was the correct P/N for the pulley at Advanced Auto.
When I got it back home I ran into problems with the offset being wrong and pretty much the same things you saw. The center boss was shorter and it made the pulley actually bottom out around the outer edge when the center bolt was tightened.
After some research I found that they sold me the idler pulley that is right above the alternator. I took it back, but they stated that was the only P/N they listed and it was supposedly for the tensioner.
I just returned it and bought one from GM for $15. Since then I bought an aluminum version that I had chromed and it also has a bearing that is capable of replacement - so next time the bearing goes - all I have to do is put in a new one and not replace the entire pulley
-Jay-
When I got it back home I ran into problems with the offset being wrong and pretty much the same things you saw. The center boss was shorter and it made the pulley actually bottom out around the outer edge when the center bolt was tightened.
After some research I found that they sold me the idler pulley that is right above the alternator. I took it back, but they stated that was the only P/N they listed and it was supposedly for the tensioner.
I just returned it and bought one from GM for $15. Since then I bought an aluminum version that I had chromed and it also has a bearing that is capable of replacement - so next time the bearing goes - all I have to do is put in a new one and not replace the entire pulley
-Jay-
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 254
Likes: 1
From: Rice Lake, WI
I was using the tutorial at install university, the GM part number crossed referenced to the part I got so I believe it's the correct one.
I wonder now if the front and back plate are needed? I notice on the box for the new pulley it says:
"The bearing in this product is greased and sealed and therefore does not require the dust cover that m ay be used on the original pulley. Check for interference before reusing the original dust cover".
What do you think?
I wonder now if the front and back plate are needed? I notice on the box for the new pulley it says:
"The bearing in this product is greased and sealed and therefore does not require the dust cover that m ay be used on the original pulley. Check for interference before reusing the original dust cover".
What do you think?
I had the same problem. For whatever reason, GM used two different idler pulleys on the LS1. I tried several different auto parts stores and got ones from different manufacturers. None of them fit. I had to get it from the dealer and even they got me the wrong one the first time. Bring your original one with you and make sure they match exactly. I didn't save the reciept so I don't have a part number.
Robert
Robert
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 254
Likes: 1
From: Rice Lake, WI
Just an update ... the guy at the parts store said it doesn't use the dust plate, but when I tried it without the rear plate it doesn't line up right ... and of course my rear plate is bad so I had to order a new pulley from GM to get the plates, they don't sell them seperately.
