I got in the gp for the jet hot hooker lts and off road pipe, i was wondering if i am goingo to have to order anything to install them??? I know nothing about this and any help would be appreciated. Thanx in advance.

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I just reused the stock gaskets and bolts, but alot of guys buy new things. I am not sure about the hooker flanges for the y pipe/header connection, they probably give you everything. A new clamp for the ypipe/ipipe connection my not hurt either. When i installed my macs the o2 sensor wires were too short to reach and i had to cut and splice the wires and then tape them up.

 

Get a good set of gear wrenches. The 10mm will come in most handy that day <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> Also, not sure if the hooker Y-Pipe requires you to cut the catback, but if it does don't think you're gonna do it with a hacksaw. I mean you could but you'll thank yourself for using a sawsall instead. Also you'll need several different sized extentions and swivals for your socket set. Good luck.

Mike

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by LS1FenixBird99:
<strong> I know nothing about this and any help would be appreciated. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">1. Find someone where you live who does, and see if they can help.

2. A drive on type hoist would be nice, you need to get the car high enough to get those lt's on.

3. A pair of Mechanix Wear ( brand name ) gloves, you should be able to find them at any AutoZone store.

4. Tools that work great are, Craftman 3/8 drive offset flex ratchet, 3" nurled end spark plug socket, 1" extension, these are just a few of the tools you need but may not be in your tool chest.

I've never installed Hooker lts on a f-body so some of these may not apply.

5. Remove the transmission cross brace, push it to the left side ( drivers side ) when installing the passengers side header.

6. This may sound dumb but put a shop rag into the motor mount area, if you drop a bolt or spark plug down there you'll play hell getting it out ( I know ).

7. Use anti-sieze on all nuts and bolts.

8. If Hooker sells an install kit like SLP sells for there lts get it.

9. Stage eight header bolts would be a good idea, also use new gaskets.

10. If you need to remove the the coil packs on the passenger side you can leave off the rear nut or bolt ( can't remember which one it is ), it's a PITA to remove and it really doesn't need to re-installed.

My best advise is to work safely, Remember dead guys can't work on cars.

Here's a picture of some of the tools I was talking about, good luck.

Al

<img src="http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QQAAAHIXsgE0R5T6RXqzvyqhKoTQQhBvNHsGUVubc31KIOw4h T3UbhMhVNXn!4YZ1e*dB13Lw!KOkr2WWEu70N*JTiru8uaNNhj !VIBhoQY/sparkplug-tools.jpg" alt=" - " />

 

That is all really good advice. The only thing I would add to it is, since you will have the manifolds off, you are better off changing the spark plugs/wires now. It makes it much easier to do, and should only take 5 minutes.

 

If i dont have o2 sims yet, would i be able to drive my car for a while without them???

 

Yeah, but you'll have a SES light untill you get em. No big deal.

Good advice above. Couple of things I can add is BE PATIENT. You will get pissed off at some point during this install. Just take a break and come back to it later. Also, try very hard not to drop any of the header bolts when removing or installing. They find the craziest places to hide.

Jay