ok guys I installed SLP Longtube headers last year on my 2000 firehawk and after the install there was a very noticable ticking coming from right before the collector on the passenger side header.

It is not an exhaust leak. There was no ticking sound before the header install. I posted this a long time ago on that other ls1 board and someone sent me a link to this page describing the AIR system block off plates which were basically restictor plates which kept something from fluttering I'm not really sure but I did it anyway and this did nothing to solve my ticking problem. I've learned to live with the ticking since then but now I want it gone and this is why.

I just recently autotapped the car and it turns out I am getting 3 degrees of knock retard which I believe to be false knock due to the ticking sound. If anyone has any ideas as to what this sound could be please lemme know.

Also, If I were to remove the EGR and put block off plates on I know this would throw a code with the computer. But would this affect performance in anyway?

 

I am 99.9% positive that it's not the headers hitting something. Because I only get it above like 3000 rpms or something. If I were to just mash the pedal at low rpms in 1st gear i would be getting knock if the headers were hitting something wouldn't I?

Also I have not had this motor internally apart what so ever. Do you think that the rockers could have loosened up since the factory?

 

Also the ticking is there regardless but I only get the knock under load. If I were to push in the clutch and rev it up high it does not knock.

I run Sunoco 94 gas and this is an otherwise completely stock engine.

 

Aftermarket headers even if they are ceramic coated are generally single walled units. This compared to double walled and sometimes with a heat shield factory units. That's why you'll hear more valvetrain ticking with an aftermarket set of headers.

If you are getting KR, and you're positive it's coming from inside the headers (NOT the headers banging against something), then I'd check to see that your pushrods are properly progressively torqued down 22" pounds. Perhaps you're getting some valve float and the valve is banging against the valve seat in the head. Slack in the drivetrain somewhere could be causing this KR.

Now if the headers are banging against something, that itself needs to be looked at cause that too can cause KR.

As to blocking off your EGR, you then either need LS1 Edit or an aftermarket tuner to turn off the provision in your PCM to eliminate throwing an SES code. It would most likely result in KR from running too lean.

However, with everyone eliminating their EGR system, I wouldn't be so quick to jump on the badnwagon. Common excuses (other than people being lazy to reinstall it) is that they fear it'll be a future problem and possibly lead to a vacuum leak. That's like saying having sex even with protection could still lead to my partner getting pregnant, so I'm going to remove my sex organs. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" />

The purpose of the EGR system is to re-route unburned exhaust back into the intake and back into the combustion chamber in order to re-burn it therefore resulting in more complete combustion which equals cleaner emissions. It does this at light to mid throttle applications. You can see the EGR turning on and off in these situations if you have autotap and select that item in AutoTap.

I thought about deleting mine when I did the LS6 intake, but decided against it and kept it. I must say, I'm glad I plumbed the system back in. The engine in those light to mid throttle applications is soo smooth, linear and tractible because the EGR is doing it's job.

<small>[ August 28, 2002, 12:14 PM: Message edited by: CMNTMXR57 ]</small>