Hotcam
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waldwick, NJ
Hotcam What does a hot cam do, I have heard people raving about it and I thought it was a lot more expensive than $400.
What does it do, everything from performance to nagative stuff, to increased sound from exhaust if any? Also if I need previous mods bfore this mod.
I am totally clueless on this mod, please do as much explaining as possible.
What does it do, everything from performance to nagative stuff, to increased sound from exhaust if any? Also if I need previous mods bfore this mod.
I am totally clueless on this mod, please do as much explaining as possible.
Re: Hotcam As Grinch mentioned, you don't want to be doing a cam swap unless you really know what the consequences can be. A search for "hotcam" should give at least a day's worth of reading <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
With that said here are some (long) random thoughts on the hotcam:
1) Is your car M6 or A4? It makes a difference (A4 will most likely require programming, while M6 should handle the cam with only minor tweaking).
2) The hotcam is a standard split pattern with a 112* lope separation so it will have a choppy idle unless you raise the idle speed. Plan on setting P0300 random misfire codes on a regular basis due to rough idle (this isn't hotcam specific though).
3) The hotcam is a relatively low lift cam (0.525/0.525) with mild ramp rates so it will be easier on valve springs than some of the more aggressive cams. The kit comes with '01 LS6 springs, which are up to the task (but not much more <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> ).
4) hotcam power peak when installed dot-dot will be around 6100rpm so you will want to raise your rev limiter to around 6500rpm to take full advantage.
5) after installation you'll want to monitor your IAC counts with AutoTap or similar diagnostic software. Most likely enlarging of the throttle body hole will be required to allow the car to idle. You'll want IAC counts around 25-35 when fully warmed up.
6) this cam will exhibit cam surge under 1500rpm so it may not be what you want in a daily driver.
7) the whole kit (cam, springs, retainers) can be had for around $400, which makes for a nice bargain. BUT, with all the labor/effort it takes to install a cam I would recommend against saving a $100 on the parts. When you buy a cam make damn sure it fits your goals and then worry about the $$.
8) the hotcam will not make the same power as some of the MTI, TR, etc. cams (from what I've seen maybe 10-15 rwhp less). But you also won't need to worry about valve springs, etc. It will also make good mid-range torque so its a nice street cam.
9) Here are some things you should plan to have access to when doing a cam swap - AutoTap (or similar software), MAFT and HPP3 or LS1Edit, and a laptop for the former.
10) Finally, when doing the cam you will be well served to replace the timing chain and oil pump while you're in there. I would recommend the Katech pump and chain or the Rollmaster chain set (double roller or single row).
If it were me I'd contact Thunder Racing and talk to them about your goals and which of their cams would be right for you.
With that said here are some (long) random thoughts on the hotcam:
1) Is your car M6 or A4? It makes a difference (A4 will most likely require programming, while M6 should handle the cam with only minor tweaking).
2) The hotcam is a standard split pattern with a 112* lope separation so it will have a choppy idle unless you raise the idle speed. Plan on setting P0300 random misfire codes on a regular basis due to rough idle (this isn't hotcam specific though).
3) The hotcam is a relatively low lift cam (0.525/0.525) with mild ramp rates so it will be easier on valve springs than some of the more aggressive cams. The kit comes with '01 LS6 springs, which are up to the task (but not much more <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> ).
4) hotcam power peak when installed dot-dot will be around 6100rpm so you will want to raise your rev limiter to around 6500rpm to take full advantage.
5) after installation you'll want to monitor your IAC counts with AutoTap or similar diagnostic software. Most likely enlarging of the throttle body hole will be required to allow the car to idle. You'll want IAC counts around 25-35 when fully warmed up.
6) this cam will exhibit cam surge under 1500rpm so it may not be what you want in a daily driver.
7) the whole kit (cam, springs, retainers) can be had for around $400, which makes for a nice bargain. BUT, with all the labor/effort it takes to install a cam I would recommend against saving a $100 on the parts. When you buy a cam make damn sure it fits your goals and then worry about the $$.
8) the hotcam will not make the same power as some of the MTI, TR, etc. cams (from what I've seen maybe 10-15 rwhp less). But you also won't need to worry about valve springs, etc. It will also make good mid-range torque so its a nice street cam.
9) Here are some things you should plan to have access to when doing a cam swap - AutoTap (or similar software), MAFT and HPP3 or LS1Edit, and a laptop for the former.
10) Finally, when doing the cam you will be well served to replace the timing chain and oil pump while you're in there. I would recommend the Katech pump and chain or the Rollmaster chain set (double roller or single row).
If it were me I'd contact Thunder Racing and talk to them about your goals and which of their cams would be right for you.
