I finally went to have my BMR tubular subframes welded in today, and when I got the passenger side up to be lined up, the damn thing welds to the L shaped extension on the floorboard. I don't know what to do now. My Pro-Chassis subframes on my LT1 all attach directly to the subframe. Not only that but the end of the subframes are all boxed on the Pro Chassis instead of flat plates on the BMR. The inside of the tubing is also exposed on the passenger side and free to collect dirt, water, and whatever else gets in there. Needless to say I am quite disappointed in the quality. Problem is I can't find Pro Chassis subframes anywhere. What are the best Subframes? Does anyone make subframe connectors that the endplates are boxed and weld on all three sides of the subframe? Should I go with Double diamonds and forget about the tubular subframes, ground clearance issues or not. Does anyone have a problem with their BMR's, do you have another subframe connector that attaches correctly? Any opinions appreciated. TIA

 

I've never been disappointed by anything BMR has made. I have the boxed subframes. The boxed are stonger than the tubular and have no flaws except for lower ground clearance. My headers hang lower than the subframes so that isn't much of an issue for me.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Blue Meanie-:
<strong>I finally went to have my BMR tubular subframes welded in today, and when I got the passenger side up to be lined up, the damn thing welds to the L shaped extension on the floorboard. I don't know what to do now. My Pro-Chassis subframes on my LT1 all attach directly to the subframe. Not only that but the end of the subframes are all boxed on the Pro Chassis instead of flat plates on the BMR. The inside of the tubing is also exposed on the passenger side and free to collect dirt, water, and whatever else gets in there. Needless to say I am quite disappointed in the quality. Problem is I can't find Pro Chassis subframes anywhere. What are the best Subframes? Does anyone make subframe connectors that the endplates are boxed and weld on all three sides of the subframe? Should I go with Double diamonds and forget about the tubular subframes, ground clearance issues or not. Does anyone have a problem with their BMR's, do you have another subframe connector that attaches correctly? Any opinions appreciated. TIA</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I have the SLP Subframes and they work pretty well but the only drawback to them is you can't use the BMR Xtreme style torque arm. You only have the option of using the Spohn and the upcoming Wolfe Torque arm if you want to relocate the Torque arm pinion point.

And as far as the spohn goes on the quality of the torque arm itself, thumbs up, but the supplied crossmember has a nasty passenger side flange that doesn't have properly drilled bolt holes and doesn't align properly with double-diamond style subframes, also their driveshaft loop commonly leaves clearance issues and in my case the driveshaft hit the loop a couple of times. Also for reference the spohn rear loop DOES NOT clear the SLP Loudmouth and It might be a tight fit for any 3" exaust.

I know your question is regarding the Subframes but if you plan on a Torque arm in the future it's stuff you'll need to know. I the the double-diamond style subframes make more sense when you think about how they tie the subframes together, the BMR style subframes are more like a subframe brace.