Header install problem
Header install problem It seems like every time I have something done to my car, or I do something to my car it always gets F*CKED up 
. With the header install we took out the air pump, exhaust manifold, y pipe, dip stick, wires, and 7 & 1/2 plugs . The infamous #8 plug bent me over and drilled me hard. It broke off after the bolt, so now there is nothing to hold on to the plug to get it out . I am lost at what to do with this now 
. Any suggestions besides removing the head? Any help would be appreciated. 
This is what I feel like doing
.
. With the header install we took out the air pump, exhaust manifold, y pipe, dip stick, wires, and 7 & 1/2 plugs . The infamous #8 plug bent me over and drilled me hard. It broke off after the bolt, so now there is nothing to hold on to the plug to get it out . I am lost at what to do with this now . Any suggestions besides removing the head? Any help would be appreciated. This is what I feel like doing. So just the thread part of the plug is in the head?? With it being the #8 Your probly going to have to pull the head. When putting the new plugs in put some hi temp antiseze on the threads.
You should be able to fish the ceramic out of the center of the threads. Then insert an easy out into the hole and back it out slowly. So long as you get the center ceramic out and insure you have all of it you should have no problem. You can also vacuum the cylinder out to make sure nothing is left in there. Go and rent a scope to double check everything when you are done.
Originally Posted by 2005SSR6Speed
You should be able to fish the ceramic out of the center of the threads. Then insert an easy out into the hole and back it out slowly. So long as you get the center ceramic out and insure you have all of it you should have no problem. You can also vacuum the cylinder out to make sure nothing is left in there. Go and rent a scope to double check everything when you are done.
Originally Posted by mrhzk35404
I have to ask. How the F did you do this?
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Originally Posted by ShevrolayZ28
I don't know how you'll fix it without removing the head. Might it be time for a nice set of aftermarket heads? 
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Joined: Apr 2006
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it is easy... get the dullest, thickets flat tip that you can find.... Hammer it into the ceramic part of the broken spark plug. Reason why you are using a dull flat tip is so that it would not cut in there & crack the plug. You will feel the ceramic part fall in & get loose. It won't fall all the way in because of the top that goes over the electrode. Once you feel like you got it nice and loose, disconnect the main wires going to your coil packs, and pull your fuel relay, stand clear and turn the engine over a couple of times. Cylinder pressure will shoot it out. Now, all you have to do is use a right size bolt extractor and pull out the threads. Also, take a long piece of hose small enough to fit through the spark plug hole, tape it into your vacuume cleaner with minimal leaks. Now you have super skinny vacuume cleaner hose.. insert that into the cylinder & move it all around - just as a precaution.
Insert a new plug and move on with your life
Once you feel like you got it nice and loose, disconnect the main wires going to your coil packs, and pull your fuel relay, stand clear and turn the engine over a couple of times. Cylinder pressure will shoot it out. Now, all you have to do is use a right size bolt extractor and pull out the threads. Also, take a long piece of hose small enough to fit through the spark plug hole, tape it into your vacuume cleaner with minimal leaks. Now you have super skinny vacuume cleaner hose.. insert that into the cylinder & move it all around - just as a precaution. Insert a new plug and move on with your life
Last edited by Pnsh3r; May 6, 2006 at 02:58 PM.
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From: king of prussia, pa (home) and williamsport, pa (school)
i just broke my rear passenger side header bolt earlier today during my header install. it sucks horrible. i was soooo pissed. ive done everything to avoid this problem, ive sprayed every bolt about 5 times within 2 days with pb blaster. i mean i SOAKED them.
i think if i just put a lot of gasket sealer around the last port then it should be fine. that much compression on the sealer and copper gasket i got should be good enough where no air gets through
i think if i just put a lot of gasket sealer around the last port then it should be fine. that much compression on the sealer and copper gasket i got should be good enough where no air gets through
Originally Posted by emerica4601
i think if i just put a lot of gasket sealer around the last port then it should be fine. that much compression on the sealer and copper gasket i got should be good enough where no air gets through
If the ceramic inside the threaded region can be removed, you can use an ease-out to remove the piece. I'd be willing to bet a few dollars that the manifold smashed into it while you were pulling it out.
Have you ever used an ease-out before?
Keep track of all the pieces that came out, if you're missing any, there's a chance it might be in the cylinder. If you're willing, the best thing to do is to remove the whole head, but this might not be necessary.
I have the correct easy out to pull the threads out, but I cannot seem to break the ceramic out. I have tried all of the suggestions that I have come across and nothing has worked. If I can get the ceramic out, I know that I can get the threads out.
Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
Since it's the part right below the hex-nut section that seats and causes it to get "tight", it should not need that much torque to unscrew it.
What I'm saying is that if the hex nut, and the seating surface broke off, it should not take much to unscrew it. Maby you can just grab it and unscrew it fairly easy with a set of needlenose pliars or something.
Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
What I'm saying is that if the hex nut, and the seating surface broke off, it should not take much to unscrew it. Maby you can just grab it and unscrew it fairly easy with a set of needlenose pliars or something.
This **** happen to me twice. The first time I just took a shopvac and suck all the brocken stuff out, Then I took a shallow well socket and shaved the outer part of it to fit in the hole. Then took a 4in ext put it in the socket when took a small pair of needle nose vicegrips and turnd real slow. And for the headers **** I cross threaded two of them using the shitty bolts they send with the headers. My temp fix was i used the washers that came with the headers (1) and the stock bolts and no leaks.