Finally got around to starting my header install today. Im putting on a set of MAC mids and y-pipe w/cats. Spent about 2 1/2 hours on it today. I got the Lid and MAF off, all the A.I.R. stuff off, the EGR valve off, dipstick out, the coil packs and spark plugs off, and all the O2s off. Didnt seem all that hard so far except the bolt holding on the coilpacks all the way in the back on the passenger side was a bit tricky. but just thought id share with everyone. let me know of any tricks or problems that might come up further on so i know what to expect. thanks alot!

 

sounds like you got it all under control...good luck man and if you need anything just post it. I got Mac mids and love em I am sure you'll be satisfied too.

 

people say to take off the coil packs... but i left mine right on there and it was easy enough to get to the header bolts

 

MAC's are easy...you should not run into any problems with the rest of the install.

 

good luck!

 

leave those rear most coil pack bolts off during reinstall, best tip I can give at this time by sides get the car way up in the area, so you got the room to work, good luck, hope you see decent gains out of those middies.

 

thanks guys. yeah ill definetly be leaving the rear coilpack bolt out on the passenger side...the driver side wasnt that bad. anybody have a real difficult time getting the new MAC headers in. the driver side looks like it will slide in like butter, but the passenger side looks like it could become a PITA.

 

no experience with the mac headers, but I pulled the oil filter and drain plug to make sliding the driver side header in easier. The passanger side went in no problem if memory serves me correctly. The driver side was the pain in the ***. I had to stack (2) 2x4's and a Yellow Pages on my floor jack to get the car high enough for the driver side headers.

Also, IMO, in order to avoid additional headaches down the road, most guys pull the coilpacks cause it's easier to remove the plugs this way. You'll want to remove the spark plugs to avoid hitting them with the manifolds or headers and cracking them.

 

thanks man. i need to change my oil anyway so i guess ill go ahead and pull out the filter. and i already got all the coil packs and plugs out.

 

well i worked on it for about 45 min today after class before i went to work. i got all the header bolts out and all the bolts on the flanges connecting the headers to y-pipe out. i couldnt get the headers out due to the clearence i had today..i didnt have time to jack the car up anymore, so they are just chillin there until tomarrow. ill be posting if i have any trouble getting the new ones in.

 

just a heads up... i dunno how mid lengths are, but with my lts i had to cut a small casting block off my engine when i installed the drivers side header...

 

You can avoid that by loosening the passanger motor mount and jack the engine up just enough for the header to slide by. I have done 3 pairs od Macs and that is the cleanest way to do it.. IMHO

 

awesome thanks for the advice!! any problems to watch out for on the passenger side?

 

UPDATE!!
Well i got all the stock exhaust off and i got the drivers side header in. It went in with no problem. i wish i could say the same with the passenger side. i couldnt get the damn thing in there. it was that stupid block casting on the side of the motor. im only missing it by about 1/6 of an inch. so whats the easiest thing to do, grind it away?? thanks for any help

 

Please use good quality jackstands on a solid level surface to do your install. 2X4s and yellow pages are a prescription for disaster. If you install your headers from the bottom you don't need to remove the coil packs. Besides if you install from the top you have to get around the heater hoses and A/C hose. Much easier to come in from the bottom.

 

yeah i have 6 ton jack stands supporting the car. no phone books or boards needed, cars up high enough. anybody have a better idea of getting the passenger side header in?

 

you are hitting that casting block that i hit on the drivers side... i would just cut if off with a hack saw (takes a few min)... i couldnt get a grinder in their and didnt trust my ability to hold it steady enough to not screw anything up....

personally i say screw the motor mount thing

just cut off the casting block and you will be good as gold

 

sounds good. hopefully i can get at the right angle with a hack saw. thanks for the help