Do I have this cutout on right??
If you tap the switch quickly after its closed it wont back up. When the switch is held and the plate stops moving the motor torques a little and when you let go of the switch the motor rolls back.
I just had mine replaced today. I was having the same problem. I got in touch with QTP and they told me the motor was their last design. They now use a higher torque motor that is not supposed to kick back open. The motors look a little larger.
Give them a call.
Give them a call.
Kelly, I think I have mine turned the other way, I am not having the problem, but mine is the newer version according to this thread. If you want me to, I will look and make sure that its on the way I say, I will get back from the beach tmrw
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area CA
Originally Posted by keliente
It's used. They offered to rebuild it if I send it back in, so after this next track day, I will.
Everyone is talking about a new design now, but mine is over a year old so I think it's the old design.
IIRC they will re-build it for you at around $30, which I'm not sure includes S/H. Judging by what you have on your site, I think you're definently more then qualified to take it apart yourself and rebuild it . Shouldn't take more then an hour at most.
I've re-built it twice already, since the first time I didn't use lok-tite and it worked loose. The second time I went through it fully and used all new bolts/screws and made sure everything was torqued down good. Like i said, in my case the fact that the motor was a little loose allowed the gears to flew inside enough to the point where they would be able to let the plate slip a little.
okay I put my qtec on 1 month ago and in the instuction it says not to hold the switch down as this could put excess load on the motor and create slack in it causing it to leak. instead it says to bump the switch until you hear its shut. well I followed this and mine had a slight leak you couldn't hear it inside unless there was a curb right next to the car or you where by the passenger door on the outside. So how I fixed ine was I took a piece of exhaust gasket(I used the ones that came with my pacesetters). I cut it to fit the lips that are on the body(top&bottom 90deg of from the axis that the blade rotates on) of the cutout that the blade seals against. I took a piece of sandpaper(220 i think) and sanded on one side of the gasket to make it a little thinner and rougher I then took a clean finger and rubbed all the loose particles off of the gasket since this is the side you'll glue and then roughed up the metal on the cutout and used a good epoxy and made sure not to get it every where then I used a exacto knife and the sanpaper to make it match perfect. I've had it on for 1.5 weeks now and when closed there are no leaks at all.
edit
you just have to make sure whatever you use isn't to thick or the blade will not close far enough and it could leak from the sides. as the profile of the blade in the cutout would be more of a elipse than circular.
edit
you just have to make sure whatever you use isn't to thick or the blade will not close far enough and it could leak from the sides. as the profile of the blade in the cutout would be more of a elipse than circular.
Last edited by lt1formula2000; May 19, 2006 at 08:51 AM.
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
There is no specific side to install our valves.
A trick we noticed to help seal the cut-out is to take the actualy valve off the car and lay some RTV on the lip where it seems to be leaking. Close the valve over the wet RTV and let it sit over night forming a rubber like seal. Open the cut out the next day and it should seperate leaving a "bed" of RTV. That should help cure your problem.
We usually use a soft mallet to straighten the butter fly out as well. These problems can accur from over-tourqing the motor by holding the switch to long.
By the way new motors are $30 a pop and figure $5 for shipping, we can also rebuild the valve for $30, but you have to cover S/H. Defenitly give us a call if you guys have any questions!
A trick we noticed to help seal the cut-out is to take the actualy valve off the car and lay some RTV on the lip where it seems to be leaking. Close the valve over the wet RTV and let it sit over night forming a rubber like seal. Open the cut out the next day and it should seperate leaving a "bed" of RTV. That should help cure your problem.
We usually use a soft mallet to straighten the butter fly out as well. These problems can accur from over-tourqing the motor by holding the switch to long.
By the way new motors are $30 a pop and figure $5 for shipping, we can also rebuild the valve for $30, but you have to cover S/H. Defenitly give us a call if you guys have any questions!
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