I have done and endless amount of searching and what not, and still have a few questions and a setup question. So far I know I want coated Pacesetters, and a Y-Pipe because I need to keep my cats in Cali. I know Im breaking it already with the longtubes, but I just dont want to risk the cats. After the headers and Y Pipe, I dont know what kind of catback. I want something as loud as possible, I want sound, and lots of it. But at the same time Im on a budget so I need to keep it pretty cheap, hence the Pacesetters. Once I have the exhaust, Im hoping to delete the O2 sensors in the back, but if I do that, is there anyway to pass the smog in the future if I swap everything back? Might sound dumb, but can I bring those back? Or do I basically have to do it illegaly each time? What other codes can I delete to make sure the SES Light doesnt come on? How much am I looking at for installation ? If its too much, I'll probably end up doing it with a couple of friends.

EDIT: EGR and AIR...These two confuse the hell out of me still, what do I need to do with them for the headers. If anything...sorry, Im kinda of a noob

 

You can just use the simms the o2s are active, the simms just make the PCM think everything back there is fine, or you can have the tuner check "no error reported-SES light enable" to make the OBD2 test overlook the deleted o2 codes.
For the AIR/EGR you can get the headers with the fittings for those systems, and keep them hooked up, or you can get race style and rip all that out, I'd leave it in since you have a visual as well as a sniffer, going to make it easier to swap it back to stock come inspection time (no losing parts because you ripped them out and tossed the pieces in a box somewhere)
As for a loud catback, if you just want a loud as **** car, SLP loudmouth one of (if not the ) loudest catbacks you'll find

 

Well the biggest issue is in CA moving the CATS is illegal and you’ll fail a visual inspection with any form of LT or Mid length header.

Lt’s and a Catted Y ‘should’ pass a sniffer test but it’s risky, especially if you want a “pull me over” exhaust as well.

Shortie headers should be ok, but to be fully legal they need to be CARB approved.

AIR – This uses a small air pump and pumps outside air into the exhaust. It generally runs for 20 seconds or so at start up. It is there to help promote a chemical reaction in the CATS making them more efficient to pass the start up emissions standards. The AIR system costs you ZERO HP.

EGR – This is exhaust gas recirculation, basically a small amount of inert gas (i.e. exhaust) gas is fed from the exhaust back to the intake manifold. This helps reduce PEAK combustion temperatures which in turn reduce Nox emissions. At Wide Open Throttle (WOT) the EGR system is deactivated, so it costs you ZERO HP and no loss to performance.

If you went with Lt’s you’ll need the ‘emissions’ ones as opposed to the ‘race’ ones. The only difference being the fittings for AIR/EGR. There is no performance difference.

Personally I don’t think I’d run the risk of running Lt’s in CA, but the choice is yours to make.

Most of the HP gain to be had from the exhaust comes from scavenging. Lt’s are the only option for this. Flow rate has little affect on a n/a motor. The stock manifolds flow fairly well although the 2001-2 model year received better flowing headers. Shorties will outflow the stock ones but they don’t scavenge and as the stock ones are already flowing sufficiently then most people don’t see much gain with them, typically 2-5rwhp.

Making big power in CA is not easy, especially in n/a form. Forced Induction (FI) would be the best bet, but it’s also pricey. Shortie headers will actually work as well as LT’s on a blown application, this is because scavenging doesn’t take place in an FI application and flow rate is more important, in this instance

If you’re sticking n/a then I think you would be better off looking at a different setup:
-lid
-FTRA
-ported TB and LS6 intake
or
-FAST 90 intake and Nick Williams 90mm TB
-Lightweight flywheel
-Pulleys
-Electric water pump
-Good catback and high flow cats
-And a cam, some thing emissions legal. I think the Thunder Racing CheaTR cam might work

If you wanted you could add shorties to the list, just to complete the setup but I doubt you’d see much gain in HP.

I would also seriously consider some nitrous with all the safety features, anywhere from a 100-150 shot.

Also gears and if auto a stall.

By not getting LT’s and ORY it will give you almost enough money for the cam and install kit.

As for catbacks, well it’s very much personal taste. If you’re on a budget perhaps look at 2nd hand as well as new ones?

If you want loud then the SLP Loudmouth is certainly a good contended, but be warned it IS loud! The TSP Rumbler is essentially a mild steel Loudmouth with a Dynomax bullet instead of a SLP resonator, again it will be loud. With either of these systems you could always swap the muffler with a different bullet (Borla, Maganflow) to achieve a different tone.

Hooker is cheap but generally accepted as pretty quiet. The Maganflow flows very well but again is not the loudest of setups. GMMG is pricey but very nice and loud also. Borla and Corsa are pretty expensive too and are not to everyone’s tastes.

Check out www.ls1sounds.com for sound clips.

TSP also offer the Rumbler X duals, these dump before the axle and are LOUD but sound excellent. They may a sensible option if you decide against the Lt’s and ORY. Failing that a custom dual exhaust shouldn’t be that expensive.

Personally I’d stay clear of the Flowmaster, it’s cheap but doesn’t flow great.

 

Thanks for the information guys.

THis looks like its going to be it though:

Longtube Pacesetters-
Pacesetter Y Pipe -

Im going to go ahead and have the rear o2 sensors tuned out. For right now I might go straight piping but leave my EGR and AIR things on. Anything else I need to worry about?

 

sounds good

 

I'd reccomend a catted Y and, if you're looking for LOUD, get SLP's Loudmouth. However, it's "Pull me over"-kind of loud, especially in CA.

Maybe Borla? Magnaflow?