Newbie ? I searched :)
Newbie ? I searched :) I had lt headers installed put the sims in the rear 02's and the next day I got a bank 2 sensor 1 code, I thought this might happen because when I bought the car the previous owner told me he got a check engine light due to the drivers side upstream 02 (bank 1 sensor 1) and he had that one replaced but not the passenger side... so I replaced the passenger side one and the had the light cleared... a few days later I now have a bank1 sensor 1 code, my question is after reading and searching the faq's I noticed this statement...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/500407-egr-air-o2-sensors-motor-tranny-mount-faq.html
"Rear O2 sensors - Emissions control "tattler". Reads the exhaust gas after the cats, compares content to that of the front O2 sensors, makes sure cats are doing their job.
Removing the rear O2's is a must when doing headers. Even if cats and rest of equipment is used, SES light will still come on most of the time due to abnormal readings.
Solutions:
Buy O2 simulators - these plug into the harness and simulate a functioning cat. These have been known to STILL not prevent the SES light after exhaust work.
Have Rear O2's tuned out - better option, usually cheaper than buying O2 sims, guaranteed to stop SES light."
Should I assume I need to tune my rear 02's out or go ahead and replace the bank1 sensor 1 02? thanks in advance, sorry for the newbie question, Steve.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/500407-egr-air-o2-sensors-motor-tranny-mount-faq.html
"Rear O2 sensors - Emissions control "tattler". Reads the exhaust gas after the cats, compares content to that of the front O2 sensors, makes sure cats are doing their job.
Removing the rear O2's is a must when doing headers. Even if cats and rest of equipment is used, SES light will still come on most of the time due to abnormal readings.
Solutions:
Buy O2 simulators - these plug into the harness and simulate a functioning cat. These have been known to STILL not prevent the SES light after exhaust work.
Have Rear O2's tuned out - better option, usually cheaper than buying O2 sims, guaranteed to stop SES light."
Should I assume I need to tune my rear 02's out or go ahead and replace the bank1 sensor 1 02? thanks in advance, sorry for the newbie question, Steve.
Rear and even front O2s will often freak out when longtubes are installed because longtubes run cooler than the stock manifolds do, essentially the O2 sensors throw a code because they are getting readings that are outside of an acceptable heat range.
Your best bet is to get them tuned out IMO.
Your best bet is to get them tuned out IMO.
Thanks, I figured that would be the best way and did'nt want to waste the money on a 02 sensor that sensor was just replaced.... besides I am also running the ngk 1 step cooler plugs so she's probably running a little fat too.
...Is it possiable to go to a local dealership and get them tuned out, or is that something someone with ls1 edit would have to do... Also i have a vinci handheld on the way would that with the sims do the trick? thanks again, Steve.
...Is it possiable to go to a local dealership and get them tuned out, or is that something someone with ls1 edit would have to do... Also i have a vinci handheld on the way would that with the sims do the trick? thanks again, Steve.
Last edited by autodad; May 24, 2006 at 09:31 PM.
If you read the code I bet it's insufficient switching (caused by cooler running)
One of the solutions is to get the vette rear o2s, they have a stronger heater than the f body ones do, put them in the front o2 bung (the ones the car needs to trim the a/f ratio)
For the rears, simms or tune are both acceptable ways to keep the rear sensor code from appearing, it's just a matter of whether you have access to tuning software or not as to what you use
One of the solutions is to get the vette rear o2s, they have a stronger heater than the f body ones do, put them in the front o2 bung (the ones the car needs to trim the a/f ratio)
For the rears, simms or tune are both acceptable ways to keep the rear sensor code from appearing, it's just a matter of whether you have access to tuning software or not as to what you use
Originally Posted by 2K2WS6TA
If you read the code I bet it's insufficient switching (caused by cooler running)
One of the solutions is to get the vette rear o2s, they have a stronger heater than the f body ones do, put them in the front o2 bung (the ones the car needs to trim the a/f ratio)
For the rears, simms or tune are both acceptable ways to keep the rear sensor code from appearing, it's just a matter of whether you have access to tuning software or not as to what you use
One of the solutions is to get the vette rear o2s, they have a stronger heater than the f body ones do, put them in the front o2 bung (the ones the car needs to trim the a/f ratio)
For the rears, simms or tune are both acceptable ways to keep the rear sensor code from appearing, it's just a matter of whether you have access to tuning software or not as to what you use
thanks, alot. I belive your right about the insufficient switching... I'll double check and if that's the case, I'll get the rear vett o2's, thanks again!
Originally Posted by autodad
Thanks, I figured that would be the best way and did'nt want to waste the money on a 02 sensor that sensor was just replaced.... besides I am also running the ngk 1 step cooler plugs so she's probably running a little fat too.
...Is it possiable to go to a local dealership and get them tuned out, or is that something someone with ls1 edit would have to do... Also i have a vinci handheld on the way would that with the sims do the trick? thanks again, Steve.
...Is it possiable to go to a local dealership and get them tuned out, or is that something someone with ls1 edit would have to do... Also i have a vinci handheld on the way would that with the sims do the trick? thanks again, Steve.
On the brighter side, I'm sure you can find a speed shop/tuner in your area that can delete them in a heartbeat. (I think this is a better option than o2 sims.)
PS thanks for protecting the USA!
Not being nosy but what did you pay for that handheld tuner? Around 3 or 4 hundred?
I tune cars with LT's for about 150. You need to have the car put on a wideband and tuned with the headers. Also what is the reasoning behind the colder plug? Are you running milled heads or something that put the compression ratio up higher than stock?
I would put NGK TR55's in, get the car tuned, delete the rear O2's and forget about it.
I tune cars with LT's for about 150. You need to have the car put on a wideband and tuned with the headers. Also what is the reasoning behind the colder plug? Are you running milled heads or something that put the compression ratio up higher than stock?
I would put NGK TR55's in, get the car tuned, delete the rear O2's and forget about it.
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Originally Posted by 1BDWS6
Not being nosy but what did you pay for that handheld tuner? Around 3 or 4 hundred?
I tune cars with LT's for about 150. You need to have the car put on a wideband and tuned with the headers. Also what is the reasoning behind the colder plug? Are you running milled heads or something that put the compression ratio up higher than stock?
I would put NGK TR55's in, get the car tuned, delete the rear O2's and forget about it.
I tune cars with LT's for about 150. You need to have the car put on a wideband and tuned with the headers. Also what is the reasoning behind the colder plug? Are you running milled heads or something that put the compression ratio up higher than stock?
I would put NGK TR55's in, get the car tuned, delete the rear O2's and forget about it.
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I put the plugs in when the headers where done so i did'nt have to mess with that when I put the bottle on.... thanks for all the help guys! 
Originally Posted by autodad
Removing the rear O2's is a must when doing headers. Even if cats and rest of equipment is used, SES light will still come on most of the time due to abnormal readings.
it's a must?? really?? guess i'm one of those exception people.
Originally Posted by ShevrolayZ28
And I don't think the Vinci/Crane tuner is capable of deleting them, but you could call them and ask.
I vote for getting a tune but not just for the rear O2's as sims are cheaper. I think the tune is the way to go because you want to adjust the PCM for the long tube headers. Without the tune you're not getting as much from the LT's as possible. Getting the rear O2 sims removed is just a bonus IMHO.
