Rack and pinion removal
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 293
Likes: 1
From: San Diego, California
Rack and pinion removal I did a search and I really could not find the answer to my quest. I am thinking of replacing my rack and pinion because it is leaking where the driveshaft connects to it. What is involved in this procdure? 
Do you guys think that the rack can be saved? I'm gonna take a closer look this weekend. I feel that the seal is the only thing messed up on it. The way I see it if I can change the #8 spark plug and install shorty headers this should not be too difficult a task.
Thanks for your help friends.
Do you guys think that the rack can be saved? I'm gonna take a closer look this weekend. I feel that the seal is the only thing messed up on it. The way I see it if I can change the #8 spark plug and install shorty headers this should not be too difficult a task.
Thanks for your help friends.
If your driveshaft is connected to your rack and pinion you have a lot more problems than a leaking rack heh...
If you mean the intermediate shaft that connects your steering column to the rack... right below that at the swivel connection... my car has that... depending on how bad the leak is.. I would say go buy some steer aid power steering fluid additive and add some of that as a top off...
It causes the seal to expand and hopefully fix the leak... I would reccomend doing a power steering flush at the same time and using a 75% PS fluid 25% steer aid mix.. too much of the steer aid and the seal will swell to big and be useless
As far as repairing the rack... it is certainly possible and this is how i look at it if i ever actually need to do it... the seal will be 3$ and rack and pinions are easy to remove.. if you fix it... you spent 3$... if you cant... you spent 3$ and you buy a new rack...
Myself... the leak isnt bad enough to concern me and the steer aid has seemed to help, i just have a bottle of it and PS fluid and i top it off every couple months maybe and no worries... but my leak is small
If you mean the intermediate shaft that connects your steering column to the rack... right below that at the swivel connection... my car has that... depending on how bad the leak is.. I would say go buy some steer aid power steering fluid additive and add some of that as a top off...
It causes the seal to expand and hopefully fix the leak... I would reccomend doing a power steering flush at the same time and using a 75% PS fluid 25% steer aid mix.. too much of the steer aid and the seal will swell to big and be useless
As far as repairing the rack... it is certainly possible and this is how i look at it if i ever actually need to do it... the seal will be 3$ and rack and pinions are easy to remove.. if you fix it... you spent 3$... if you cant... you spent 3$ and you buy a new rack...
Myself... the leak isnt bad enough to concern me and the steer aid has seemed to help, i just have a bottle of it and PS fluid and i top it off every couple months maybe and no worries... but my leak is small
The K -member has to be lowered to get the rack and pinion out. There is one 11mm bolt that connects steering shaft to rack and pinion, then there 2 long bolts that bolt rack and pinion to k-member.
You cannot remove one of the bolts without lowering k-member.
You cannot remove one of the bolts without lowering k-member.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 293
Likes: 1
From: San Diego, California
Thanks for the info everyone. Thanks for the heads up on the lingo. I meant steering shaft. 
It leaks in small amounts and only really leaks bad when I turn the steering hard left or right. It is more of an annoyance if anything. I guess I am tired of cleaning underneath my car.
It leaks in small amounts and only really leaks bad when I turn the steering hard left or right. It is more of an annoyance if anything. I guess I am tired of cleaning underneath my car.
first off this is the wrong forum for this...
second it's really not that bad... relatively simple, you will have to lift the motor up about an inch or so (at least I did)
and you should replace it as repairing it is only asking it to **** up again... rack/pinions are notorious for leaking
second it's really not that bad... relatively simple, you will have to lift the motor up about an inch or so (at least I did)
and you should replace it as repairing it is only asking it to **** up again... rack/pinions are notorious for leaking
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 293
Likes: 1
From: San Diego, California
Originally Posted by RrCoX22
first off this is the wrong forum for this...
second it's really not that bad... relatively simple, you will have to lift the motor up about an inch or so (at least I did)
and you should replace it as repairing it is only asking it to **** up again... rack/pinions are notorious for leaking
second it's really not that bad... relatively simple, you will have to lift the motor up about an inch or so (at least I did)
and you should replace it as repairing it is only asking it to **** up again... rack/pinions are notorious for leaking
If something can be repaired to just as new condition how can that be "asking to **** up again"? Eventually everything on a car will have to be repaired or replaced. That is unavoidable. If some money can be saved to use on other parts then I am all for that.
Thanks for the info. Hopefully I will not have to lift the engine.
Last edited by Formy; Jul 14, 2006 at 01:56 AM.
Originally Posted by Formy
Since the rack is an external part of the car, this is the right forum. But I guess it can also go on the Handling and Brake section.
Hopefully I will not have to lift the engine.
Hopefully I will not have to lift the engine.
was saying just to replace as that's what everyone that i talked to said would be the better choice... that way it's basically garunteed it won't leak again instead of having to keep replacing a part that is basically irreplaceable
i can't remember why i had to lift it... i think it had to do with not being able to clear the k-member and skid pad
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FYI, I'm putting a rack and pinion (R&P) setup in my Benz so my concerns were different. I found a good source though at a good price if you want to get a rebuilt unit. The price for my GM unit was $225, rebuilt and delivered. Scott told me they remove the plastic sleeves and bushings in the R&P and replace them with steel pieces, which should help in longevity and road feel.
No affiliations, etc.
www.carsteering.com
(800) 399-7845
Sales@CarSteering.com
Scott
No affiliations, etc.
www.carsteering.com
(800) 399-7845
Sales@CarSteering.com
Scott
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