Is it possible to get 12 secs from bolt-ons only
My car ran a 13.8 stock. I slapped on a used set of pacesetter longtubes and went 12.92 @ 107 stock automatic transmission. Only mods were headers and open y pipe no catback, and free mods also on street tires. Now I have spray, yank converter + more. I'm hoping for mid to high 11's 
Originally Posted by ryanfx
Most people hit 12's after an intake / exhaust on any decent tire.
Originally Posted by WS6NIGHTMARE
Check my sig....Ive done the free mods also. That ET was on a 2.1 60', so with my new tires I think theres a 12.7 hiding in it.
shoot yeah, ran a 12.4 @ 112.98 with most bolt ons. the car ir a M6, 60' of 1.7 on 255/50-16 BFG dr. what helped was suspension work. As in aftermarket TQarm disconnected front sway bar, hal shocks with 300lb springs, stock rears and a stock 10 bolt with 3.42 gears. This was in San Antonio in feb. But launching at 3500 broke the rear a week later
Seriously depends on the air conditions.
I ran a 2.1 13.7 @ 105 with boltons and duals, seemingly sucky but corrected for air conditions it was a 12.9 @ 112, right on par.
Fwiw, car and driver correct their acceleration times, but R&T does not (they include elevation and air conditions).
I ran a 2.1 13.7 @ 105 with boltons and duals, seemingly sucky but corrected for air conditions it was a 12.9 @ 112, right on par.
Fwiw, car and driver correct their acceleration times, but R&T does not (they include elevation and air conditions).
the biggest bang for the buck on an auto is deff a stall 3400-3600 (is perfect for a daily driver) but if you want to stick to just boltons and u want to hit 12's this should help
air box lid - deff the most common first mod.. replaces the ugly and restrictive stock lid.. usually you can pick one up for around $90
throttle body - port the stock one, its free and out performs many aftermarket ones that go for $350....
cat-back exaust - replaces the restrictive exaust from behind the y-pipe (not the cats)...slp loudmouth or loudmouth II are popular choices and go for around 400 big ones
headers and y pipe - another good power added and should be done together(pacesetter seems to be the most popular due to price and fitment)... there are many diffrent options when it comes to headers and y pipes... they have "race" headers that eliminate the ugly AIR or EGR sytem but may pose a problem if u have emissions testing where u live.... do u want to keep your cats or do u want an off road y-pipe (again depends on your emissions laws) and if u decide to delete you air or egr you will need to get the code turned off in ur pcm or u will have a ses light on.. the same with the ory...
bottom line, do research before you buy any aftermarket part.. this site is really helpfull and dont feel dumb asking questions.. people on here will steer you in the right path
this may also help https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/520845-mod-guide-induction-exhaust-please-read-before-posting.html
keep in mind that all the mods in the world are useless if u cant hook the tires up, so u may want to look into a decent set of tires and some suspension components
air box lid - deff the most common first mod.. replaces the ugly and restrictive stock lid.. usually you can pick one up for around $90
throttle body - port the stock one, its free and out performs many aftermarket ones that go for $350....
cat-back exaust - replaces the restrictive exaust from behind the y-pipe (not the cats)...slp loudmouth or loudmouth II are popular choices and go for around 400 big ones
headers and y pipe - another good power added and should be done together(pacesetter seems to be the most popular due to price and fitment)... there are many diffrent options when it comes to headers and y pipes... they have "race" headers that eliminate the ugly AIR or EGR sytem but may pose a problem if u have emissions testing where u live.... do u want to keep your cats or do u want an off road y-pipe (again depends on your emissions laws) and if u decide to delete you air or egr you will need to get the code turned off in ur pcm or u will have a ses light on.. the same with the ory...
bottom line, do research before you buy any aftermarket part.. this site is really helpfull and dont feel dumb asking questions.. people on here will steer you in the right path
this may also help https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/520845-mod-guide-induction-exhaust-please-read-before-posting.html
keep in mind that all the mods in the world are useless if u cant hook the tires up, so u may want to look into a decent set of tires and some suspension components
and go to your lacal track, exspecialy if the hold a F-body shootout. you will see a lot of bolt on cars doing really good, becuase those drivers learn to drive, and tune the suspension as well as the rest of the car, for what ever the alttitude and weather conditions. The "driver mod" is important to.
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Zoomer, over at zzperformance.com put a fwd l67 into 12's with no internal modifications to the engine. That was with a 231. Thus making your question a little silly. Take that back a little, it does come with a blower so is that cheating?
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if u ran 13.298 bone stock u will deff. be there with ur current mods, headers, y-pipe and traction... there are auto fbodys running low 12's with full bolt ons, a decent stall and a set of stickys
you def. need tires. i went 13.7@108 this past weekend with a horrilbe 2.5 60' i could have got a 12 sec pass but my tires are horrible. my friend ran a 13.3@109 the same night with a 2.3 or 2.4 60' i cant remeber but you could get a nice 12sec pass.
12 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,213
Likes: 1
From: Chesapeake va
thanx for all the votes of confidence guys, i just dont want to go to the track next summer and be running the same times all over again!! I have to buy my parts slowly and spread out unlike some on here, cause of the fam, so when i go, ill probably be without a stall still!! but when i do, ive decided on getting a 3400.
