Here is the deal. I want to buy headers and a Y-pipe as my next mod. I am a total noob when it comes to headers, so please help me out. I am looking for a few things to narrow down my search....

1. Long Tubes
2. AIR and EGR fittings
3. Ceramic or Stainless
4. Catted Y

Now here is why I want these things. I have a Loudmouth right now, so I want to keep the sound down AS MUCH AS I CAN. I know it is still going to be loud. I also wanted to have AIR and EGR fittings so I wouldn't NEED a tune. I wanted Ceramic or Stainless for Longevity. Plus, I wanted to know anything else I might need other than....

1. Long tubes
2. Y-Pipe
3. O2 Extensions
4. Stock Gaskets

Another thing is personal experience. If you have any, chime in. Especially if it was a set up similar to what I am looking for. Any advice is greatly appreciated guys!!!!!

Thanks,

James

 

Ok,

You won't need a tune if you decide to ditch AIR and EGR. It is actually less to get them turned off by a tuner than it is to buy some O2 simms....If you can still find some for sale. I think that the price to have them turned off is anywhere between 45-70$ depending on where you take it.

Go ahead and add penetrating oil to that list. I have always put a dab on my bolts when changing headers/manifolds. The heat tends to make it harder to get off, and I believe that more people end up rounding off bolts and breaking them off in the head because they are not doing this. Drip or spray it on there a few hours prior to doing the install, and it will make a pretty significant difference.

More options.... If you have the money: Kooks or QTP is the way to go for the stainless stuff. (anyone says anything other than this it will be screened.)

If cash is low: Pacesetter has steered many a customer to a satisfying header. They are cheap in price and high in quality for a ceramic coated header.

Y-pipe....Honestly. The best way IMO to do this is:
Find an exhaust shop that will custom fab one for you on the car. They can also mandrel bend the pipe to maximize the performance you will receive out of it. Having one made will help with vibrations and the pipe hammering your floorboards like a roofer. I'm sure that there is nothing wrong with getting an already constructed aftermarket y, but there are some downsides to fittament that you are not going to want to deal with.

Noticed you said that you are going catted as well. There are many options for the cats these days including stock replacement and metallic hi-flow. I personally will not give you any good feedback on this because I have always run an off-road setup. I am not one of those people to tell you to get something that I have never tried myself, or have common knowledge of.

Another thing that you might want to consider is a polyurethane mount for your transmission. This will also help with the rattle factor and is an improvement over the rubber stock mount.

Sounds like you are doing the install yourself from what I can tell. Good for you! It is not the hardest thing in the world with a little mechanical knowledge. Good time for a spark plug check up and or change if you feel the need.

If you need any help finding this stuff, the sponsors to the right will be more than happy to help you out.


I think that is it for now. I will hit this post up with new info if I can think of anything else. Feel free to send me a PM if you have any other questions on where you want your setup to go in the future or different plans.

Jordan

 

there is also stuff called antiseize, ive been using it for many years and it does work.

 

WOW thanks Jordan for your help. I was planning on doing my plugs and wires at the same time. I decided to go with AC Delco Iridiums, and MSD wires....

OK, so I should go with either Kooks, QTP, or pacesetter if money is low. I shouldn't worry about AIR and EGR, but I do need O2 extensions. I should buy my own cats, and have a local installer mandrel bend me a Y-pipe and install the cats into it then. After all of this, I should have a local tuner (I am close to Hardcore Motorsports ->>) cancel out the AIR and EGR systems. IS THIS RIGHT?

 

Looks right to me!

 

 

why is that weird? The guy is trying to get help from this site to make sure hes doing the right thing, and thats what this site is hear to offer....help. And dont act like you havent gotten any off this site either!

firebirdman- sounds like you got the right idea. good luck!

 

i seen where you have an a4. in my experience (about 4 different cars, tested) putting a poly trans mount on makes it vibrate horribly. even IF they had matching motor mounts.

with that being said, i WOULD reccomend doing a set of poly MOTOR mounts if you have the funds (around $50 for the pair from several sponsors---> ). it makes the job much easier with the exhaust out of the way. it will make your motor & car "shake" a lot less & help with the Y-pipe to floorboard contact.

with the header install. to me getting the stock stuff out of there was the hardest part. any of the mentioned headers are a quality piece & make you happy.

the custom Y pipe may be a thing to do. just call around locally and see if any of the shops even have a mandrel bender (there is not one within 150ish miles from me). if there is not then i would just purchase a matching catted Y pipe from wherever header vender you choose.

i would also reccomend a set of "race style" headers (no emissions hook ups) because you CAN drive the car just fine without them untill you get them deleted from a tuner, just have to look at the check engine light. it will make plug changes, working on your car easier and clean up the engine bay a good bit.

 

Thanks a lot! Great info! Is there a write up on how to change the motor mounts?? So you would recommend NOT to change the trans mount?? Also, my car tends to vibrate a lot even now in drive, when I am completely stopped. So you think the motor mount will help this out?

 

i'm not sure of a write up. its pretty straight forward though. just do one side at the time. i'm pretty sure you will have to take the alt. off to get the motor mount bolt out on the drivers side & take the a/c compressor off for the passangers side. the bolts were installed front to rear from the factory. i ALWAYS reinstall them rear to front so you don't have to take the alt. & a/c compressor off again.

the motor mounts bolt to the block with 4 bolts (13mm, wrench/ratchet wrench or deep socket).
the motor mount to K-member bolts (long one that goes through the mount) is an 18mm i believe.

when you get the mount out, you will need a drill with 3/8" bit & a grinder (4" angle grinder is perfect). there is 2 rivets on the mount that you will need to grind the head off. on the opposite side there is 3 holes with hollow rivets, just drill them out & pry the mount apart. the rubber insert usually just falls out. replace it with the poly insert and bolt it back together with the included bolts; as described with the poly motor mount instructions.

this is a part/mod that a lot of people over look. i noticed a decent difference when i installed them on my car. it vibrated less, the engine shook less, & the exhaust was a little quieter?? (as in it didn't vibrate/move on the car).

probably the best $50 spent on the car IMO.

 

That sign icon DOESn't say "weird", it says "werd", as in the slang "Word".

like right on, to the point, very good point, I agree, well said, exactly, etc.