SLP pully ?
Well, the press fit keeps the pulley from spinning and the bolt keeps the pulley from backing off and losing its tight press fit. Aftermarket pullies are keyed because many people have their cranks keyed when going forced induction, or high RPMs, etc.
I have an SLP pulley I'm installing and am using the 3/16" pin kit from ATI. Can't imagine why GM didn't key the cranks on these things from the factory. If no other benefit, you won't have to use hulk-like torque values for the crank bolt.
Originally Posted by DuronClocker
Well, the press fit keeps the pulley from spinning and the bolt keeps the pulley from backing off and losing its tight press fit. Aftermarket pullies are keyed because many people have their cranks keyed when going forced induction, or high RPMs, etc.
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Teching In
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 47
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From: Oviedo
Hey guys, is the crank/balancer bolt reverse thread (clockwise to loosen)? I am having trouble getting that bastard off and I want to make sure I am turning it the right way. Also, any suggestions about how to get it loose?
Its RHT, just very tight 
Originally Posted by bpaulk76
Hey guys, is the crank/balancer bolt reverse thread (clockwise to loosen)? I am having trouble getting that bastard off and I want to make sure I am turning it the right way. Also, any suggestions about how to get it loose?
Need a HD 1/2" impact to remove the bolt, with the air line pressure cranked up.
Warm up the hub of the balancer with propane, mapp gas, acetelyene flame etc. the balancer should go on so easy, tighten the crank bolt to intial spec, index the position of the crank bolt (mark it with a dot of white out) then use the impact to move it 90*
Warm up the hub of the balancer with propane, mapp gas, acetelyene flame etc. the balancer should go on so easy, tighten the crank bolt to intial spec, index the position of the crank bolt (mark it with a dot of white out) then use the impact to move it 90*
