What to get next???
What to get next??? Hello everyone!!! Been a long time viewer of this site and It has answered every question I ever had about an Fbody. Well now I'm torn between some choices of my next mod.
With the mods in my sig what would you all get that will best support them? I was of thinking along the lines of a FTRA kit or some LCAs and maybe a 25% UD pulley. So what do you guys think?
(P.S. I'm getting a tune from Thunder this week so I'm not looking into a H/C combo anytime soon)
With the mods in my sig what would you all get that will best support them? I was of thinking along the lines of a FTRA kit or some LCAs and maybe a 25% UD pulley. So what do you guys think?
(P.S. I'm getting a tune from Thunder this week so I'm not looking into a H/C combo anytime soon)
Save the money for a 12-bolt. I learned the hard way. These 10-bolt rearends are forgiving of power once you go much over stock. Popele get lucky and theirs lasts for a long time, however, that's the exception .... not the general rule.
Of course, if you choose not to save for a 12-bolt, then, go with suspension mods to eliminate any wheel hop you might have so it's easier on the 10-bolt.
Of course, if you choose not to save for a 12-bolt, then, go with suspension mods to eliminate any wheel hop you might have so it's easier on the 10-bolt.
you might want to just start on your suspension work.....the guy above is kinda right, but by what your saying your not going to be making huge amounts of power....so that 10bolt should hold up, it should hold up even better if you can get the right suspension parts.....TQ arm, SFC, LCA's...etc
You don't need to upgrade your rear unless you drag race...
I would go for the UDP. Have you dynoed? It'll add another 10 rwhp. You don"t really need to but i would do it before the tune. So you have a dyno output of the modification.
What type of handling are you after? Do you actually drag race? What do you want to setup your car for? The answers to these questions will dictate what suspension mods you need to get....
I would go for the UDP. Have you dynoed? It'll add another 10 rwhp. You don"t really need to but i would do it before the tune. So you have a dyno output of the modification.
What type of handling are you after? Do you actually drag race? What do you want to setup your car for? The answers to these questions will dictate what suspension mods you need to get....
I was ruling out the 12 bolt cause I didn't want but 380hp max to the wheels.
As for the Dyno & tune; I was going to get them both done this Tues.
The car is a DD and will only see the track maybe 2-3 times a year. It's just for kicking azz on the weekends and going to work during the week. I drag a little on the streets with friends but I don't dump my clutch; I either go from a roll or slip it in 1st. Also I am getting some wheel hop with both.
Thanks for the replys!!
As for the Dyno & tune; I was going to get them both done this Tues.
The car is a DD and will only see the track maybe 2-3 times a year. It's just for kicking azz on the weekends and going to work during the week. I drag a little on the streets with friends but I don't dump my clutch; I either go from a roll or slip it in 1st. Also I am getting some wheel hop with both.
Thanks for the replys!!
I would recommend LCAs and relocation brackets (Weld in). These will help your wheel hop problem and give you more traction. IF you like handling around curves, I recommend a set of Strano Sway bars. They dramtically increase the handling of fbodies. Also a nice set of Koni shocks goes a long way towards corner carving. They don't do much for drag racing though. A cheaper alternative is re-valved bilsteins from Strano also. Contact Sam at StranoParts.com.
No curves over here, just drag racing every now and then. Most of the racing is done on the street; scared I'll break the rear on the track. LCAs are starting to look good to me now. Should I worry about a PHB too?(I'm staying at stock height)
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Yes, PHR is a good mod. Even if you don't have larger wheels and tires, it tightens up the axle and sway. You can make your own for an economical price out of aluminum, let me know if you want the link. That's what I did and it worked great.
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Naw, It's ok I'm willing to pay for a set. I'm not in to fabricating much, but I love install anything.
Thanls for the help I'll be sure to post my results form the Dyno & tune later this week. Hope I put up some good #s.
Thanls for the help I'll be sure to post my results form the Dyno & tune later this week. Hope I put up some good #s.
I would probably save for a 12 bolt...or a 9". If not that...then I would look at a clutch if you have not done that yet, cuz the stock one is going to go. I would also look at doing the basic suspension and chasis mods. Subframes, Driveshaft safety loop, panhard bar, LCA's w/relocation brackets, etc
Alright; I guess I'll take the suspension route. I'll see what I can get a good deal on at Thunder when I get the tune.
Once I get between 360-370hp I'll be done modding and happy as hell. But the 10bolt issue is always in the back of my mind. I only have 38k miles on the car now and haven't came across any bad signs or noises yet. I hope to keep it that way.
Jeb99Ta: For wheels and tires I wanted some ZR1's(chrome or silver) 17/9.5 all around. Are you familiar with the Nitto 555 tire(not the R). Are they pretty good for DD and playing on the street???
Once I get between 360-370hp I'll be done modding and happy as hell. But the 10bolt issue is always in the back of my mind. I only have 38k miles on the car now and haven't came across any bad signs or noises yet. I hope to keep it that way.
Jeb99Ta: For wheels and tires I wanted some ZR1's(chrome or silver) 17/9.5 all around. Are you familiar with the Nitto 555 tire(not the R). Are they pretty good for DD and playing on the street???
Jeb99Ta: For wheels and tires I wanted some ZR1's(chrome or silver) 17/9.5 all around. Are you familiar with the Nitto 555 tire(not the R). Are they pretty good for DD and playing on the street????
After going through over a half-dozen brands (and several sets of a few of those brands), when I was at 360 RWHP (A4), Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 tires were best all around and I could get pretty good traction, but I would reccommend if you're planning on being over 340 RWHP, then, go with the Nitto road tires on the front and DR's on the back corners ... if you're wanting good traction and good overall driveability.
It's all a trade-off and I've found this was my best route. NEVER buy MT Street drag radials for the street ... the most I got out of a pair of them was 1,800 miles and they were completely bare. In the rain, over 25-30 mph, they'll put you into another vehicle quick. But, ALWAYS keep a pair of them with an extra set of wheels if you go to the track.
... oh yeah ... sponser here (Discount Tires) gets me the best deals on Nitto's ... JEGS for MT Street Drag Radials were $386 to my door for a pair of 275/40/17's ... hope this helps.
Yeah, I was looking at the LS7 clutch kit with the aluminum flywheel. Unless you know anything better than that setup???
I luv this site; everyone is giving all kinds of info in one post!!!LOL
I luv this site; everyone is giving all kinds of info in one post!!!LOL
My firebird had an aluminum flywheel. I regretted it. It was too light. The clutch was harder to engage. It revs real easy though. Might be worth a few extra hp. But not worth the trouble imo too radical of a modification.