Motor Mount Question...
I'd highly recommend doing only one side at a time so you don't have to worry about the motor shifting at all and then you'll have fun getting the bolt holes to line back up again. As for the rivet gun, you'd better have a pretty damn big rivet gun to have rivets that big!
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Ok this is a little off topic but how do I do this:
Remove my air and egr?
I already have both headers off so I have the air removed to the point of where the hose is running on the driver side fender down below the fuse boxes to some sort of "air motor". How do I get that thing out from under the fuse boxes.
The egr part is still connected to the throttle body at the top. How do I get this off of there? It seems pressed on.
Remove my air and egr?
I already have both headers off so I have the air removed to the point of where the hose is running on the driver side fender down below the fuse boxes to some sort of "air motor". How do I get that thing out from under the fuse boxes.
The egr part is still connected to the throttle body at the top. How do I get this off of there? It seems pressed on.
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From: The dirty taint of the country. ...Los Angeles
Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
The prothane motor mounts (like Thunder sells) DO come with new bolts for putting the clamshells back together BTW.
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Originally Posted by connexion2005
Ok this is a little off topic but how do I do this:
Remove my air and egr?
I already have both headers off so I have the air removed to the point of where the hose is running on the driver side fender down below the fuse boxes to some sort of "air motor". How do I get that thing out from under the fuse boxes.
The egr part is still connected to the throttle body at the top. How do I get this off of there? It seems pressed on.
Remove my air and egr?
I already have both headers off so I have the air removed to the point of where the hose is running on the driver side fender down below the fuse boxes to some sort of "air motor". How do I get that thing out from under the fuse boxes.
The egr part is still connected to the throttle body at the top. How do I get this off of there? It seems pressed on.
Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
I think it's easier to remove the pedestal/k-member bolts than to remove the alternator/compressor. Loosen the big bolt before you do it, in case you can't get the pedestal/motor mount assembly out thru the hole.
Unbolting the whole thing should give you enough room to get the big bolt out by sliding it around in there instead of removing accessories.
Unbolting the whole thing should give you enough room to get the big bolt out by sliding it around in there instead of removing accessories.
Have you done it that way?
It seems much easier, but I don't know if the mounts are angled weird or whatever to prevent them prom pivoting.....
Originally Posted by connexion2005
Ok this is a little off topic but how do I do this:
Remove my air and egr?
I already have both headers off so I have the air removed to the point of where the hose is running on the driver side fender down below the fuse boxes to some sort of "air motor". How do I get that thing out from under the fuse boxes.
The egr part is still connected to the throttle body at the top. How do I get this off of there? It seems pressed on.
Remove my air and egr?
I already have both headers off so I have the air removed to the point of where the hose is running on the driver side fender down below the fuse boxes to some sort of "air motor". How do I get that thing out from under the fuse boxes.
The egr part is still connected to the throttle body at the top. How do I get this off of there? It seems pressed on.
The EGR should be connected to the manifold, behind the TB. Unbolt it from the exhaust, and remove the single bolt from the manifold. Then you should be able to unplug it from the harness and pull it vertical out of the manifold. Go buy a 1-3/8" adjustable freeze plug from Autozone and put it in the manifold to plug the hole.
Originally Posted by Da Swami
Have you done it that way?
It seems much easier, but I don't know if the mounts are angled weird or whatever to prevent them prom pivoting.....
It seems much easier, but I don't know if the mounts are angled weird or whatever to prevent them prom pivoting.....
I unbolted the passenger side pedestal and slid it backwards, then it let me get the big bolt out without removing the compressor. The pedestal just chilled in there, because it wouldn't fit down through the hole, but I didn't need it to. I put the new mount in the clamshel, stuck it back up there, bolted it back to the pedestal, then bolted the pedestal back to the k-member.
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Thanks for the info so far blur and every one else. Ok here is my situation as of now:
I have the driver side motor mount and header completley done. I have the big 18mm bolt out of the passenger side and the top 2 of the 4 bolts holding the clamshell to the block broken lose. I can't get an angle to break the bottom 2. Any suggestions on how to get leverage to break these? The passenger side seems to be a bitch compared to the driver side. I am thinking of waking up tomorrow and using an impact to break them so let me know if there is another way.
I have the driver side motor mount and header completley done. I have the big 18mm bolt out of the passenger side and the top 2 of the 4 bolts holding the clamshell to the block broken lose. I can't get an angle to break the bottom 2. Any suggestions on how to get leverage to break these? The passenger side seems to be a bitch compared to the driver side. I am thinking of waking up tomorrow and using an impact to break them so let me know if there is another way.
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Originally Posted by connexion2005
Thanks for the info so far blur and every one else. Ok here is my situation as of now:
I have the driver side motor mount and header completley done. I have the big 18mm bolt out of the passenger side and the top 2 of the 4 bolts holding the clamshell to the block broken lose. I can't get an angle to break the bottom 2. Any suggestions on how to get leverage to break these? The passenger side seems to be a bitch compared to the driver side. I am thinking of waking up tomorrow and using an impact to break them so let me know if there is another way.
I have the driver side motor mount and header completley done. I have the big 18mm bolt out of the passenger side and the top 2 of the 4 bolts holding the clamshell to the block broken lose. I can't get an angle to break the bottom 2. Any suggestions on how to get leverage to break these? The passenger side seems to be a bitch compared to the driver side. I am thinking of waking up tomorrow and using an impact to break them so let me know if there is another way.
With enough wobble head extensions and swivels, I could change out a solar panel on the Hubble telescope from my bedroom.
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Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
I used a 3/8" drive socket, a swivel, and about 18" worth of extensions. I snaked the socket/extension through the steering rack etc. and managed to get it on the clamshell bolts. I then used a ratchet to break 'em loose.
With enough wobble head extensions and swivels, I could change out a solar panel on the Hubble telescope from my bedroom.
With enough wobble head extensions and swivels, I could change out a solar panel on the Hubble telescope from my bedroom.
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Ok I forgot to mention these 2 things as well:
1. My pcv valve is broke where it 90 degree angles at the back of the driver side valve cover. (this is very typical of 98's with around 100k from what I've read). I finally realize that this has caused some of my oil consumption (about a quart every 3,000 miles and also its been causing my dipstick to jump out an inch after every time I push back down into place). Can I drive like this till I fix it?
2. My dumb@$$ broke the coolant temp sensor at the front of the drivers head during all this installation and removal. I think I can rig it until I get a replacement but if the rigging doesn't work with I still be ok to drive for a bit without a working sensor. All I will lack is the temp gauge right?
1. My pcv valve is broke where it 90 degree angles at the back of the driver side valve cover. (this is very typical of 98's with around 100k from what I've read). I finally realize that this has caused some of my oil consumption (about a quart every 3,000 miles and also its been causing my dipstick to jump out an inch after every time I push back down into place). Can I drive like this till I fix it?
2. My dumb@$$ broke the coolant temp sensor at the front of the drivers head during all this installation and removal. I think I can rig it until I get a replacement but if the rigging doesn't work with I still be ok to drive for a bit without a working sensor. All I will lack is the temp gauge right?
My little PCV thing broke too, as long as you can rig something together to work, it should be fine. I slipped a piece of 3/8" hose down over the nipple on back of the driver side cover, ran it over to the passenger side Y block thing, which I had to rebuild out of some old AIR hoses, then ran it toward the front. The Y block on my car (connects driver side and passenger side valve cover hoses, then runs it to the PCV valve) had come all apart, so I had to "make one". It worked great, but I've since trashed it for a breather.
http://i19.tinypic.com/4g3mn8i.jpg
http://i16.tinypic.com/2pyny2o.jpg
You should not really operate the car without a working temp sensor. If you broke the plastic part off, and the prongs are still attached, you can JB weld it back together and rock out (mine's done this way lol). I broke my replacement installing it, and the dealership was closed, so I improvised. Been driving great ever since.
The reason I say you shouldn't drive it without a sensor is that it doesn't just tell the guage what temperature the car is so you'll know, it tells the PCM too. The ECT (engine coolant temperature) governs about half the damn tables in the PCM. Your fueling, open loop/closed loop, idle speed, etc. all vary with the coolant temp, along with god-knows how many others.
http://i19.tinypic.com/4g3mn8i.jpg
http://i16.tinypic.com/2pyny2o.jpg
You should not really operate the car without a working temp sensor. If you broke the plastic part off, and the prongs are still attached, you can JB weld it back together and rock out (mine's done this way lol). I broke my replacement installing it, and the dealership was closed, so I improvised. Been driving great ever since.
The reason I say you shouldn't drive it without a sensor is that it doesn't just tell the guage what temperature the car is so you'll know, it tells the PCM too. The ECT (engine coolant temperature) governs about half the damn tables in the PCM. Your fueling, open loop/closed loop, idle speed, etc. all vary with the coolant temp, along with god-knows how many others.
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ok so I got the passenger mount off drilled rivets and bolted my new mount in. I have it nicely bolted to the block as well. I have a problem though. I can't get the mount centered in the pedestal for the life of me. I can center the damn thing vertically up and down but the hole in the mount needs to be a quarter an inch to the left to be centered horizontally. I can't seem to find a spot to pry on to make it move left or right. I think the deal is now that I have the poly in on the driver side I don't have near the flex that I need to center the thing. I took my drive shaft out and my tranny mount lose to try and play with it from the rear but I had no luck. Any suggestions?
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Regarding the issue I just posted up, I found this post in a thread from about 2 years ago...I'll let you guys know if this worked because it is the exact issue I'm having:
Originally Posted by DOUBT IT
My passenger side through bolt was like that too. I loosened the pedestal bolts until it would reach, and voila! the through bolt slid right through. I put the nut on and then tightened the pedestal bolts back down and torqued them. Problem solved! You might try that.
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I went back out and tried what I found above. 10 minutes max and I had the bolt through. Wish I would have researched more before I wasted hours of time and got pissed. Ok so headers and mounts are on. Parts left are:
Y pipe
o2's
Random bolts and pieces
Coil Packs
Wires
Air Induction
Plug Egr and pull Air Pump
Y pipe
o2's
Random bolts and pieces
Coil Packs
Wires
Air Induction
Plug Egr and pull Air Pump
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For my first time ever I would say I have about 16 to 17 hours of total time.
3 hours for removal of exhaust and related parts
3 hours for installation of exhaust and related parts
10 hours for motor mounts take off and put on.
Now given I had to do this again I know I could get it done in about 6-8 hours as I have learned a ton of little tricks during this.
3 hours for removal of exhaust and related parts
3 hours for installation of exhaust and related parts
10 hours for motor mounts take off and put on.
Now given I had to do this again I know I could get it done in about 6-8 hours as I have learned a ton of little tricks during this.
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as of now im driving around without my engine temperature coolant sensor on the side of the block...anything wrong with this? also the car is running extremley rich...why?