decisions decisions.....
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From: NM, 6-8,000DA land :(
decisions decisions..... hello everyone, so I decided to get some LT headers. and was hoping for a bit of help.
I am going to get the kooks with an ory. I have heard though that those two combined with a corsa exhaust = rasp. and others say its not bad. well when i get them on and my exhaust then sounds like crap I was wondering what i could do to eliminate this rasp. I have two ideas. any help is appreciated.
say I get the kooks with ory and its then raspy. could I add only ONE hi flow cat to the end of the ory??? this would eliminate the rasp (probably not ALL of it) and make the sound better right?? would that work??
option 2
instead of an ory say I do two straight pipes back to the corsa. would this make it more raspy??? less??
i'm leaning toward my first idea but just want to get some opinions n suggestions. thnx for your help
I am going to get the kooks with an ory. I have heard though that those two combined with a corsa exhaust = rasp. and others say its not bad. well when i get them on and my exhaust then sounds like crap I was wondering what i could do to eliminate this rasp. I have two ideas. any help is appreciated.
say I get the kooks with ory and its then raspy. could I add only ONE hi flow cat to the end of the ory??? this would eliminate the rasp (probably not ALL of it) and make the sound better right?? would that work??
option 2
instead of an ory say I do two straight pipes back to the corsa. would this make it more raspy??? less??
i'm leaning toward my first idea but just want to get some opinions n suggestions. thnx for your help
if he uses a 3" catco high flow cat its not gonna bottle neck.ive heard this setup its very loud.id weld in a bullet instead of the converter.by pacesetters they are very high quality easy too install and half the price of kooks
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from what i've come to understand...you ARE gonna have some rasp with most lt + ory applications. as far as adding cats goes, its probably gonna depend on how much rasp/loudness you can take. im to the point of getting a new catback because mine's so damn obnoxious but thats just me...
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the loudness wouldn't bother me (guess we'll find out soon enough) I just want something to eliminate the rasp if it sounds like crap. N i do believe my corsa is dual inlet, i haven't looked under there in a looong time.
so putting a catco at the end of the ory is ok? i'll be good??
thnx for the replys. oh n i'm a she
so putting a catco at the end of the ory is ok? i'll be good??
thnx for the replys. oh n i'm a she
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From: NM, 6-8,000DA land :(
i'm not opposed to them, i don't dislike them. if i have to put a cat on my exhaust thats fine with me, i was just wondering if putting one (hi-flow)at the end of the y would work.
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Verdad Gallardo 12 Second Club
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From: Pittsburgh,PA
Originally Posted by BAD2000TA
Why are you so opposed to cats? The high flow ones are pretty good. Plus, you're still legal then and you're really not giving up much power.
Besides installing aftermarket converters only in the 3 situations outlined in response to question (6), other requirements and restrictions also apply. These include completely documenting the need for converter replacement, properly installing the correct one on the vehicle, and informing the customer of his rights and certain restrictions.
Specifically, these requirements are as follows:
(1) If the replacement is not required by a State or local program, both customer and installer must sign a statement concerning why the converter was replaced. (Manufacturers either provide such a statement with the converter or have an example in their catalogs.)
(2) If the replacement is required by a State or local program, the installer must keep a copy of the statement or order by the program representative.
(3) The invoice for replacement must include the customer's name and complete address, and the vehicle's make, model year, and mileage, as well as the reason for replacement.
(4) Retain copies of the above invoices and statements for 6 months and the replaced converters for 15 days (converters must be identified or marked as to which customer's car they came from).
(5) Install the converter in the same location as the original.
(6) Install the same type of converter as the original (oxidation, 3-way, or 3-way-plusoxidation (dual-bed)). This information is sometimes available on the emission tuneup label or from the manufacturer's application catalog.
(7) Install the proper converter for the vehicle as determined and specified by the converter manufacturer. There are engine size and vehicle weight limitations which make it inappropriate to install certain converters on certain vehicles. Newer vehicles with On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) systems may not always operate properly with certain aftermarket products. Therefore, the catalog should always be consulted for the correct application.
(8) The converter must always be properly connected to any existing air injection components.
(9) Install all the other required converters the vehicle would have originally come with unless the converter manufacturer has stated in writing that the aftermarket converter is designed to replace more than one converter.
(10) For new aftermarket converters, the installer must fill out the warranty information card supplied by the manufacturer and give it to the vehicle owner or operator.
http://www.epa.gov/otaq/cert/factshts/catcvrts.pdf, p.5
Specifically, these requirements are as follows:
(1) If the replacement is not required by a State or local program, both customer and installer must sign a statement concerning why the converter was replaced. (Manufacturers either provide such a statement with the converter or have an example in their catalogs.)
(2) If the replacement is required by a State or local program, the installer must keep a copy of the statement or order by the program representative.
(3) The invoice for replacement must include the customer's name and complete address, and the vehicle's make, model year, and mileage, as well as the reason for replacement.
(4) Retain copies of the above invoices and statements for 6 months and the replaced converters for 15 days (converters must be identified or marked as to which customer's car they came from).
(5) Install the converter in the same location as the original.
(6) Install the same type of converter as the original (oxidation, 3-way, or 3-way-plusoxidation (dual-bed)). This information is sometimes available on the emission tuneup label or from the manufacturer's application catalog.
(7) Install the proper converter for the vehicle as determined and specified by the converter manufacturer. There are engine size and vehicle weight limitations which make it inappropriate to install certain converters on certain vehicles. Newer vehicles with On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) systems may not always operate properly with certain aftermarket products. Therefore, the catalog should always be consulted for the correct application.
(8) The converter must always be properly connected to any existing air injection components.
(9) Install all the other required converters the vehicle would have originally come with unless the converter manufacturer has stated in writing that the aftermarket converter is designed to replace more than one converter.
(10) For new aftermarket converters, the installer must fill out the warranty information card supplied by the manufacturer and give it to the vehicle owner or operator.
http://www.epa.gov/otaq/cert/factshts/catcvrts.pdf, p.5
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From: NM, 6-8,000DA land :(
would the texas speed catted y fit with the kooks though?? if not i think i'll get an ory and if i don't like it i'll add two hi-flows on the y where they usually are on y's. hows that sound? i'm getting anxious to order these things lol
Originally Posted by WS6_00
would the texas speed catted y fit with the kooks though?? if not i think i'll get an ory and if i don't like it i'll add two hi-flows on the y where they usually are on y's. hows that sound? i'm getting anxious to order these things lol
