soo how do i get the clamp that is on the rubber hose on the back drivers side of the intake off? Also the old ls1 intake has a tube coming out of the top of the intake directly behind the tb and the new ls6 does not, options? Thanks

 

On the old ls1 intake i think you are talking about the egr, the ls6 have it blocked off. Not to shure about the clamp on the hose, you should be able to pinch it together and slide it off with some pliers

 

I am thinking about doing the LS6 swap and was wondering what all is needed to do the swap to a 98 car. The problem is that i need to keep the EGR for emissions testing. And I think you have to swap out the steam crossover tubes too right? or just grind the ribs off of the bottom of the intake?

 

not to sure learning as i go along. i will find the thread i started a couple of days ago about the install.

 

pg 8 in this section halfway down the page.

 

You want to buy the ls6 intake manifold with the EGR provisions they offer that version as well. It costa more but it allows you to keep the EGR.

 

Why do you wanna keep the EGR????

 

Im in the middle of swapping my ls1 for an ls6 as well, my hose was on there real good, but i was able to use pliers to slide the clamp down the hose so it is no longer holding the hose to the intake. then used the pliers and grabbed the hose where its on the intake and broke it free by spinning it on the manifold. then i used my hands and pulled hard while spinning the hose. it was a bitch but it eventually came off.

hope this helps.

did you break your oil pressure sending unit?

 

Also you are going to have to buy a block off plate or make one in order to delete your EGR, so you don't have a massive exhaust leak. www.ws6store.com has one. you will also throw a code until you delete it either with a tune or a handheld programmer.

 

I would just delete the EGR and AIR system if you can get tuning on the car. It cleans up the engine bay very nicely and you lose weight at the same time.

 

For me I had to keep EGR.. damn emissions testing around here is brutal.

I bought a LPE part that fits with any LS6 intake (with minor drilling) and let's you use the stock EGR with no problems.

http://www.lingenfelter.com/Merchant...Category_Code=

You wouldn't know I had a LS6 intake... all told it was significantly cheaper for me to get a used LS6 intake with this adapter than grabbin a SLP modified LS6 intake or LS6 intake, block off parts, and EGR delete (local speed shop wanted $75) + hassle of finding a shop that will overlook EGR for my year car...

 

where did you get the LPE part and what does that stand for?

 

never mid i'm a retard i just saw the link

 

If you're interested in keeping EGR, you can fab up your own EGR provision similar to the one on an SLP intake. All you need to do is drilling a hole on the intake and getting the correct compression fittings

 

Hey what does the A.I.R. stand for and how dod i take it off?

 

by chance, I know this is old lol, where can i find the link to turn a non egr ls6 into an EGR LS6. GOt a good deal on an LS6 but im stationed in germany and im trying to keep my car as legal as possible while im here. I eventualy will delete the EGR stuff, but would like to keep my car emissions legal while im here to keep the SES off as much as possible. Gotta clear it every so often due to HF cats installes with LT headers. Stock rear o2s still in there sniffing around. Sending my PCM to frost is not an option right now since this is my DD.

 

If your only concern is the codes popping up, the Predator handheld can delete everything (e.g. rear 02s, AIR, EGR...) They don't do it out of the box. You need the computer interface cable (like another 20 bucks) and you email the tune to a "CMR" who will charge you 30 bucks to modify it to permanently delete all those codes. Even if you get the cheaper non-SLP handheld (U7198) this is still way more expensive than a mail order tune, but you can do it without pulling your PCM and the codes will be gone for good (unless you revert the car back to the stock tune).