To begin I would like to say that i have read install documents, and searched, but I have read different things.
Anyways, I am installing my Kooks Long tubes and Catted Y now. I removed the stock manifolds, spark plugs, wires, and oil filter. I have a few questions though:

I can't seem to get my header to slip in either side....What are some of the things I will have to remove ?

Driver Side:
1. I have heard that you have to cut the casting tab off of the block, is this necessary?
2. Would it be beneficial to disconnect fuel lines?
3. Would it be beneficial to take off coil packs or valve covers?
4. Any other advice?

Passenger side:
1. Do you need to remove the starter?
2. Do you need to remove the alternator?
3. Should I remove the coil packs or valve covers?
4. What else should I remove, or do?

Your help is greatly appreciated. This is my first time doing all of this so bare with me!!

Thanks,

James

 

Driver Side:
1. Maybe depends if it hit the tabs.
2. No.
3. No.
4. Is your car as high as you can get it? You may need to remove the steering linkage.

Passenger side:
1. No.
2. No.
3. Should I remove the coil packs yes makes getting to the header bolts a snap.
4. DipStick, and coil packs.

Let me know if you need some more help.

 

Mine were SLP's but some of this may apply.

I will reinforce what was said previously.

Drivers side:

Remove coil packs, oil filter, and steering linkage.

Passenger side:

Coil packs and dipstick.

I found it helpful to have another person up top to help guide the header and start the bolts. I also removed the motor mount bolt on the side I was working on and lifted the motor slightly for additional clearance. I used a 2 X 6 X 12" wooden block
under the oil pan and a floor jack - be gentle, you only need 1/2 inch or so.

 

Patience..Patience....Patience

 

Yeah, I know. I was out there from 2 p.m. to 4 a.m. putting in a pioneer head unit, different speakers, LS6 intake swap, and then trying to do the headers. I think I needed a break. The only thing that sucks is I have no one to help me....

What about gasket sealant....do I need it for the manifold gaskets?

 

I spent 15 hours straight installing qtp headers, arp header studs, panhard rod, panhard relocation kit, bmr driveshaft loop, had transmission rebuilt...

on my drive home after all that, both my legs cramped up just a few blocks from my house!

patience and a little help from a cousin or sibling is all I can advise.

 

Driver side
1. I ground away at the casting tab on the drivers just a little, but that's because I had already put my plugs in. I'd only do this after you try these other things first, because it might not even be necessary for you
2. Fuel lines should be fine.
3. You probably can leave the coil packs on, unless your arms are really fat and cant get them in there to tighten the bolts.
4. Yep, depending on how your headers fit, it might make it a lot easier to get it if you take off the steering linkage (or whatever it's supposed to be called).
Passenger side
1. Drop the starter if it's looking like it even "just might" cause a problem getting the header in. It's only two bolts I believe. It doesn't have to be totally disconnected, just let it hang down. While it's off, make sure none of the wires are going to be dangerously close to the header itself, and reposition them if needed. I needed to reposition one small wire because it was going to basically be laying on my headers collector.
2. Alternator should be fine, I didn't touch mine.
3. I removed the second from the front coil pack, just because that's where my hand fit in when I was bolting the header up and the damn coil pack was eating my knuckles alive. Again, you might be different, if they aren't in the way of your hand or wrench, then leave them.
4. For what it's worth, my passenger header slid in like butter. I didn't even need to jack up on the motor or anything. If it's being a pain in the *** and wont go in, try jacking up on the engine a little bit, and if more clearance is needed, you might need to loosen the engine mount. Not a big deal at all.

Hope this helps you out James. Keep in mind, I installed Pacesetters, so I'm sure fitment is a little different. Take a look at the things I mentioned above and they should help you out.
-Chris

 

Kooks are a quality product. i have QTP's and they are of similar quality. as someone already mentioned in a previous post, patience is key. also, make sure that you jack up the car high enough. i had to jack mine up really high in order for the driver's side header to fit. you don't need sealant for the header gasket. just go with the GM stock ones. they work great. if someone one could give you a hand that works wonders too. good luck.

 

That's come good advice, I am in my garage now, and I have taken off the passenger coil packs. That made it a lot easier to get the bolts of the stock manifold out. I am still trying to get the driver's side header to slide in. whenever I get frustrated, I switch sides from passenger to driver.....I didn't think it was going to be this big of a pain in the ***!!!

Keep the advice coming!!

Is it easy to get the steering linkage out, and back in once the header is in?? I tried to slide the driver's side through the bottom but it is hitting everything!

Man this is a pain in the ***, and I need my car by tomorrow morning!

 

ill def come over tonight bro, two people we should be able to fire it up tonight.........

 

Well, I managed to slide the passenger side in, but the bolts are being a bitch to line up.....do you recommend I put the #8 plug in before I bolt the headers in or doesn't it matter?

On the driver's side, I am going to start taking out the steering linkage.....it still looks like even without the linkage, it won't be able to fit.....How did you guys get yours in....bottom or top??

 

I didnt need to grind anything, I lifted the car as high on jackstands as I could (18") Disconnected the Starter, Some of the coil packs(dont remember which) On my pacesetters, steering linkage wasnt a problem whatsoever. I did end up taking off the alternator and AC Compressor b/c I did poly engine mounts at the same time. The headers could have been done in about 6 hours, but the mounts kicked my ***. I put the plugs in after all was done. I tightened the 7 & 8 plugs from underneath as well as a few of the header bolts. Made it easier IMO.

 

Ok so I loosened 2 bolts on the steering linkage (11 mm) and it still doesn't want to budge any ideas??

 

Did you put the driver's side in from the top...or bottom??

 

lift engine a lil

 

Both headers should be installed from the bottom. My passenger side slid right in and the drivers side got stuck so I beat my floor in a tiny bit and it slid right in. I wouldn't put the plugs in before you put the headers in, because you can crack them and then you would be on here with a misfire code.

When you put the plugs back in the passenger side coil packs should come off, and then the plugs will be a breeze. I'd do that side first and wrap it up with the cake side.

 

The steering linkage can be a minor bitch to get off...I had a little trouble with it. I probably "could have" gotten the driver's side header in with it still attached, but since I already had my new plugs in, I wanted that little bit of extra clearance. Now that I think of it, keep the #8 plug out, that last manifold bolt back there is a real pain to get at. You should be able to tighten the bolt from the top with a small ratchet or I used a small 1/4" air ratchet with a deep socket. Then I put the plug in from under the car. Are you doing this by yourself or do you have a helping hand? I could definitely see this being a pain in your *** trying to get those manifold bolts lined up by yourself. Another thing, If your still having problems getting that driver's side header in, your probably needing more clearance by the floorboard, that's where I had to use a prybar and give myself an inch or two of clearance there. If you can't get the steering linkage out don't worry about it, like someone else said, the headers usually don't require it to be removed, I just did mine because my plugs were already in and i didn't want to **** them up.