Hey guys I am new at this, just got my TA last week, so far I have 250 miles on it so I am still enjoying it. Oh yeah its an automatic.
But I am still looking for some upgrades to do a few months from now once I have my finaces straightened out with car payments and stuff like that.
Well anyway I was looking at spending around $1000 on upgrades and looks.
I wanted to get the ram air hood, but that would erase the entire $1000 with paint and the air system that would have to make it functional, so anyway is it really worth it?
Next I definetey want to change the exhaust, i've seen from $300-$650, what are the main differances, I like Corsa a lot, they look too cool, but at $650 its somewhat steep, but if its the flat out best then I would be willing to dish out the cash, so is the $650 really worth it? Or would I be just as happy with the American Thunder Flowmaster system, i've heard this system on mid 90's Mustangs and have to say they sound awesome, would it sound the same on my TA? Also is there a performance advantage to getting the Corsa over the Flowmaster?
Next question is the air intake system, I was looking at a K&N air intake system for $200, it claims to produce 19rwhp, sounds a little fshy, but I hope you guys could help, is this a worthy upgrade???
Next is the computer chip, i've seen them around $350, how are they, do they really work?
So in conclusion whats my best answer, I can't imagine it being the ram air hood, so how would I fair with the other upgrades? Should I go with the Corsas and 1 of the additional upgrades and if so which, or should I go with the Flowmaster, air intake, and chip???
As much information as possible would be appreciated, remember I am new at this, and have absolutely no clue about performance ugrades, I know a little about appearance upgrades and radio systems, but not much about performance.
Thanks Guys <img border="0" alt="[Firebird]" title="" src="graemlins/formula.gif" />

 

First off, congrats on the new car. I am in the same boat as you, I have only had my Z28 a few months, but I have found this board very helpful. You will find that everybody that has the Corsa loves it. I am getting an SLP dual dual system next week, and I am buying it used so I am getting a good deal on it, but it is a quiet system. I have heard Flowmaster on an LS1 Trans Am and I like it, but it is a little loud for my tastes. I think that you will find conflicting opinions about the K&N FIPK that you are talking about as it is relatively new. You can do a search and find alot of posts about it. Most of the people on the board (and I will be ordering one very soon) have an aftermarket lid and a K&N filter on their cars instead. The bottom line on the exhausts is that most of them give the same amount of horsepower (within 2-5 horsepower depending on the car/dyno conditons) so you should listen to them and decide which sound you prefer. www.thefbodyshop.com has sound files of many popular LS1 systems. That was very helpful to me, as was this board. By the way, there is a new exhaust system coming out from Gale Banks that is supposed to be stainless and great sounding. Some people have tried it and had great results and it should be available to the public in a few weeks, so you may want to look into that. Good luck and enjoy your car.

 

Here is my recommendation for you.

Mod #1: Any one of the aftermarket lids.
Like the SLP or Direct Flow Lid from LS1 Motorsports.

Mod #2: Keep your stock hood and install the Fast Toys Ram Air. (You have to perform the free ram air mod to install the FTRA so don't worry about people talking about that. If you're gonna cut the hole at least put the air scoop down there.)

Mod #3: Buy the Corsa. It's one of the best flowing and definitely the best looking from the back. Of course I'm partial to it because I own it. But it sounds awesome.

To answer your question, no, the flowmaster system will not sound the same on your car. Aluminum blocks resonate completely different than cast iron blocks do. You're not going to get the higher performance you really want either, mostly the sound.

Those should be your first mods IMHO.

Blake

 

the definative answer. you want to be fast right?

Mod 1 - TORQUE CONVERTER
Mod 2 - Lid
Mod 3 - Some stickers and ****...(you said looks up there)

thats a grand or so if you get the TC installed by someone else and pick up a trans cooler (which i recommend).

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Ryan:
<strong>the definative answer. you want to be fast right?

Mod 1 - TORQUE CONVERTER
Mod 2 - Lid
Mod 3 - Some stickers and ****...(you said looks up there)

thats a grand or so if you get the TC installed by someone else and pick up a trans cooler (which i recommend).</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Ryan hit the nail on the head. I'd get a torque converter first! You can shave an easy .5+ off of your 1/4-mile time just from the converter. You won't see that from any catback. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> If you don't have the money for a catback after you get the converter installed, just get a cutout. They're cheap, and you'll see the same performance gain. You can pick up a lid later on, but I'd just watch the classifieds section for a used lid with a K&N filter. I've seen them for sale for $100-$125 for the lid and filter.
As for catbacks, the Hooker catback has a GREAT sound and will flow equally well. I had one on my '98 T/A, and it was great. You can buy one new for around $300, and it'll show the same gain as the $600+ systems. I bought an SLP dual/dual catback used with 5,000 miles on it for $200 plus shipping, and it flows very well, too. It's going to be really quiet w/ the stock manifolds and cats, though, so keep that in mind if you're wanting the car louder.

 

just like the last two guys said.

TC first!!! you'll sh$t yourself the first time you go off the line sideways. fun stuff

then a lid or FIPK.

catback.

that's a good start. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

Ok guys Torque converter sounds cool, but what the hell is it??? Where could I find it? and are here 9 million differant companies that make it? If so which is the best and what price range are they in???

 

You are in NJ so you may want to hook up with Jason from Fbodycentral. He is in MD but it is only a few hours from you and he is really good. Check out www.easternfbody.com ask Jason section.

Torque Converter is a must 3200 at least. Get a Whisper lid from Wilwaxu on EFA and the Whisper Ram air system. Then go buy some sticky tires and do all the free mods.

Good luck

 

One more thing. Save your money and don't buy a Catback. Do a cutout (before the bend over the rear axle) and check out Magnaflow Mufflers. They sound great and run about $100.00 and flow as good or better than any. If you want looks just add some nice tips.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 2002 Trans Am:
<strong>Ok guys Torque converter sounds cool, but what the hell is it??? Where could I find it? and are here 9 million differant companies that make it? If so which is the best and what price range are they in???</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Check out www.converter.cc for some converter info. This is Yank's site, and they have an F.A.Q. section that will answer some questions for you. In its simplest explanation, a torque converter connects to the engine flywheel and transmission input shaft, and it multiplies torque. There are different things to look at, such at stall speed, stall torque ratio, diameter, etc. All of these things will affect drivability, transmission heat build-up, 60' ability at the dragstrip, how well the car stays in its powerband at WOT, etc. You might do a search in the drivetrain section for torque converters. You'll come up with a TON of information.

If you're going to get one, be sure to do it right. Yank and Precision Industries both make quality torque converters. I've tried 5 different Yanks and 4 different P.I. Vigilantes, and they're both great. These are the only two that I would recommend. I had a Vigilante 3200 in my SS, and it's a GREAT street/strip converter. You can usually find a used Vigilante in the classifieds section. They come with a two-year warranty with a free stall change within that two year period, so if you can find one for sale that still has its free stall change then it can be sent back and set to whatever stall you want. This way you'll know that the converter has been "gone through" and is in good working condition. A used Vigilante goes for ~$450-$525 if used. I'm running Yank's Pro Thruster 4400 now, and it's AWESOME! It's the best converter I've tried yet, but it's not for the lighthearted. You'll see quite a few RPM's when driving around until the converter locks up, but it doesn't bother me. I want to clarify from the beginning that the stall of a torque converter is NOT the RPM that it will take before the car starts moving. Many people get confused with that.

 

Well I have to disagree with the TC being the first mod, it will cause you to wreak your stock tranny and rearend in no time flat. It will however feel like good sex till you break something <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> . so if you want more power with less damage to start go with,
1. Lid
2. Free Ram Air mod or Fastoys package
3. Cat-back (for the Sound) I like Corsa
4. LCA with relocation brackets (no more wheel hop)

Ozz

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Ozz:
<strong>Well I have to disagree with the TC being the first mod, it will cause you to wreak your stock tranny and rearend in no time flat. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">This statement is totally incorrect. While it is true that any mod you do can cause premature breakage, getting a TC is NOT a quick death sentance for your tranny or rear-end, as a rule.

Do you realize how many of us ran for years with a high stall TC in a stock tranny? I myself did it for a year and a half and my stock tranny was still fine. I only replaced it because I’m planning to make a bunch more power that I know it won’t hold up to.

There are guys that race every weekend, daily drive their cars, and are doing fine after thousands of miles running with a bigger stall TC. The key is, keep the tranny cool by getting a cooler and you'll be ok for the most part. Try to keep temps under 200/210* and you should have little issue as a rule.

PS. My axle and gears are fine too. Even after launching with a 3500 stall and sticky drag radials many, many times.

<small>[ April 30, 2002, 03:02 PM: Message edited by: RPM WS6 ]</small>

 

I agree 110% with RPM WS6

 

OK here's the thing, I don't really plan on taking this car to the drag strip that often, maybe 2-3 times duringits lifetime, my intentions with this car is to use it as a daily driver for the next 6 years or so until I could afford a Z06, then put the TA away for years until I have kids that could drive it.
Now my question is, would a TC at all affect the longevity of the car?
And what is the differance between 2600,2800,3200 stalls???

 

Well, first thing you need to do is alot of reading to learn about this stuff.

A Toque Converter is what automotic cars have instead of a clutch. The stall of a converter is what the 2600, 2800, 3200 stands for. To illustrate this to you further when you go for a drive in the morning or the next time you take out the T/A stop on the gas from a dead stop. You will notice as soon as the car starts to move the engine RPMs will jump to 2000 rpm and then go up from there. That is what the stall is on a stock car. Going to a higher T/C will make this higher everytime. Kind of like a droping the clutch at a higher RPM. Now you can also see this buy holding you foot on the brake when you are stopped and giving it some gas, you will see the T/C stall speed then. If you are not going to drag race the car a T/C is not really needed, yes a smaller stall one will be a good driveable mod, but not the best thing for a daily driver.

I would suggest a Air Lid with Holley or K&N filter and the free ram air mod. That by far is the first mod you need to do to your car. The Corsa system is awesome and has great quality and sound. Getting ported Mass Airflow Ends (MAF Ends), not a larger MAF from granetelli or SLP because for that to work you need programing, but the ported ends will give you a little more power, and a ported stock throttle body (T/B) would also help.

Actually a lid, Corsa and ported stock T/B will get you the best daily driveable bang for the buck.

<img src="http://sjantzer.freewebspace.com/images/portedtb3.jpg" alt="" />

This is what I mean about a ported t/b. This guy does ported T/B along with other people. T/B

 

Oh ok, that what I figured about the stalls.
Also your right about me not knowing anything, I am pretty new at this stuff, I know a lot about cars, but when it comes to engine stuff and racing I am pretty lost.
Also probably a newbie question, but when you guys talk about SLP parts, do you refer to parts that would normally come on a Firehawk? Being that SLP would be the indication for a Firehawk when ordering one.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by SStrokerAce:
<strong>If you are not going to drag race the car a T/C is not really needed, yes a smaller stall one will be a good driveable mod, but not the best thing for a daily driver.

</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Again, I disagree. There is nothing wrong with a TC in a daily driver. Especially if you get a 3500 or less rpm stall and have a quiet exhaust with 3.23 or numerically bigger gears. Most get used to the looseness in a few short hours.

IMO, a TC is always needed in an A4 to really make it perform. Remember, the higher stall not only helps you from a launch but from a roll as well. A higher stall will raise your shift extension (rpm to which your motor drops to after an upshift) and slip you into your power band (higher rpm) quicker at a punch from a roll.

Don’t ever let anyone tell you that a stall is only needed if you’re going to take your car to a drag strip often. It will make a huge difference on the street as well. Many people have them in their daily drivers. Maybe you can find someone local to you that will let you drive their car with a stall in it. I’m pretty sure you will like it <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

Thank you I will definetly look into that some more, like you said I hope I can meet someone with it, so I can try it out on my own

 

BTW... I run a UT-4600 in my only car.

It's all in what you like with a daily driver... I think a big converter car is fun to drive!

My only suggestion. Go with at least a Yank ST-3500 or a Vig. 3200 when you do decide.