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Old May 4, 2007 | 08:26 PM
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Default Header Questions

Which header do you guys think is better as far as performance and clearance....hooker or pacesetter?

Also do I need to order emmisions style headers or race style headers for my 01 T/A?

Thanks!!
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Old May 5, 2007 | 12:34 AM
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Performance is going to be nearly identical for all LTs, fitment is usually close, not positive on these two brands. I believe emissions headers for an '01 will consist of AIR only, but you can do away with this easily enough by buying race headers and tuning out the codes. If you're somewhere where you'd like to be able to put the AIR on now or in the future, you could also order the emissions headers and just block them off with block-off plates, although there's really no good reason to do this because all LTs are non-compliant with emissions regulations because they move the location of the cats...so why not save the time and hassle and just go race?
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Old May 5, 2007 | 12:49 AM
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Sorry if this is gonna sound stupid but what is this AIR thing your talking about?
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Old May 5, 2007 | 12:57 AM
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AIR is what heads up the cats to operating temperature. If you ditch the cats, "theoretically" there's no need for the AIR system. It kicks on for about 1.5 minutes when you first start the car, then it shuts off and it takes a coffee break. I have mine merely for aesthetical reasons (I.E. inspection visual if need be).

-J
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Old May 5, 2007 | 01:26 AM
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If you're gonna start modding your car, you should definitely read the stickies to learn as much as you can about this stuff. There are stickies at the top of most sections to give you a head-start on the most commonly discussed topics. Most people here are pretty cool about repetitive questions, you can avoid this altogether though by doing a little research of your own up front. These might be of interest to you:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/500407-egr-air-o2-sensors-motor-tranny-mount-faq.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/520845-mod-guide-induction-exhaust-please-read-before-posting.html
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Old May 5, 2007 | 01:36 AM
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so getting rid of this air system does what exactly? besides getting rid of that whistle noise at start up?
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Old May 5, 2007 | 10:50 AM
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Dude! Let me put it another way: Check out those links I put in my last post, because they will answer all your questions about AIR. If you have more questions after reading those, come back and ask away.
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Old May 5, 2007 | 12:35 PM
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I installed my Pacesetter with ory Y for almost 5 months and it's pretty good.
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Old May 5, 2007 | 12:38 PM
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gets rid of about 15 unwanted pounds, cleans up your engine bay for working, and just does away with bs....

i like my pacesetters on my TD's
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Old May 5, 2007 | 01:23 PM
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I did read both of those threads neither one told what the benifit of getting rid of it was or keeping it.
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Old May 5, 2007 | 01:43 PM
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If you ditch it, you may fail visual inspection if your state has it. Other than that I can't think of a single bad thing about getting rid of it, ESPECIALLY if you don't even have cats.

-J
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Old May 5, 2007 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by my01ws6
I did read both of those threads neither one told what the benifit of getting rid of it was or keeping it.
I guess I don't understand what you mean by "neither one told me what the benefit of getting rid of it was or keeping it."

From the first link:

AIR - Air Injection Recirculation - Emissions controll device. Injects fresh air into the exhaust gas before the cats. Helps them heat up to reach "emissions light off" faster.

Removal Pro's:
Weight, clean bay, no more annoying sound on startup, spare rubber hose to use on other stuff.
Removal Con's:
Only worry about VERY strict visuals (read: California) causing failure. Sniffer test can only tell before car is warmed up. After car reaches operating temp, the AIR pump shuts off and becomes useless. SES light will come on if system is removed unless codes are tuned out. Blockoff plates for exhaust manifolds required unless using "race" headers.

In other words, you'll experience the following results by removing the AIR system:

-You won't be injecting air into the exhaust before your cats
-You won't be "lighting off" your cats as quickly
-You will save a little weight, don't know if it's 15 pounds, probably more like 5
-Your engine bay will be less cluttered
-You won't hear a wheezing sound at startup
-You will have some spare rubber hose lying around
-You will be in jeopardy at emissions time if you have strict visuals
-Sniffer test will be a problem if you take it within 2 minutes of cold start
-Your SES light will come on unless you have the codes removed
-You will need block off plates on your headers, unless you go with race ones

What else is there to know? The only thing left for you to do is decide...
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Old May 5, 2007 | 02:13 PM
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what if I DO have cats....I think I am going to go with a catted Y pipe....cause I dont want the rasp and gas smell
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Old May 5, 2007 | 02:24 PM
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The cats reach operating temperature within a very short time. The only reason for the AIR injection is to add oxygen to the hot exhaust gasses to cause the cats to heat up more quickly. After the first couple minutes, the AIR system turns off and does nothing. If you were to hypothetically park your car in the emissions testing station overnight, and in the morning, you turned it on and immediately took a sniffer test, you would fail the test because the cats wouldn't be doing their job yet. But after the car has been running for just a couple minutes, the cats reach operating temperature and they do what they're supposed to, and there is no problem.

SO, you can remove your AIR system and still run cats and have no problems, except you'll need to have the codes removed too because otherwise your SES light will come on.
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Old May 5, 2007 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Intragration
The cats reach operating temperature within a very short time. The only reason for the AIR injection is to add oxygen to the hot exhaust gasses to cause the cats to heat up more quickly. After the first couple minutes, the AIR system turns off and does nothing. If you were to hypothetically park your car in the emissions testing station overnight, and in the morning, you turned it on and immediately took a sniffer test, you would fail the test because the cats wouldn't be doing their job yet. But after the car has been running for just a couple minutes, the cats reach operating temperature and they do what they're supposed to, and there is no problem.

SO, you can remove your AIR system and still run cats and have no problems, except you'll need to have the codes removed too because otherwise your SES light will come on.


-J
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