Brandon_TA

iTrader: (1)

I have a 2002 Trans Am (not ram air) I am not sure what klind of thermostat comes factory in it. Would it be a good idea to install a 160 deg, or a 180?? if so how much should I gain?

Nice4thgenZ

iTrader: (10)

i would run a 160 therm. that is what i run, but im not sure on the gains

killer01ws6

I have the 160,
BUT you will not see any gains from just a therm swap. and if you do not adjust the fans (predator,edit, manual fan switch) it will not change you temp anyway.
The reason I changed is for protection reasons here in gods country ( he he) as well as with the predator I can adust the timing up for more hp, and when you adjust the timing and the motor is to hot you will predet. oh BTW you will loss 1 to 2 mpg most times depending what heat range you set the fans too and this has no bearing on any timing adjustment it is temp related. and remember our temp gages are not accurte at all, I have my fans set so my temp is 185 at full oper temp according to my live monitoring via predator.
Hope this helps clear it up a little.

Pete

Biochem

LOL, there's enough reason! I think he's asking for an actual reason and not some guess

I don't see a reason to run one beyond that a 160 might lead to a little better consistancy between runs. The best combustion typically occurs at higher temps (like 225F IIRC), but that is near the limits of water/antifreeze tollerances. Remember, your car is programmed/designed to run with a 180 thermostat, so I'd just leave it as is... I plan to, so you should too.

TheDogofWar

iTrader: (2)

thats actually 195 stock I believe. It depends on your location and driving conditions. Most will agree that 180 seems to be an optimal temp for the LS1. If you have moderate weather 180 stat might work well, in a warmer climate a 160 might be desired.

killer01ws6

YEP that was me exactly, Ga and FL both get quite hot in july and aug,
ping city with advanced timing

sawedoff

iTrader: (3)

I wouldn't use either. If anything I would go warmer like say, to keep the engine at around 215degrees. If you get above 220degrees then you start having problems. Running an engine in the range that either of those stats makes, is only dumping all your energy into your cooling system. I run about 215 degrees, in my track cars, and my BSFC improves along with mileage and horspower. The rings seal better (less blowby), and you have increased cylinder pressure. The higher temp also burns off the condensation in your oil. Make sure you pick a good quality oil. I don't know who comes up with that crap of using these stupid low temp thermostats, but it's pure ****.Probably the clown tryin' to sell the next doodad, or trinket.

AzzHauler

iTrader: (3)

Also makes it more prone to getting knock retard. I just put a 160 in and have seen the temp drop to the upper 170's (with programming, only 1 fan system). I have also seen the kr go away. Even added a couple degrees. fwiw.

01redws6ta

My 01 Trans Am owner's manual notes 180 degrees as the stock thermostat temp. You should look in your owner's manual, it will tell.

BTW, I disagree with the "March Hare" for the most part.

I am running an SLP 160 degree stat which actually opens at 175 degrees and closes around 170. A stat that actually operated at 160 would set a code and turn on the SES light under stock PCM programming.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

With a 4200 stall, FTRA, and a tranny cooler, I run a 160 t-stat. Otherwise in town the temps build quickly and it also keeps the tranny temps cooler.

Most track testing reported here seems to show that coolant temps around 185 - 195* produce the best results from our motors. A 160 kicks the fans on a bit early, but the temps climb a bit during burnout and staging; and they can really climb during the summer if the car gets hot-lapped.

I may get a tiny bit of HP from the 160 since I have higher than stock timing, but I have the 160 T-Stat because I like staying on the slightly cooler side rather bumping up to over 215*.

Xerxes

iTrader: (1)

You will not gain any power over stock. If anything, you will lose it. I've seen it so many of times on the dyno. LS1s seem to run strong with stock thermostat. IMHO, just leave it be.

HumpinSS

iTrader: (1)

I have a 160 therm and today i just got my fans reprogrammed and so far havent seen a diff in temps. I am thinking about going to a 185 since i think it will help more than the 160

killer01ws6

humpinss,
just adjust your fans to be in the range you are looking for, no need to replace therm at this point.

Fahad

The factory TS it's 190* , after i install the 160* TS, my temp it's changed too much without any tuning

I bought the TS 160* here in kuwait 22 KD, in dolar $80.00 for LS1.

Good luck

WS6 GreeN

Should you get a 160 TStat if you are running headers? I've heard headers raise the under hood temp and to me that would only help to have a stat?

WS6 RULES

You have a 180 now! Your temp reads 210 but thats not true. If you go to a dealer and ask for a new thermostat they will hand you a 180. I have a 2002 and checked the coolant temp, it was 177 and the gauge read 210.

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

i have a 160 thermo and have the fans to turn on earily i live in fl where its 95 deg all summer long i dont know how the car would even run without this cheep mod beacouse i know that for any non highway driving its a must to keep my engine for gettin hoT. And for a reason to get a lower thermo id say reliabilty the ls1 will run longer with less problems (imo) if cooled from stock temps beacouse the factory gets em hot so they will run cleaner but this is not so good for your engine. also i have never had a problem from this mod the only innicodent ive ever had is actually an arguemnt for the use of this and it is i had to unintsall my hypertech tunning cause on very hot days id get high rpm knock and im sure that if i didnt have this installed would had even more knock and probally had to remove my maf. but since the engine can use a bit more timming (since it runs cooler) i can get by with the maf

killer01ws6

Jpr,
I agree with your statements however, I think part of your deprogam issue is that you have a 02, and 01 and 02's just in whole don't care much for a maf ( aftermarket that is) I know there have been some issues with the predator and maf combos, which is gonna be the same issue with the hpp3 and a maf, two devices both viaing for controll of the timing.
Pete

Cool Z

I just put a 180* in my Z28. I went with a 180 because in the cooler months, my piston slap never fully went away with the 160*. It was faint but still there. Replaced it with the stock stat and it would get completly quiet. But with the stock stat, Knock Retard became an issue when it became warmer outside. Now with the 180* it gets warm enough to eliminate the piston slap, and yet cool enough to prevent detonation. FWIW the stock stat has 86 stamped on it and the 180* stat had 82c/180f stamped on it. If you mathematically convert the 86c to F it is 188. 82c to F is 179.9.
My 2000 F body service manual states the normal performing t-stat begins to open at 188*F/87C and is fully open at 206*F/97C.

black_z

iTrader: (4)

I would also leave the stock thermostat.