Holley Wieland LS6 manifold
DId a search and didn't find too much Would Like anyones opinions on these manifolds between the Holley, Wieland, LS6 and the Fast 78? Thanks for your help and opinions.
ahm=dont know much on the holley and wieland-but the fast 78 rocks-but the fast 90 rocks even better from what i have heard-thats why i bought 1-
fast stuff is not cheap-thats for sure-
why not a fast 90- is it cost or just a personal thing
i know the ls6 is a better and bigger improvment over the ls1 inlet-
fast stuff is not cheap-thats for sure-
why not a fast 90- is it cost or just a personal thing
i know the ls6 is a better and bigger improvment over the ls1 inlet-
Out of the 'plastic' intakes (LS6, FAST 78/90) depends on what else has been done to the engine and whether or not you are N/A or FI?
Metal intakes=better for nitrous apps (IMO) due to durability (able to withstand nitrous backfire)
On a stock bore/stroke LS1/LS6:
N/A
Basically stock car (i.e. bolt-on's, factory heads, stock verter) either LS6 or FAST78 - but LS6 would be more than adequate for this application - no need to spend $$ on the FAST.
If you have better quality heads (AFR, etc.), and have chosen your cam correctly, headers and better flowing exhaust, along with proper TQ verter/gear selection to keep your car in it's powerband - FAST90 makes more power if you're trying to get every last bit out of the car.
FI
Definitely go with the FAST90 in conjunction with larger port heads (i.e. 225's) No need to try and keep port velocity up in a FI app by using smaller port heads as the main goal is to allow the SC to cram as much air into the engine as possible.
Nitrous
I personally would go with an aluminum intake for durability. I've seen what happens after a nitrous backfire - plastic intakes frag all thru the engine compartment-possibly taking out other critical parts like your rad
Out of the aluminum intakes currently available I would use the BBK over Weiand or PP due to the sheer fact that it uses the factory o-ring style gaskets and I have heard nothing bad about them. PP intake supposedly has sealing problems, Weiand has same sealing style (flat gasket) plus has not corrected some of the problems with the rear ports interfering with oil sending unit (PP intake was patterned after Weiand in this area but has since corrected the interference problem on their intakes).
No need to worry about heat soak problems with metal intake over plastic - that is only relevant in carburated applications using mechanical fuel pumps. NE1 that tells you that factory used plastic intake for this reason is kidding themselves - factory used plastic due to it's greatly reduced cost to manufacture over a foundry cast aluminum intake & weight reduction (you would be amazed at the hoops the engineers jump thru to pare off a little weight here and there in order to meet the federal mileage standards).
In the end, if you do a search on Patrick G and the success he has had (with help from Tony Mamo) selecting components to get a N/A car in the 500rwhp range without any power adders; you will find a wealth of info on the proper combo of intake/cam/heads to go with.
-Jay-
Metal intakes=better for nitrous apps (IMO) due to durability (able to withstand nitrous backfire)
On a stock bore/stroke LS1/LS6:
N/A
Basically stock car (i.e. bolt-on's, factory heads, stock verter) either LS6 or FAST78 - but LS6 would be more than adequate for this application - no need to spend $$ on the FAST.
If you have better quality heads (AFR, etc.), and have chosen your cam correctly, headers and better flowing exhaust, along with proper TQ verter/gear selection to keep your car in it's powerband - FAST90 makes more power if you're trying to get every last bit out of the car.
FI
Definitely go with the FAST90 in conjunction with larger port heads (i.e. 225's) No need to try and keep port velocity up in a FI app by using smaller port heads as the main goal is to allow the SC to cram as much air into the engine as possible.
Nitrous
I personally would go with an aluminum intake for durability. I've seen what happens after a nitrous backfire - plastic intakes frag all thru the engine compartment-possibly taking out other critical parts like your rad
Out of the aluminum intakes currently available I would use the BBK over Weiand or PP due to the sheer fact that it uses the factory o-ring style gaskets and I have heard nothing bad about them. PP intake supposedly has sealing problems, Weiand has same sealing style (flat gasket) plus has not corrected some of the problems with the rear ports interfering with oil sending unit (PP intake was patterned after Weiand in this area but has since corrected the interference problem on their intakes).
No need to worry about heat soak problems with metal intake over plastic - that is only relevant in carburated applications using mechanical fuel pumps. NE1 that tells you that factory used plastic intake for this reason is kidding themselves - factory used plastic due to it's greatly reduced cost to manufacture over a foundry cast aluminum intake & weight reduction (you would be amazed at the hoops the engineers jump thru to pare off a little weight here and there in order to meet the federal mileage standards).
In the end, if you do a search on Patrick G and the success he has had (with help from Tony Mamo) selecting components to get a N/A car in the 500rwhp range without any power adders; you will find a wealth of info on the proper combo of intake/cam/heads to go with.
-Jay-






