LT1 vs LS1 radiator pics
08-27-2007, 12:18 AM
#21
Originally Posted by ONEBADASSWS6
My 98 has a low coolant level sensor...wonder if they did away with it after that year?? I've heard complaints of them getting gummed up and setting the low coolant light even though the coolant level was fine, so maybe that had something to do with it.
08-27-2007, 11:19 AM
#23
Originally Posted by MeentSS02
The plastic sides were a big turn off to me...and one of the biggest reasons why I went with the BeCool unit. I'm hoping it is the last radiator I'll ever have to buy for this car.
the plastic on mine cracked which was the whole reason I upgraded... if i saw a radiator with plastic on it while i was shopping for one that was a definate "NO" in my book...
08-27-2007, 01:48 PM
#24
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How does the BeCool mount to the body?
I thought that the plastic end caps were there for some vibration absorbtion, as well as being super cheap compared to all aluminum...
Does the BeCool have sturdy mounting tabs in stock location?
I thought that the plastic end caps were there for some vibration absorbtion, as well as being super cheap compared to all aluminum...
Does the BeCool have sturdy mounting tabs in stock location?
08-27-2007, 03:19 PM
#25
If you get an LT1 radiator make sure its a pre-97 since the 97's only have a 1" core. I also upgraded to a becool since my stock radiator didn't exactly keep my car cool on the road coarse. The only thing I had to do to get it to fit was cut about an inch off all of the hoses and drill new holes on the top radiator support about an inch farther back than the stock holes.
08-27-2007, 03:25 PM
#26
Originally Posted by gun5l1ng3r
How does the BeCool mount to the body?
I thought that the plastic end caps were there for some vibration absorbtion, as well as being super cheap compared to all aluminum...
Does the BeCool have sturdy mounting tabs in stock location?
I thought that the plastic end caps were there for some vibration absorbtion, as well as being super cheap compared to all aluminum...
Does the BeCool have sturdy mounting tabs in stock location?
08-27-2007, 05:36 PM
#28
Originally Posted by gun5l1ng3r
How does the BeCool mount to the body?
I thought that the plastic end caps were there for some vibration absorbtion, as well as being super cheap compared to all aluminum...
Does the BeCool have sturdy mounting tabs in stock location?
I thought that the plastic end caps were there for some vibration absorbtion, as well as being super cheap compared to all aluminum...
Does the BeCool have sturdy mounting tabs in stock location?
08-28-2007, 11:03 AM
#33
Originally Posted by tici
Dumb question: why isn't everyone installing some used LT1 cooler?
By the way: over here it's almost impossible to find a used cooler and in the US they go for $50 - $100. Who would be so kind and help me to find one + shipping?
By the way: over here it's almost impossible to find a used cooler and in the US they go for $50 - $100. Who would be so kind and help me to find one + shipping?
08-28-2007, 12:15 PM
#34
Originally Posted by MeentSS02
A LT1 radiator isn't a direct drop-in (you have to do some minor mods depending on the year of the car you are putting it in).
What other mods? Mine is a 1998 M6.
Is that an option to leave it alone and add an oil cooler?
Same result?
08-28-2007, 04:15 PM
#35
Originally Posted by tici
You mean blocking an hole because of a missing sensor in the LS1?
What other mods? Mine is a 1998 M6.
Is that an option to leave it alone and add an oil cooler?
Same result?
What other mods? Mine is a 1998 M6.
Is that an option to leave it alone and add an oil cooler?
Same result?
What are you trying to achieve? Cooler oil temps?
08-28-2007, 05:14 PM
#36
My goal is to maintain a relatively low coolant temperature without letting the fans turning all the time.
Right now I need 200-210F at WOT, this means that while cruising the ECT should be 190-195F. In summer the car speed (highway) is not enough to reach this temperature and the low speed fans are always on.
I honestly don't know if this is good for the fans motors. Maybe it's not an issue, maybe it shortens their life...
Right now I need 200-210F at WOT, this means that while cruising the ECT should be 190-195F. In summer the car speed (highway) is not enough to reach this temperature and the low speed fans are always on.
I honestly don't know if this is good for the fans motors. Maybe it's not an issue, maybe it shortens their life...
08-28-2007, 06:45 PM
#37
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http://www.xse.com/leres/ss/radiator.html
That will tell you just about all you need to know about the SLP and LT1 radiator. It is a good source of info.
That will tell you just about all you need to know about the SLP and LT1 radiator. It is a good source of info.
09-25-2007, 04:58 PM
#39
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It has been awhile but I figured I would give my results to everyone. I did not hook up HP tuners to it yet but the car runs a lot cooler now with the LT1 radiator. In stop and go traffic I would hit 210 and stay there now she stays around 180 in stop and go. That is still in the Florida heat.
09-26-2007, 05:39 AM
#40
Originally Posted by Spade
It has been awhile but I figured I would give my results to everyone. I did not hook up HP tuners to it yet but the car runs a lot cooler now with the LT1 radiator. In stop and go traffic I would hit 210 and stay there now she stays around 180 in stop and go. That is still in the Florida heat.
What year is your car? Is there something you had to modify? Or is it just a drop in?
Mine is a 98, can I pick up no matter radiator from a 93-06 F-Body?
Stefano