Do Not Epoxy Your Tb
#21
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Believe it or not, I used large, aluminum knitting needles from Walmart (maybe 3/8" Dia?). I cut a chunk out of them like a straw to keep the air passsages open and then used the putty-style epoxy. I have had this set-up for 2-3 years without problems.
Steve
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#22
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The epoxy in my old ported stock TB stayed in there solidly and didnt throw codes for years. Just becasue yours is screwed up and didnt get done right doesnt mean we all shouldnt do it.
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i have had mine for about 2 yrs with no problem i would get 250 miles per tank city with the m6 226 patriot cam now with a4 and stall and ms4 i get 200 i thought i was doin good thats doin a couple wot runs for a 1st to 2nd shift.
#32
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not to be a total dick but. if you know hoe to do it correctly, and many MANY TB porters did and still do this without problems, I know I enver have. if you correctly fill in the area, clean and prep the surface etc its nothing, if you dont well then. here we go with your thread
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I have back to back dyno graphs with a 6 rwhp and 4 rwtq gain.. The real increase is in the throttle response... I also have a Shaner T/B with epoxy and brass tubes in the air holes for years now... It's the best way to do it , it does'nt hit that wall so to speak when air enters and smoothes out the air path...
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I've ported over 20TBs w/ epoxy. I will admit, I have had trouble with 1 or 2 because of the reasons stated above but as long as you know what you're doing your IAC will work fine and get plenty of air. Your pcv return will be just fine, but the IAC is the most important.
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Just wanted everyone to know NOT to put epoxy on your TB (where the vacuum hose gets air and the sensor) THE REASON NOT TO IS that the air will not flow right and will set off your SES light and throw codes P0171 and P0174 – running too lien on both banks… and like me you will get crappy gas mileage (200 miles per tank *with grandma shifting and driving*)
HAHA
I WISH I got that mileage
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