Break Master Cylinder HELP!!
Break Master Cylinder HELP!! so i took my car to the dealer becuase its making this horrible noise...like when your brakes need replacement...breaks screech when i break and when i'm not breaking either...dealer told me the break pads are still good but that its the break master cylinder thats not holding the pressure anymore...they wanted to charge me $550 for parts and labor...me and my buddy are gonna replace it...he said were also gonna have to bleed the lines and that its a bitch to do that...i have no clue how to do it so if anybody could give me some pointers on how to do it and what is the easiest way it would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!!
You fill the master cylinder up with fluid, pump it up via a screw driver into the back, while covering the brake line ports, and then relieving the pressure by opening the ports, and repeat it.
To bleed the brakes you will crack open all the bleeder screws ont he brakes first, then close them(just to make sure none are seized). Now you will check to make sure there is fluid in the resivior, NEVER let the fluid run low while in this process. Then you will have someone pump the pedal about 5 times, and you will open the bleeder screw until the air gets out, do this about 3 time per wheel, or until all the air is out of each one.
Start off at the back passanger side, the back driver side, then front passanger side, then front driver side.
To bleed the brakes you will crack open all the bleeder screws ont he brakes first, then close them(just to make sure none are seized). Now you will check to make sure there is fluid in the resivior, NEVER let the fluid run low while in this process. Then you will have someone pump the pedal about 5 times, and you will open the bleeder screw until the air gets out, do this about 3 time per wheel, or until all the air is out of each one.
Start off at the back passanger side, the back driver side, then front passanger side, then front driver side.
You fill the master cylinder up with fluid, pump it up via a screw driver into the back, while covering the brake line ports, and then relieving the pressure by opening the ports, and repeat it.
To bleed the brakes you will crack open all the bleeder screws ont he brakes first, then close them(just to make sure none are seized). Now you will check to make sure there is fluid in the resivior, NEVER let the fluid run low while in this process. Then you will have someone pump the pedal about 5 times, and you will open the bleeder screw until the air gets out, do this about 3 time per wheel, or until all the air is out of each one.
Start off at the back passanger side, the back driver side, then front passanger side, then front driver side.
To bleed the brakes you will crack open all the bleeder screws ont he brakes first, then close them(just to make sure none are seized). Now you will check to make sure there is fluid in the resivior, NEVER let the fluid run low while in this process. Then you will have someone pump the pedal about 5 times, and you will open the bleeder screw until the air gets out, do this about 3 time per wheel, or until all the air is out of each one.
Start off at the back passanger side, the back driver side, then front passanger side, then front driver side.
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oh by the way...since you know about this sort of stuff...today i raced an evo on the freeway...slowed down to about a 30mph roll and hit it from 1st...shifted to 2nd and let off becuase there is a car that switched into my lane...i take it out of gear as i'm braking and when i try to get back into gear i can't because my clutch pedal is stuck to the floor...it stays there for about 10 seconds and slowly comes back to normal...its happened to me about 4-5 times now and its driving me crazy!! any idea what it might be??
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Verdad Gallardo Um...not good is what that is haha. I don't mess with manuals that much but....sounds like a hydraulic issue. Post it in the manual trans section, because that deffinitly is not a good thing.