looking for tips & advice on lt & ory install
Second, make sure you have all of the tools you need. Go buy a 10mm gear ratchet from lowes or similar store. It will be your best friend for most of the job. Other than that, just a good set of metric wrenches and sockets will do. An impact helped with the rusty manifold to pipe bolts, but it isnt a must. Have a can of PB penetrating spray handy and dont be afraid to use it. It will help loosen the bolts.
Heres how I did the removal:
First I unbolted the coil packs from the valve covers. That give you a lot more room to get to the manifold bolts. With the coil packs off, I didnt have much trouble getting a wrench on any of the manifold bolts. Next you want to get the car as high as you can. Everything will have to come out and go in from the bottom. From there I unbolted all O2 sensors. If you plan on using an off road Y, then you can just unplug the rears from the wiring harness since you wont need then anyway. Remove the Y pipe and set it aside. Its only a few bolts, 8 I think. If you snap the bolts while trying to break them loose its ok, you wont reuse anything from the stock pipes. From here, only the manifolds should be left. Get a stool, or lower the car and unbolt them. Its 6 bolts on each side, then they should come out easily from the bottom. You will need to take the oil dipstick tube off of the passengers side also. I never removed my spark plugs. I had plenty of room with them in place. You might have to remove them for clerance, its also the perfect time to change them if needed. Before I put a wrench on any bolt minus the coil pack bolts, I soaked it with PB spray and let it soak for about 5 min before removing it. I didnt have one bolt give me any trouble.
Heres how the install went:
I tackled the passenger side header first. It went in easily, bolted up no problem. I reused the stock gaskets, and have on leaks so far. The drivers side was a little more tricky. I had to cut the casting tab on the side of the block before it would go in place. It took about 2 min with a sawzall. Some people have to remove the steering shaft also, mine just barely cleared it once I cut the tab. Once the headers are in place slide the Y pipe in place. Leave all the bolts slightly loose until you have everything in place so you can make little adjustments if needed. Once everything's in place start tightening everything starting from the front and working back. Tighten the headers from the inside out. Replace the O2 sensors, using the necessary extensions for the front sensors. Last install the coil packs, double check everything , then check it one more time.
Now fire it up, enjoy the new sound and go for a drive




