ginop524

iTrader: (1)

doing my headders and ypipe tonight any tips or tricks you guys have learned..

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Patience. A lift is worth its weight in gold, and if you don't have a lift, jack it up as far as you can. With my Kooks headers, I didn't have to remove the steering linkage or jack the engine at any point in the install. It will take a while to get the rusted old exhaust **** off though...

ginop524

iTrader: (1)

yea i figued that, i do have a lift to use and luckally my car just turned over 10,000 miles so its still a baby so i figure it souldnt be bad at all

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

if the bolts are stuck,,,PB Blaster is your friend.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

You'll probably be fine then...it really is nothing more than unbolting the old stuff and sliding the new stuff in. You'll get pretty scratched up though doing this install...not as bad as doing motor mounts though.

2000_SS

iTrader: (24)

watch out for those damn heat shields....they're everywhere and razor sharp...at least they were on my old pewter SS. good luck, patience is a blessing if you have it...

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

I also went through a lot of PB Blaster...for some reason, even if the car is well kept, the exhaust is always a rusted POS...

TheSilverOne

iTrader: (22)

poly or solid motors mounts while the exhaust manifolds are off

ginop524

iTrader: (1)

yea i thought of that, too late though so looks like the mounts are gunna be another day

WS6_00

iTrader: (10)

well since you have a lift it wont be bad at all, the bolts can be a bit tricky to get in but besides that

Grifter

iTrader: (12)

Agreed!

Don't worry about it. Motor mounts are not as hard as everyone on here says they are, atleast they weren't for me.

cowboysfan

u can reuse stock gaskets....after ur first run let engine cool off (next day) and re-torque bolts with eng cold.....

myfast70

iTrader: (38)

x2 You will regret it if you wait until later!

I've got Kooks on my car and could not be happier with the fit and finish. Passenger side just slips right in. For the driver's side, hold the flange for cyl #1 in the 12 o'clock postion and the collecter in the 6 o'clock position and slide the header up and rotate the collector upwards and it should fall into place. I did not have to cut, bend or clearence anything at all to make them fit.

ginop524

iTrader: (1)

finished the install was just a little busy last night. took about 3 hours with me and a friend (and a lift) to do the headders and the y pipe. absolutely flawless didnt have to disconnect or clearance anything it went in like butter just unbolt and rebolt. theyre product lives up to their name no doubt about it. and the power and sound you get are great. thanks all for the help and tips it really made everything that much easier
Nick

RareBreed0295

iTrader: (35)

Good to hear. I installed my Kooks the other week and was happy with them also. What exhaust are you going with?

ginop524

iTrader: (1)

i have that exhaust that comes with the 345 slp package and am pretty pleased with the sound. i dont want to go much louder than what i am. i love the borla square tips but not too sure i like more on the raspy sounding exhaust but like i said dont want ot go much louder than what the car is now. i know im probably being dumb by spending soo much on the headders and y pipe and not getting the exhaust but im not sure on what to get if i do as to not make it too crazy loud. any suggestions???

RareBreed0295

iTrader: (35)

You probably have the slp lm on there. If you are planning on doing a h/c swap also....ive heard that the slp lm is unbearable after that. If you think it sounds good now though, keep it like that. i had the lm on mine at first but i went to a TD setup. Wont ever go back either.

ginop524

iTrader: (1)

sounds good thanks for the advice

RareBreed0295

iTrader: (35)

Just glad to hear the install went ok. My driver's side header was the hardest part. Tight....