LS6 intake swap
Just did this swap myself a few months ago, everything will bolt up the same, unless you have the EGR that will not, LS6 manifolds dont have the port. The only thing that is different is under the manifold, the steel cooling lines, the LS1 intake is curved upwards on the bottom while the ls6 is flat, you can buy the ls6 coolant lines for like 50$ or you can take a grinder to the bottom of your LS6 and knock off some of the ridges, alot of people do this, I DID, and some dont, some say they dont want to for appearance reasons, How in the world someone could ever see it IDK. Some say that it could weaken the manifold, no way those ridges are there from the casting. the support comes from the runner edges. If you are putting a used manifold on go to autozone and spend the 22 bucks for new intake O-rings.
Here is a link for installation, it is for the fast intake but the procedure is really about the same. Be careful with the oil pressure sending unit behind the intake, when removing lift the intake up first and then forward, if not you will make a 50$ mistake TRUST ME I DID.
As far as the tuning You dont NEED it if you just swap the intake the car will run just fine, with headers a cold air intake and good exhaust sure, but remember a tune can help put a little power into even the bone stock car. Hope this helps
Here is a link for installation, it is for the fast intake but the procedure is really about the same. Be careful with the oil pressure sending unit behind the intake, when removing lift the intake up first and then forward, if not you will make a 50$ mistake TRUST ME I DID.
As far as the tuning You dont NEED it if you just swap the intake the car will run just fine, with headers a cold air intake and good exhaust sure, but remember a tune can help put a little power into even the bone stock car. Hope this helps
Also don't forget to lube up your injector o-rings before installing them back into the intake. And make sure to press HARD all the way around the fuel rail to assure the injectors are seated properly. They "snap" in place, but I've done it myself where one will not be seated properly and I'll have to reinstall the rail while in the car (PITA).
As said above, be careful of the oil sending unit. You will need a fuel line disconnect tool to move the fuel line out of the way thats connected to the rail. Intake bolts are 8mm. The vacuum hose that comes from the brake booster and goes to the back of the intake is usually a MF'er to get off, so be prepared for that and don't yank to hard before removing it. When unbolting the intake, remove as many of the bolts as you can before attempting to slide it out. Those bolts will get caught on EVERYTHING as you try to remove it.
Thats about it. Take your time, remember everything is plastic. If something feels caught or stuck, it probably is so don't yank.
As said above, be careful of the oil sending unit. You will need a fuel line disconnect tool to move the fuel line out of the way thats connected to the rail. Intake bolts are 8mm. The vacuum hose that comes from the brake booster and goes to the back of the intake is usually a MF'er to get off, so be prepared for that and don't yank to hard before removing it. When unbolting the intake, remove as many of the bolts as you can before attempting to slide it out. Those bolts will get caught on EVERYTHING as you try to remove it.
Thats about it. Take your time, remember everything is plastic. If something feels caught or stuck, it probably is so don't yank.
