jlrz28

iTrader: (7)

Im gonna be installing my Mac Headers soon and wanted to know what kind of header bolts does everybody reccomend? I hear some people use the stock ones over and Ive seen all the aftermarket ones also. In the future I might be doing a head swap and dont want any trouble having to get them off, but dont want to be tighting them all the time either because of leaks. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

98 LPE SS

This is a case where you can't have your cake and eat it too. If you go with stock, there is always a change they could loosen, expecailly if you use anti-seize like most people. If you use Stage 8 bolts, they won't come loose but pulling the C clips off and putting them on in the tight spaces can be a PITA.

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

New Bolts came with My Hooker Longtubes..... I'll just Muscle em with a breaker bar and a torch to get em hot if I need to get them off

98 LPE SS

I am no Hooker expert but I thought that everyone who has then is adament about not using those?

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

I have the Stage 8 bolts. Its a good looking bolt, just DONT use the tab and e-clip. They dont fit tight and the tab (locking mech.) rattles like holy hell. You can imagine 8 little tinny rattles under the hood I just used the bolt. They look good

98 LPE SS

I am surprised you say that. I am using the locks in the Stage 8 Bolts and I have never heard any rattles. I am also runnig a TR224 so there is quite a bit of engine shake but still no rattles. As for the tabs, you can then to lock decently tight if you use the two types of tabs in the right places.

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

I was suprised myself. I tried many ways to use the different tabs they give you, but it rattled like hell. Maybe its just my motor shakes too much

Paul F

iTrader: (2)

Use just a tiny dab of RTV on the locks once you get them on there. It'll take care of any rattles and wont hinder you getting them off, unless you use too much.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Stage8 here...fully installed with locking tabs and clips, no rattles..not that anyone can hear over the exhaust and cam anyways!

98 LPE SS

There is the key. Throw in a good size cam and some 918's and you will never hear the locks over the valve train noise.

IslandTahoe

Has anyone tried the ARP header studs? Anything wrong w/ going that route?

Dodger

I've got the ARP's on my FLP headers, Checked them many times over the past year and not a single one has come loose, and I used Anti-Seize on install too.

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

I use the Stage 8s without the locking tabs on both of my cars also because they look better and don't rust. I tq them to 18 ft lbs with the GM steel gaskets and have never had one come loose.

SLowETz

iTrader: (12)

FWIW....I use an internal hex(Allen)head bolt/lock washer from the local hardware store that work beautifully. Work great where the primaries are close to the head, and no more rounded off heads....no probs in or out, fit tight, don't back out, and don't leak....and CHEAP

TaTommyWS6

Another vote for Stage 8 bolts here. The keys are not that hard to put on at all. (I guess anything seems easy after swapping valvesprings with the the engine in the car!)

Anyway, it is cheap insurance that the bolts will never back out, and you can lube them up with all the antisieze you want for removal time.

Remember to clean out the bolt holes well with a tap before reinstalling. They can be pretty gunked up with old anti-sieze...

Tommy