Header bolts backing out...Locking header bolts or lock washer?
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Header bolts backing out...Locking header bolts or lock washer? Well I bought some used headers and he gave me locking bolts but its just the bolt itself none of the locking stuff. They keep backing out and are leaking...can I just throw some lock washers in between the bolt and header or should I just order some new locking header bolts? If you have tried either of these please let me know your experience and if it helped. Thanks guys!
Lots of your local auto parts houses will sell locking headers bolts as well. I know the Advanced Auto parts up the street from me sells them that fit LS1 heads, cause I've bought a few sets.
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If you go the lock washer route I would highly recommend you use heat-treated stainless steel, else the washers won't hold up for an awfully long time with the heat and rust potential. However, heat-treated stainless hardware isn't very easy to find in your local hardware stores.
Stage 8 locking header bolts are great though. They'll last and will look great forever. We have some in stock if you're interested:
http://marylandspeed.com/stage-8-loc...00-p-1006.html
Stage 8 locking header bolts are great though. They'll last and will look great forever. We have some in stock if you're interested:
http://marylandspeed.com/stage-8-loc...00-p-1006.html
I would go the stud route. It's simple, reliable, and not a bandaid. Bolts sometimes don't fit properly, and they can loosen. The studs should be bullet proof. Be sure to torque them so you know where you start from if you have issues later on.
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I personally would NOT use studs. If you have to ever do any future work on your motor, and have to drop the headers, the studs will make life a mess. I spent a whole f'ing day getting studs out trying to drop the headers when I was doing some motor work on my LS1 Trans Am.
They work well, but I will NEVER use studs again. Just get some regular header bolts, and put a little blue loctite on the threads, and you'll be good to go.
They work well, but I will NEVER use studs again. Just get some regular header bolts, and put a little blue loctite on the threads, and you'll be good to go.
Anti-seize on the studs will save you the grief. You do not need ARP studs. Go to a fastener supplier and you can get studs, nuts and lock washers for about $30. ARP fasteners are great but don't **** away $99 on header studs.
Its a waste of time and effort, just use regular header bolts with some loctite and REALLY save yourself the grief haha. Life will be SOOOO much easier.
This is why building cars is so much fun, there are different ways to do things and everyone has their own preference. Your way may work for you but not the next guy. You like bolts and blue loctite (actually anything on the threads, even RTV would work), that technique takes up the tolerances and lessens the vibration to the threads which helps keep them tight. The stud version is less stressful to the threads in aluminum heads, if a bolt does come loose it will cause damage to the threads by enlarging the hole. I have not seen a stud back out like the bolts tend to do. I have a friend with a V10 Ford with Gibson headers, he used the bolts and had nothing but problems, went to studs and has not had to tighten them of buy a bolt because it fell since. Studs are difficult in soem vehicles but in others there is no issue. As usual, to each their own.
i use stage 8's but no locks they wont do any thing on some of the bolts any ways because the tubes are too far away. get the ones for a ford mod motor they are a bit longer closer to factory length the ones for the ls1 run short (causing them to back out easier) and then you will have 4 extra to use for your air tubes also.
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i dont have air tubes, and i have the old qtps and they have a thinner um (insert name for plate bolts go thru i am drawing a blank right now) because my stock bolts bottomed out and so did ls2 bolts we almost fucked up the threads in a few holes. these were a little shorter and went all the way in just dont stay in and i think its mostly the driver side leaking...
right now im leaning towards backing them out and putting loctite on them...isnt there differnt levels of loctite andy suggestions for this
right now im leaning towards backing them out and putting loctite on them...isnt there differnt levels of loctite andy suggestions for this
For a deal on studs and nuts, go to a Honda dealer. All of their 4 cylinder engines come with 8 mm exhaust studs, and the quality on these is great. They will be about half of the price of the ARP fasteners, and a quality proven OEM part.
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I know you just didn't suggest installing Honda anything on a F-body......
It's bad enough that we have to use a Furd rearend to get reliability, now we have to use Honda parts?
j/k man, the Honda idea is actually pretty good......but.........
is Honda a sponsor?
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i think next weekend im gonna go home and just back them out put some blue loctite on there and maybe some stainless lock washers and see what happens... if that doesnt fix it then ill look at the stage 8's, thanks guys
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I used new GM gaskets and used the bolts that came with the pacesetters.
I also used a flat washer and a lock washer(flat washer on the head first then then the lock washer.
Been running it for about 6 months now with no leaks or bolts backing off.
I rechecked the bolts a couple days after installing the headers and none of them moved.
I also sprayed the heads of the bolts with black rustoleum to prevent rust. 6 months later and still looking new.
I also used a flat washer and a lock washer(flat washer on the head first then then the lock washer.
Been running it for about 6 months now with no leaks or bolts backing off.
I rechecked the bolts a couple days after installing the headers and none of them moved.
I also sprayed the heads of the bolts with black rustoleum to prevent rust. 6 months later and still looking new.